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Found 69 results

  1. Here is a 3.45 LSD for a E9, E3, E12. It's stamped 11 38 on the side - indicating 3.45 ratio. S40 is stamped on the inside. "S" stamp on the case is very faint but is in the photos. It's heavy - so shipping will be tough, but I am willing to ship at buyers expense. I will also drive to meet within a reasonable distance. I've also got this listed on eBay if anyone would rather deal there. 800 OBO
  2. Name that part! Let's see what parts you know? More amazing progress with Tesoro! He's coming together so well! Love the attention to detail and quality of work from 2002garagewerks! Check out the nuts and bolts ! They truly look like gold treasures on Tesoro!!
  3. Tools: Small Hacksaw (Junior Hacksaw @ Homedepot) Hammer Large flat-tip screwdriver or Chisel Overall this took me about 10 minutes once I finally got started. First remove the blade from the hacksaw and push it through the open section at the bottom of one of the hanger bushings. If you can not get it through on its own, a sharp knife should help. Next reassemble the hacksaw with the blade through the bushing. Now use the hacksaw to make some room by cutting the bottom nub of the bushing out. Next stabilize the diff hanger in a vice or by other means and begin to cut through the rubber and the steel outer sleeve making a notch that is almost all the way through (See Picture). Grab your hammer and chisel and bend in the outer sleeve as show in the picture. This will probably take three of four hits before the thin steel of the outer sleeve tears and the bushing falls out.
  4. Thought I'd post a quick update. I finished up the wiring, built a relay bank, which is mounted in the trunk where the battery will go, and, finally, finished up the exhaust. Wiring mess. Thankfully, one night when it actually rained here, I went through the entire wiring harness, labelled everything, and removed some questionable additions and kill switches added by the previous owner. This mess has to get through two small holes on the driver's side firewall. Relay bank I built with Hella waterproof relays. The two right side relays are Derale relays that I am using for the fuel pump and fan. Both are ground triggered by the ECU / ECM. The Derale relays incorporate a blocking diode specifically for ground triggers by the ECM. The diode prevents amperage spikes traveling back to the ECM that can occur during motor dwell. I eventually added inline fuses to all ECM relays. From Left to right FAN, Fuel Pump, Hi-Beam, Low-Beam, 12v constant trigger by Position 3 on the ignition switch, ignition switch 12v input for coils, ignition switched 12v input for cams, vanos and air valve, and ignition switched 12v input for injectors. Mounted in the trunk. My plan was to use a distribution block from a e39 BMW, but mini fuses are surprisingly difficult to find, especially in low amperage. So, I created positive bus bar and went with the original circuit breaker bank, and added a negative ground block just behind the strut bar. 20 amp for the ECM wiring and 30 amp for the fan and fuel pump. I did add inline fuses with lower amperage for the ECM relays. Engine wiring mess. Random shots of me figuring out stuff. I have cleaned up most of the wiring with friction tape and will soon add some wiring loom tubing to give it a nice look. Engine bay and ECM in place. I wanted to mount the the computer inside the cabin, but the loom was just too short. Stupid brake fluid reservoir keeps breaking off. You'll notice I mounted and expansion tank where the washer reservoir goes. It's from a Volvo. I was going to us a Mercedes tank, but the Volvo's was more compact and only has one inlet and outlet. The washer reservoir tucked up and under the cowl is from an e36. I just wired it into the original loom. another shot. And a shot of the ECM in its home. Picture's a little blown out. I'll clean up all that wiring this weekend. On to the rear end. Order a 4.10 LSD medium case for an e30. It may be too low a ratio, but I can always swap the 3.73 from my e30 if this doesn't play well on the highway. Cleaned up and rebuilt the differential. New seals and all. On to the subframe and the sway bar mounts. Originally, I had tack welded the mounts to have the sway bar go over the top of the trailing arms, but the bar interfered with the driveshaft. Mounts I fabricated. Close up of mounts. With camber adjusters welded in place. Yes, I am wearing socks with mandals, cause it's comfy. Full frontal. Wide. The rear suspension is hung. There is a bracket to swap out the rear solid discs for e36 vented, but I'll worry about that later. I rebuilt the calipers before installing Another angle. The subframe, differential, trailing arms, sway bar, and half shafts mounted. I rebuilt all the brake lines on the trailing arms as well. You will notice that this picture of the trailing arms has the shock mounted in double shear. It is also gusseted to add strength. Shot from rear of driver's side suspension arm and shock. The shocks are Koni adjustable dampers with Eibach springs. If the sway bar ends up hanging too low once the car is on the ground, I will affix it to the chassis, like an e30. The trailing arms are sitting much lower than they'll be sitting at ride height. Another shot. Finally, the exhaust fully tig welded being protected by my guard dog, Preston. All mandrel bent 304 stainless. Flat section is the subframe underpass. 1.5"x6" and has more volume than the twin 2.5 tube. I built it full flow with no restrictions. Going in the car on Saturday if the weather isn't disgustingly windy. Tomorrow, I am going to the pull-a-part to get the firewall mounted throttle bell crank and gas pedal out of an e30 (it had better still be there) and get ride of the stupid throttle arm, which keeps slipping. I made one with a clamping collar, like other members have done, but it still slips. Going to fix this problem once and for all. Headliner and windows will go in next week, and I plan to fire the engine. That's all for now.
  5. This is my first update in a long while and I thought I would provide some backstory on what has been happening with the project. I new that the stock diff. would not hold up to the power of the S54, so I decided to use and e36 diff carrier and swap in a e36 diff 3.91 LSD. In retrospect, it would have been easier and probably more swap friendly just to modify the e30 subframe to fit into the car. If this turns out to be a turd or starts dog-tailing on me, I will just swap in the e30 rear end. Next I welded the e36 diff carrier to the stock 2002 rear subframe with plenty of gussets and reinforcing plates. You might notice that the trailing arms from and e30/e36 compact. I used those to get the 5 lug conversion and rear disc brakes to match the front. And, the end result... However, I would end up making even more adjustments. I welded on some tabs in similar locations to the original trailing arms to accept the Ireland sway bar. IMG_2735.CR2 IMG_2736.CR2 IMG_2737.CR2
  6. Last Monday we had a late spring ice storm - the up side is power went out at work so I got a few extra hours in the garage. I was able to open up my dif, add a seal and fill it up with fresh fluid... Made a new vid:
  7. This thing flies when you floor it and with the 4.11 diff. it leaves new cars way behind but ... i think i do 4mpg ... lol I replaced the one barel pdsi solex that i had from a 2002 engine cause the jets were not matching and made a mess somehow ... The engine is smooth, idle is perfect , it only drinks too much ... , maybe the electric fuel pump has anything to do with it or it's just the wrong jets ? 32 liters - 117 km ...
  8. This is a bunch of malarkey! So….I grabbed a Stage 1 Kit from Ireland Engineering to kick my suspension refurbish off. Easy day, right? I’m a bit of a safety hound hence the 3 ton jack stands and stacked tires under the 1600. I get frequent visits from my 3 & 5 year old daughters. They always want to see what daddy is doing with his “race car”. Basically, I just started with ripping everything off after it was on the stands. Believe it or not, the part that took me a considerable amount of time was the old brake shoes. Those darn springs were giving me fits! Must go discs out back! One of my adjustment "nut" thingy's was pretty much stripped. Pseudo success! I had originally planned to go onto the military installation to sand blast as much as I could but I was horribly informed that they no longer support a sand blasting station. Dang it! Malarkey, I tell ya'! Sooo.... One idea was to break out the pressure washer and put unsuspecting friends to work in the back yard! ^The pressure washer worked amazingly well in the hands of BMW hoarder, Brooklyn Taylor! (This coming from the guy who was nice and dry....while, eating a peanut butter and jelly sandwich...) Brooklyn owns one of the only 6 speed manual equipped 850i's that I've seen in real life. V12 baby! VROOOOM. So I was left with a bunch of rusty parts with no sand blaster. Time to break out the grinder: I figured since he had so much horsepower, why not put a grinder in his hand while I got to work on something else! Probably should have covered the 70 Mustang.... Yes, it was covered in dust. More malarkey. Look what showed up! It came with a grinding wheel, but a quick trip to Lowe's rectified that with a 8" wire wheel. Priceless! After the wire wheel on the calipers, I started noticing weird things....like *different calipers* and *different brake pads*... *scratches head, moves on* Malarkey.... Rear drums were painted with engine paint. So were the calipers. Don't know how long that will hold up to the heat, but at least the brake fluid won't strip the paint! Onto the rear sub frame! FIRE!!! There's nothing like the smell of burnt rubber! More bushings.... A couple of relief cuts to release pressure so that I could use a hammer and chisel to knock these out. Paint! I did not use POR 15, rather, a good ole' can of Rustoleum. This is *not* huge resto. I just want to get the car well sorted for daily use. Rattle can will do just fine. Now let's put this thing together! Okay. In putting this thing together, I noticed that the bushings were different sizes on the ends. Basically, the thicker bushings go on the outside of the arms. So, I had to learn the hard way that these urethane bushings go in a "specific way". They are different sizes as you can see in the picture. Thick goes on the outside. Don't forget to grease these things as well! Another road block: I had to cut this little gusset down so that my bushings would actually fit. No problem! I was just shocked when I saw it. Here another thing. When I got these nice little sub-frame bushing stiffeners, they wouldn't slide through. If this happens, just take your wife's best steak knife and cut through the little membrane-like rubber mold to allow them to fit through. More paint... Half Shafts are "sooo" like late 60's early 70's... Due to this, I had to do basic maintenance. I like to keep this little bottle around...it's just easier to use for small jobs like this. No, this is not actually Craftsman oil going into my half shafts...These will be replaced with CV shafts... Grice? Where are you? Had to bend a few lines: Before: After: Somehow I can never make mine as pretty as the old lines. Wonder how long this is going to look like this! LOL Moving over to the front! Same basic stuff, bushings, but no shocks. Didn't feel I needed to spend another $200 for billys'. Not a lot of pictures... First off, I would not try to put the LCA on without an impact. :-) That bolt on the ball joint just spins and spins. Don't forget to pack it with a bunch of goo... Another issue I had when I put it back on was the new grade 5 bolts I had was rubbing the LCA. Couldn't have that so I went back to the old bolt in the inside location and just safety wired it. When the suspension compresses, there were no more issues. Much better! Actually, there were issues. Soooo, I screwed up. I painted the old shock tube with the shock in it. I taped everything up pretty well and it look really good when i finished. Problem is, I left a piece of tape on the shock cylinder.... You guessed it, the tape went into the shock body when I unintentionally compressed it and dorked up the seal. Replacement... *sigh* Things were just touch and go with getting this thing back together at this point.... Guess I over did it a little on the tranny fluid. (I never feel comfortable using the word "tranny"). Just saying. Next issue: Completely forgot to attach my springs with safety wire. Please do this "BEFORE" you put your stuff back together with shorter springs... DANGIT! Okay. Sometimes you just have to stop for the day, pop some popcorn and watch an episode of Game of Thrones. Another helpful tid bit: Tape to locate the spring while you are lowering it down. Oh one, more thing. My top spring perches were so worn that I had to add spacers at the top to keep the perch from rubbing. If I ever upgrade to coilovers, I won't have this problem. Maybe in the future. It's only money, right? I'll stop this here. I'm sure I'm missing some things. Please let me know if you have any questions? Cheers, Tim
  9. I would like to put an LSD in my car but they are hard to find. Is there another newer model bmw that I can take one out of, or are the casings for the open and LSD the same and I could maybe gut my open dif and install the LSD components in it. thanks (edit: my car has the long differential since it is a 68')
  10. I have a 4.11 open long neck differential. When I purchased my 2002 project car an extra diff came with the car which the prior own was going to put in. However, I’m doing a big swap and won’t need this. I opened the rear cover to confirm 4.11 and non-LSD so it will need a new gasket. Markings on the ring gear suggest is has been rebuilt at some point. Gears move smoothly. Let me know if you want to check it out.
  11. I traded one of our forum members for this 3.91 LSD. I am doing a tribute tii with my 69'. In going through the crate with the tii motor and 5-speed I purchased I realized it came with a 3.91 LSD as well. Don't need two so thought I would put this one out there in hopes someone can use it. I am selling for exactly want I have into it which is $950.00 and shipping will be whatever it cost to send to you. text 858-208-8449 or email [email protected] is best way to reach me.
  12. Anybody have a recommendation on a Diff Specialist in Vancouver BC? I have a guy at a transmission shop that will do the work, but he seems kinda vague on his experience in these matters. Thanks P.S I love Rick, but he is under the weather lately.
  13. 1974 tii with (probably) the original diff. I have the rear end is out and the diff is isolated. Prior to removal there were no unusual sounds associated with the diff and it's performance was good on long trips and when driven with spirit. When the input flange is turned by hand: smooth, tight, even motion is felt as the flange is turned. When either output flange is turned by hand: not as smooth and as even motion; can feel very, very slight or loose "bumps", "clicks", "skips" or other non-smooth "feelings" as the flanges are turned. Hard to explain - as if the movement is uneven and there are occasional rough spots in a gear. Seems such movement should be smooth. I plan to remove the rear diff cover to replace the gasket and will take a look-see inside. Any thoughts/suggestions from you diff experts re: the above? My descriptions sound like a good diff or odd to you? Anything I should check or test? Larry
  14. PO was not sure whether the diff in my 1975 is original and/or a limited slip. Is there any way to tell from the attached pix? Also, how do I verify it's a limited slip? Thanks! JMc
  15. So I have a LSD out of an E21 that I'm putting into my '73 and I was told to use my 2002 diff flanges with the E21 diff. Everything fits well enough together (using IE spacers) . But it's interesting, my 2002 diff flanges don't have any holes for a securing bolt. Is that right? Every manual I've seen shows the flanges are secured with an M12 bolt through the middle. I don't know whether to be concerned or not since I drove the car with the original diff and no issues of course. Should I put threadlocker on the splines? Also don't know if there should be a lock ring as well where the groove is just above the splines. TIA C
  16. Had not seen full “how to” for diff swap, so here you go. Simple job. Well, simple on a car that gets its diff swapped a lot. No promises on a diff that has been in a car for 40 years… What you need: A diff Two 17mm combo wrenches 17mm socket 19mm combo wrench 19mm socket 17mm socket 6mm hex socket (for 2002 cv joints) 8mm hex socket (if you have 320 cv joints) Jack stands Jack First, get the car up on jackstands. Remove muffler Lock e-brake and put car in gear Loosen the 4 nuts connecting drive shaft to diff (17mm). you will need to get at them from the right side of diff and will have to rotate the drive shaft and re-lock once. Loosen the 24 hex bolts that hold the half shafts to the diff and wheel hubs. 6mm hex for 2002 cv joints, 8mm hex for 320i joints. You could get away with just doing the inner ones, but gives you more room to work if you just take them all the way out. Creative use of a combo wrench applied to a short hex key if that is all you have. Or use hex socket and drive Halfshafts out. Good time to check cv joints and refresh if needed. Now get a jack under the subframe to support it. without the diff attached, the subframe will sag. Not good for the mounts. Remove hanger bracket. I just a tranny jack under the diff to support. Or you can have a buddy bench press it. 17mm combo wrenches on the bracket, 17mm socket on the nuts holding diff to bracket. remove the 4 bolts holding the diff to the subframe. 19mm combo wrench on top, 19mm socket on bottom. impact gun is wonderfull thing here. Lower back of diff first. When clear of tank, slide out. If swapping in a 320 3.91, you will need to use the 2002 diff cover. Good time to check the innards and reseal the cover anyway. Remove cover with 17mm socket and scrape the old gasket/goo off cover and diff. Bmw specifies a paper gasket on the cover, but I have never used one in the dozens of diff covers I have sealed. Never had a leak. I use permatex ultra black sealant instead. Apply a bead around diff Replace cover gently. Screw bolts in until just snug by hand. You should see just a little ultra black ooze out. Let diff sit for an hour or two for goo to set. Once goo has set, torque cover to 32ftlbs. Get new crush seals for fill and drain plugs….these are on use items. Do not reuse. Now is the good time to refill the diff with oil. I use redline 75w90 for street diffs. Redlilne lightweight shockproof oil for track diffs. Assembly is reverse of the above process…..but when I put mine back together I will add detail to this. the oils.. much easier to fill diff like this than when it is in the car. takes 1.1 qts fill to here diff plugs get 41ftlbs installed
  17. Price:: 600 Location: : San Fernando, CA This differential and transmission came out of my 73' 2002 tii. I believe the ratio is 3.64:1. Work fine. Did a gear test the other day I have the drive shaft as well. If you have questions, please ask.
  18. Wanting: e30 differential, 188 mm, medium case, Limited Slip, 4.10 final ratio preferred.
  19. I am looking for an E21 *6-bolt* diff (to use the case) or just the case AND an E36 LSD (to use the "pumpkin"/internals) I am planning to build an E21 diff with E36 internals for my 2002. Thanks, Rich
  20. I am looking for a rear cover for my differential. Please message me with a price shipped to Ohio. TIA Chris N
  21. I'm a 17 year old kid and I have fallen in love with these cars. I found a 1969 sitting in a building and bought it for $1200, now I'm in the process of restoring it and have found out that it needs a differential. Doing some research online and on this forum a bought an e36 lsd to swap into my car not realizing that I needed a different stock differential. My VIN is 1663286 and my title says its a 1969. another post on the forum said that a later subframe can be swapped but that includes a new differential case as well. Is there any thing that I can do to make this differential fit in my car? Thanks in advance, Chris N
  22. Looking for a good condition short neck diff that will fit in my 1974 '02, any ratio is fine. I'm in NW Montana, so more than willing to pay cost associated with shipping including time. Thanks.
  23. Picked up a set of 3:45 ratio rear end gears, since I was looking for a set years ago when I had my 320 LSD rebuilt and at that time switch out the 3.91 ratio gears with my 74's 3.64 gears. I did use the LSD with the 3.91 ratio, and did not like the shift points running around town, which has been 98% of my driving. The 3.45 would be about 5% lower RPMs across the board, and would "slow" the car down some, but could be a decent poor man's over-drive. Or couple it with a 5 speed OD too ? Could be the interstate cruiser !
  24. Hey Folks, I had an incident happen this weekend that leaves me in need of either a long neck differential and rear drive shaft section, or just the 3 ear diff input flange and rear drive shaft section (my diff still functions fine). I might also be interested in a later style diff and rear sub-frame instead. I might even be interested in a universal joint input flange. Also wondering who the NK people are in the Chicago area? Thanks for any help on this! Doug-


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