FB73tii

when I had the battery in front I used a cheap tie down kit from an auto parts store. It has two long J-hooks and a metal strap across the top of the battry. Here's an image I found on the web. Here's what I have now, welded to the floor pan behind the passenger seat. I used different bolts than shown here.

All of the above sugestions plus heat. I use a MAPP gas torch to heat the nut. That plus a vice, ground-down wrench, and a mallet. Mine was very difficult to remove recently.

Quote Geez, you guys are tough! How about if I cheese-hole my subframes to make of for my weight transgression? Maybe I can take some weight out of the block and diff housing as well..... I know, I'll just fill the car with helium balloons

I did my entire car body in POR-15 as an undercoating.....Cuz Racecar! (but the diff is still bare ) --Fred

Need more info. Are they talking about a bump stop? If you have stock springs, IRRC there is no rubber associated with the springs, they are under compression and already have metal to metal contact. Or are they cut in length, so perhaps the plastic hose idea will work. Another reason for clunking shocks is that the strut gland nut has come loose, so the shock is free to move up and down within the strut. Worn heim joints also cause a clunk, but only if you have solid adjustable camber plates. I am with Toby and the others. A shop should say "we fixed this for you", not "here's your car, and by the way, there is still a problem"...... Fred

I don't worry about the exposed metal. If you paint it then it is difficult to scrape the gasket surface clean without getting into the paint next time you open the diff.

Check stub shafts for worn splines. We had a thread on this recently.

OP said flywheel magnet not working so trying the distributor instead. I had the same question as ar_kid, why not do crankfire? BTW, cool project. I am curious which Haltech is being used. My engine project will use a Haltech PS1000 with crankfire and additional magnet/sensor on cam wheel for full sequential injection. --Fred

The air will be blown right out by the ~600psi fuel from the KF pump. No need to prime--at least I never have. --Fred

The rear studs press in from the back of the flange. If you have drum brakes there is no way this would work. If you have disk brakes perhaps, but it would be tight and you need a lot of force to press the studs in and out. Still might not clear. Since you just had the rear flanges off it should not be as hard to pull them as the first time. --Fred

Hey that's a great tip. Did a quick search, here are relevant part numbers and online BMW prices: OIL PUMP HOUSING 11411267199 $51.36 INTERMEDIATE PLATE 11411263218 $4.75

Francesco--welcome to forum and your soon-to-be 2002. As with all old cars, rust is the main area of concern. We have had a number of good posts on what to look for, and books to read about this that someone else can post. Here's an article from the FAQ to get you started: Tips on buying a 2002 http://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/_/technical-articles/history-and-reference/2002-buying-tips-how-to-find-a-good-one-r65 Tire fitment depends on many things, including front camber and how far the car is lowered. The rear will take a 205/50/15 generally without issue, though this can vary between tires manufacturers (assuming a 15x7 25mm offset wheel). On my cars the clearance has been paper thin, but no rub. As the rear of the car is lowered the camber becomes more negative, which helps keep the top of the tire away from the fender lip. Unless of course you do an adjustable rear subframe and stand the tire up a bit, but it sounds like you are not there yet. The front is tighter, and a 205/50/15 will likely not work without some massaging of the fenders, even if you have offset such that the inner wall of the tire is very close to the strut. I ran 195/50/14's for years with no issues, but 14" rims are less plentifull than 15" rims these days. I think I used to run 205/60/13's, but that was years ago and I can't be sure. --Fred

+3 on the grill. Also looks like it may be a new-style BMW Roundel on the hood. Not quite correct for an "exotic classic" Finally, if zoom in looks like there may be a rust bubble above the upper-rightmost kidney grill screw, though that may just be a defect in the photo. And the sway bar link bolt is sticking way down. I now use heim joint links, but as I recall I think I installed those stock links with the bolt head at the bottom and spare threads at the top for clearance purposes.

The fine 10x1mm threads are very sensitive to angle when beginning the thread them in. The fitting needs to be perfectly square on the hole or the threads won't catch. Just a little sideways pressure or misalignment is enough to make them not catch. One of those things that is easy to do when you have good access and can see everything, but can be difficult when you are reaching in at an awkward angle and/or doing it blind. I've had similar issues trying to get the front strut gland nut catch when it has come loose on the car. Since I have coilovers once I raise the car I can reach in with a pipe wrench or big channel-lock to tighten the nut. Sometimes I can get it to catch, but just recently I couldn't and thought it might be stripped. Pulled out the strut--the threads were slightly damaged but once I got the right angle it went on fine. --Fred

Hmm, that sounds a little kinky But you asked, so here you go....

Ray, you just do not have enough power and grip to need a rear strut brace!

Using a descriptive title is important for targeted help (as mentioned above), but often people new to discussion lists do not realize this. Having followed jeeperjack's posts, I knew who this was and that there was an actual substantial question here. Otherwise I would not have bothered to read the initial post. Still not quite clear on names, nice when people use them. Backstory on the car is here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/151044-schnitzer-head/ Not a mind reader but getting beter at it --Fred

What did the temp gauge read when this occured? Did you check the radiator water level after this happened? If there was no water in the system the heater would not work, and the temp gauge would not read correctly as it would not be in contact with water, and the engine would not run well as it would be (way) too hot. It is best to check a new thermostat before installing. Every once in a while they will be bad from the factory. I had this happen once.

Question is in the right place. It just helps to use a descriptive subject line in the title of a new topic. For example, "brake caliper spacers?" As has been pointed out above, the spacers are used to move the caliper halves apart for use with vented rotors. "2002tii" calipers" can be made into E12 "528i" calipers by addition of the spacers, though as far as I know they are not available as a separate part. While most people say never split the calipers, I have and if this is done, just don't lose the little O-rings between the spacers and caliper halves. Hope your project is going well--Fred

If'n it's still a tii it has no carb, but then you knew that IMHO a large K&N filter is fine, I ran one for years. But if you search you will see no one has shown any HP difference. If you need originality you can buy a stock 2002tii air filter housing. Welcome to the club! --Fred

I've never needed to remove any runners. Just judicious use of two long screwdrivers, possibly a long needle-nosed plier and some swearing. It takes some fiddling to get enough force on the hose to push it over the nipple, then align the hose clamp and hold in place while tightening. --FB

My local machine shop rents out his timesert kit for about $10. If you take the block to a shop it should not be too expensive to get those stripped hoes repaired. --FB

Good link. Seen Penske referenced but never used it. What is cool is they give component weights as well. Won't help you balance an engine, but will answer questions like "how much does an engine/transmission/etc...weigh?) --FB

In some cases the same part is shown on multiple diagrams, but only numbered and listed on one of them. In other cases, if the part is numbered but not listed, it is so NLA REALOEM does not bother to list it. I can sometimes find these part numbers by going to BMW dealer websites and finding the same diagram. They will often list the part number, even if NLA. Them you can begin to cross-reference to find replacement parts. In this case, perhaps someone on the FAQ has already found the solution to this particular issue. --Fred

You can poke around on REALOEM to get a sense of what gaskets and crush rings are needed and what the part numbers are. Here's a link to one of the relevant engine diagrams: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=2215&mospid=47140&hg=11&fg=10 There are gasket "kits" that contain most things, but often leave out the oil filter housing and distributor cover gaskets. As with similar questions, this has been discussed before. Here's a list of both individual parts and one kit. I think there is also a head gasket "kit". Most people would never replace some of these parts, mainly the large coolant plug crush rings. Description Qty Part No. -------------- ----- ---------- distributor cover gasket 1 12111734032 Exhaust manifold gasket with heat shield 1 11621723876 Front crank seal 1 11141709629 Intake Manifold Gaskets 3 11611727994 Intake Manifold Gasket-Water neck 1 11611727995 lower timing cover gasket [L] 1 11141727981 lower timing cover gasket [R] 1 11141727980 oil filter housing gasket 1 11421312607 oil pan gasket 1 11131727974 rear seal (90 X 110 X 12) 1 11142249533 rear seal housing gasket 1 11141727975 Stock Head Gasket (1.80 mm) 1 11121734280 Timing Case Gasket and Seal Set (inc. M10 front seal) 1 11141727986 upper timing cover gasket [L] 1 11141727979 upper timing cover gasket [R] 1 11141727978 valve cover gasket 1 11121734276 water pump gasket 1 11511727977 Oil pump O-rings 2 11411250421 Block coolant plug crush washer (A14X18-AL) 1 07119963200 Block oil galley crush washer - OPTION #1 (A12X15.5 AL) 1 07119963130 Block oil galley crush washer - OPTION #2 (A14X18-AL) 1 07119963200 Block driver side crush washer (A10X13.5-AL) 1 07119963073 Head coolant plug crush washer (A30X36-AL) 1 07119963466 Block coolant plug crush washer (A30X36-AL) 1 07119963466 Heater Hose crush ring, small (A22X27-AL) 1 07119963355 Heater Hose crush ring, large (A36X42-AL) 1 07119963467 distributor O-ring 1 12118530508 Distributor housing crush washer 1 12110002735 Timing Chain tensioner crush washer (A22X27-AL) 1 07119963355 Oil drain plug crush washer (A12X17-CU) option 07119963151 Oil drain plug crush washer (A22X27-AL) 1 07119963355 Oil filler cap gasket (38.5 x 59 x 2.5) 1 1020180380 The only part #'s I don't have are the oil pressure sender crush washer and mechanical fuel pump gasket. Everyone has thier favorite parts source. I find good prices and availablity at RM European, but I shop around quite a bit and use at least a dozen sources for my parts. From my experience most brands of gaskets work fine--Elring, Felpro, Victor Reinz, etc. --Fred