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TurkisM2002

Solex
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About TurkisM2002

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  1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. It’s an e 12 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I have an M10 out of my 73. In need of a rebuild. Make me a fair offer. Located near Denver. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. The fuseable link in my E30 batt cable was blown (not sure how) which is why the car wasn't firing at all (ECU had no power). So I've got a circuit breaker on order coming this Friday. Once that's in I'll be able to test spark and injectors.
  5. Well it's going to one of those days. Now I can't get the car to fire whatsoever - starter engages, engine tries to turnover but not firing. Fuel pump works on its own. I haven't had a chance to track down the cause yet. Time permitting I'll go through spark, fuel, and all the required ECU inputs.
  6. Thanks Jim. I am very familiar with that site bookmarked! I was going to check for spark at each cylinder first then check for injector firing using the screw driver method. Try to narrow down if/which cylinders are dead. I’m hosting a sleepover this weekend for my girls. Sigh. Queue the tequila. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Ignition wires seem to be in the right order. My low res Bentley diagram isn’t very clear. But I have two cracked terminals on the rotor. Doubt that would cause the bad idle. Will definitely replace though. I’ll test the fuel injectors tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I’ll run some tests on the fuel injectors and ignition this weekend and report back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hi everyone, I finally got the M20 in my 2002 to turnover and fire but the idle is very rough and erratic and eventually...eventually engine stalls out. I can't seem to figure out what is causing the extremely rough idle. I have a signal from the CPS (bench test checks out). No vac leaks. Fuel pump is pumping. ICV has been cleaned out and appears to be working just fine. I took a short vid posted on youtube. Any thoughts or ideas before I go replacing spark plugs and wires? TIA
  10. Solved the problem. It was my engine ground. Cable was good but the attachment point on the body (frame rail) didn't seem to be working (resistance too high for some reason). Reattached cable to steering box cover and car started up just fine. And no more sparking. Yay.
  11. Just did some testing in the garage. I checked the grounds and ground continuity: Batt to body Oil pan to body M20B25 engine harness grounds On the M20B25, starter is grounded through the motor All looks well. Starter is now looking suspicious to me, even though prior to the exhaust work the starter would always turn. Per the Bentley manual, you should have at least 8 volts on the solenoid terminal 50 and at least 8 volts on the field-winding strap to the starter when ignition is in START. I have near 12 volts on terminal 50 - so we're good there (ignition switch is good), however I only have 7.4 volts on the field winding strap. If less than 8 volts, Bentley suggests to replace just the solenoid (honestly since I'm in there and I have no knowledge of the health of the starter, I'm going to replace the whole unit). Wondering if a bad solenoid would cause the sparking/arcing that I'm seeing. Attached is a picture of how the starter is wired. The three wires on the 'right' stud are as follows (top to bottom): 1. Alternator - red wire 2. +12v for original 2002 harness (the one with the loose electrical tape) - was connected to battery at front of car 3. +12v from battery Stud on left is the field-winding strap Stud on bottom is the back/yellow wire coming from the ignition switch(terminal 50). I don't know what the stud on the top is for. I've read that on 88 and later E30s there was an 'additional wire.' I think I recall this motor coming out of an 87 325i.
  12. Yes I recall that's how it was setup when I had the M10 in the car. Now with the M20 in the car, battery is in the trunk. I think starter body to engine is by design on that car. But I could be wrong. I'll have something to report in about an hour or two.
  13. Yes this issue occurred only after the exhaust work. I'm not blaming the exhaust shop ... but stuff does get bumped around and my car is indeed a work in progress (stripped save for the motor and electrical), so possible something got knocked loose.
  14. Yes, forgot to mention the obvious batt terminal to body ground as well. Would a missing ground cause arcing/sparking between what looks like the starter/bell housing and the firewall? I'll double check all the grounds.


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