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About Cartorious

  • Birthday 04/24/1998

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  1. Cartorious


  2. Thanks again, running strong. new first step when car won't start is to test the battery HAHA
  3. Threw away the cheap alarm... Good thinking to pull coil wire. I will probably use this in Portland, or detach the small wire to starter solenoid (however that allows for hillstart still)
  4. damn, 4.71 volts... What address are these poptarts heading too? (all I have is brown sugar sorry)
  5. Above is picture of open terminal I found on engine... I'm not sure if this is related? Thank you, I will take in battery to the Schwab tomorrow and get it replaced as it is under warranty
  6. Not dead, lights, alarm, and stereo work after charging the battery... I think it may be the alarm switch as it is constantly triggered (it thinks the car is being broken into) and that may prevent the ignition signal from reaching the starter? I should add that when trying to hill-start the car, the car would not start.
  7. When I turn the key, the ignition light comes on (red) but all I here is 6 quick "clicks" and then the red light fades. I cannot get the car to repeat the "clicks" for at least 2 minutes after first hearing them. I have a 1975 2002 with Petronix ignition installed. It is 32 degrees here right now in Oregon, but I keep my car in a garage at 45 degrees. I have started and driven my car without fail every day for the last week. Last night the hazards switch (damn thing) engaged itself and killed my battery completely overnight. I fixed the hazard switch and have tried jumping my car, but with no luck. The alarm system is on the fritz, which may be a factor.. I don't know. Thanks, -Carter EDIT: I should add that when trying to hill-start the car, the car would not start.
  8. Understood... I had a mechanic look at it very briefly an hour ago who suspected the motor mounts needed replacing as the engine was able to be rocked back and forth by him when the car was off (I guess this is a bad thing). I'll order new rubber mounts as soon as next payday and use the 4x4 ratchet method to lift the engine and install them myself. I will look for the subframe crack tomorrow. Thank you everyone for the help.
  9. This is interesting that you say that... I remember that around the time thid started happening I tightened the nuts on the E-Brake cords A LOT. Could that be what's causing this?
  10. Obligatory apology if this is the wrong location to post asking for help, also if this description is too "vague" etc... I have what I believe to be a transmissiom problem with my Daily Driver '75 02. Inside is a 5-speed manual transmission swapped in a long time ago from another BMW (I believe it is the ususal one that is used for these kinds of swaps) As soon as the clutch is quarter engaged (as I am enetering a gear, shifting UP), the clutch seems to Fully Engage, and send the car into an "overdrive" mode (Car accelerates quicker than usual). Interesting things to note: - This only happens in 1st or 2nd gear - As soon as I stop accelerating, the car ends overdrive mode, lurches forward and performs as normal (with a violent shake that rattles the whole car). - If I am careful to let out the clutch EXTREMELY SLOWLY, the problem Rarely occurs -The shaking is so violent it actually tore through the upper radiator hose on one incident -Shifting DOWN into either gear (remember, only happens on 1st and 2nd) The problem does not occur. I honestly have no idea what is going on with my car. This has been a problem for 1 month as of now, am afraid to take it in because of possoble high cost to repair. THANK YOU -Carter
  11. Engine started knocking and repairing the headgasket will cost $1500 On a teenager's budget, I figured I'd just pay more for an engine swap now since it should only be about 2-4k more... I'd love some options on the cheapest engines I can throw into my car that are newer than the m10 I'll be taking out. I understand a 318 is a good option, but is there a more cost effective engine swap? I purchased the car for 4500 and have sunk another 3500 into it. I'm thinking I could sell it for around 5000 as is, but that would be taking a huge loss. Repairing the headgasket and selling it would also be taking a loss. I really don't want to sell the car, but I will if the cheapest engine swap runs around 5 grand. ANY ideas are welcome Thank you.
  12. I've taken off my Wiper Blade Arm, and the round Gear that fits on the spindle in this picture seems to be stripped on the inside of this outer-gear that fits on the spindle. -Does this gear come off the Spindle, and if so how? Also is there a place to order a replacement piece? I need to know soon as I live in a rainy area and cannot drive without this wiper blade functioning. Thanks, -Carter P.S. it's a 1975 BMW 2002
  13. Thanks this is probably what I'll end up doing as I can't afford parts+labor for an entire new Nose. Like you guessed it's just the bottom piece of the thing that's the problem. The cuts won't make a difference either if I were to just replace the bottom portion because I plan on installing an Air Dam of some-kind later on. Thanks, -Carter
  14. Yes I am willing to wait however long it takes! How much for parts and postage? Thanks, -Carter
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