Themis

Looking for 2-3 heater box clips like those:

( The hack mechanic left a response to my post !!! Then, acting casual, in a calm voice: ) Thank you Rob!

Good work Barrett! Obviously, I didn't research carefully enough - I remember the high shipping cost made me procrastinate in this (hard to swallow), but in the end I bit the bullet and ordered it, having found no cheaper alternative

Thanks for the positive feedback all. Regarding the expansion valve, I have seen the I.C.E air system, and that is the exact valve their system uses, set up for R134a

Step 1. Disassemble the box In my case, the motor was dead, the valve was stuck, and the fan switch / thermostat was rusty. So, only the box sides and the core could be reused. Checking the core is a good idea, to make sure it does not leak. Make sure the threads of the core are in good shape. Step 2. New insulation around core Many materials can be used for this purpose, I went with this guy. I’ve used it before for refurbishing my heater box with good results. I cut several pieces and covered the core as seen in the photos. Dry fitted the core in the box, to make sure of a snug fit. Step 3. Filter at output My box had a disintegrated filter at the output, which resulted in bits and dust being blown at the occupants whenever it was turned on. I used a vent filter, cut to size and secured on the core with those plastic-covered wires. Step 4. Screw back the box Used stainless steel screws secured with threadlocker. Do not forget the resistor block (secured with screws from the inside of the box. For the two brackets on the top of the evaporator, I used rivets to secure them on the box. Step 5. New evaporator expansion valve The correct type is EX-9404C, which I got from UAC. Thread it carefully to the core inlet / outlet. From the radiator shop that cleaned and tested the A/C, I got for free a strip of sticky tar stripe (I do not know its technical name). This is used to insulate the area between the expansion valve and the box. Step 6. Installing a new blower motor The correct blower motor is the DCM D-001-435. At the time I bought it, the best deal I could find online was at Trucker AC (truckerac.com). It was $64.00, plus $24.00 shipping. In the original Clardy assembly, the motor is held in its cage with two metal parts: a circular flange bracket, and a tripod clamp. These are really cheaply made, thin and flexy. By the time I removed the rust and painted mine with POR-15, they were even thinner and flexier. I actually assembled the box with this setup, but I was dissatisfied with the end result so I went back and removed the bracket altogether. Luckily, a much beefier attachment bracket is available from the manufacturer of the motor’s housing and fan. The manufacturer is American Plasti-Plate in Tyler, TX. Previous information on the forum indicated that this company does not sell parts retail; however, I was not able to find the parts I was looking for at any other dealer / supplier. I called American Plasti-Plate directly (903-8947281) and spoke with Tony (or Donny?). He was extremely helpful, and he put in the mail next day the parts I needed! The parts are: Blower housing BH-4500 with flange ABS blower wheel with clip #28-01716 (this part is also available at ACkits.com) Motor Mount MM 4.5. This motor mount comes with rubber grommets where it attaches at the motor housing Step 7. Final assembly The motor housing was riveted on the box, for strength. Then, the motor mount was screwed on the housing. The wheel fan is then attached to the motor shaft and secured with a clip. Finally, the fan housing plastic vent circular piece is screwed on the wheel side. For this last piece, I do not recall if it was part of the housing, or if the good guy at American Plasti-Plate included it for free. It’s a good idea to power the motor at this point, to make sure the wheel doesn’t rub anywhere. Step 7. Sealing the box Seal all around the seam of the box with silicone. I used VersaChem Mega Black RTV silicone Step 8. Front panel controls For the front panel, I bought a new switch and thermostat, along with their knobs. It is surprising these parts are still made (and very cheap). They were bought from Nostalgic AC Parts (nostalgicac.com). The prices below are circa 2017. - Part# 119-9908 Rotary Blower Fan Switch $9.99 - Part# 119-9921-18 Rotary Thermostat 18 Inch Capillary Probe $19.99 - Part# 1011 Blower Switch Knob $3.99 Part# 1012 Rotary Thermostat Knob $3.99