FB73tii

Glad you got it fixed! Make sure that the speedo gear assembly did not pop out of the trans and go hide somewhere. I once put in a trans without the speedo cable (no speedo, cuz racecar) and eventually the speedo gear assembly fell out of the trans and it puked fluid. I thought "I must have a hole in the trans case" and I did! I bought an expandable rubber plug to fill the hole. --Fred

Mark--your refurbished slide throttle looks great. Very nice custom work to bring it back to form. Don't feel bad about the 1.5 years to get it done, the new slide I had built took four years, with several stretches of 6+ months with no word from the builder. A real exercise in zen for me, but worth the wait. Thanks for publishing your throttle plate spec of 48.55mm. Mine are 47 mm and I was worried they might be too large, but I did find reference to 48mm for some S14 slides. --Fred

Great tip! Anything similar that fits a standard 2002 bracket (or 318 bracket, which is about 1/4" wider than the 2002 bracket)? I've been thinking about getting a mini-Denso one-wire, but have not gotten around to it. Depending on the type and source they are also not cheap! --Fred

There was another thread on this recently. I don't know if it is "common" but several people (including myself) run normal 2002 alternators with the tii bracket using a proper spacer. My '73tii came that way when I bought it in 1983--the spacer appeared to be made just for that purpose, a solid metal cylinder the correct length for interference fit and bored for the bolt. Ah, here it is: Anyone have a picture of a tii alternator/mounting assembly? http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/98315-anyone-have-a-picture-of-a-tii-alternatormounting-assembly/ And a related post: alternator mounting bolt broken.... again http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/130152-alternator-mounting-bolt-broken-again/

Jose--not exactly. One can use full-size springs with other adjustable camber plates, such as those with spherical metal bearings that are used for track applications, by using the stock spring hat adapted to or in place of the coilover upper hat. You just cannot get as much negative camber with the large spring as with the smaller "coilover" spring. My '69 came set up this way, then I changed it over to coilover. My understanding is that these "Stage 1" Kmac bushings (poly) are stiffer than the stock rubber ones, but less harsh than full metal-to metal spherical bearing plates. The KMacs I have seen allow both camber and caster adjustment, while some of the race plates are camber only (with more caster than stock, but fixed). I have no personal experience with the KMacs, though.--Fred

Hmm, that gives me an idea. How about a split brake pedal--like some tractors have to help them turn--on the track car for trail braking into a corner? You'd roll your foot one way or the other depending on left or right corner........Might have to modify the two-spin rule at some driver's schools! Kidding aside, I feel that is what left foot braking helps me do when trail braking. By being able to modulate the weight balance of the car with both feet, it feels similar to using turning brakes on a tractor--can make the car point right where I want.

valve spring retainer

This P/N is available through on-line BMW dealers such as South Atlanta and Husker BMW. Best price at Husker, but don't know what size the piece is: Lining 51951811281 $38.96 http://www.bmwmercedesparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=51951811281&make=BMW&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215771

Yeah, when pulling off the stock head gasket some can stick to the lower and upper timing cover, then causing an oil leak when reinstalled even if the block, head, and upper and lower timing covers are milled correctly. That is a PITA, fixed by some goop. But as far as sealing compression with fire rings, have not had an issue. --Fred

Since I started with tii's I have always used a 228mm flywheel. When I upped the HP and began doing more track events I started using an E30 M3 sport pressure plate along with a solid-center racing clutch disk. Both sourced from IE, works great, but not street-driven. I don't think the E30 M3 pressure plate comes in a 215mm variety, so keeping the 228 setup (as mentioned above) makes sense and gives you an upgrade path. I am now using a JBR 228mm aluminum flywheel with the M3 pressure plate in the '69. Very nice combo.If you can afford it go ahead, but not necessary and depends on how much you are being charged to lighten the stock flywheel. My next upgrade (for the '74) is to a 140mm twin-plate setup. Just got it from VAC, the entire billet steel flywheel and Tilton clutch assembly weighs 11 lbs, far less than the 31 lb of the stock flywheel and clutch package. The new mass moment of inertia is even less than the weight drop suggests, as the mass is more concentrated toward the center. That was my Xmas present to my car

Hans--I'll have to disagree with this. I have re-used stock head gaskets with no problem. They are cheap so I would not re-use many times, but it can be done. This has been discussed before here. IMO there would be no reason to pull the head just to install that oil rail. But I would drain coolant if I was loosening all the head bolts at once. I would not use the "two-at-a time" method if all the other bolts were at full torque. Could imagine backing off all bolts a bit (in the appropriate release pattern, of course) but not fully--then using the two-at-a time method. This might avoid the need to drain coolant. Then torque as usual. I've never angle-torqued, and have never had a head gasket leak because I did not. That's not to say it is a bad method, I just have not done it.

Yep, one of those Euro-only jobs that we never got in the U.S. I did some searching but could not find any original images of the car. Autohaus Lindlar (GmbH, 51469, Bergisch Gladbach) does sponsor BMW race cars. Hard to read the text on the window in the photo above, but I did come across a BMW racer named "Kutsch Rainer". Photo of a Lindlar 2002 below, similar blue and Lindlar logo in same place. Number board appears similar, says "ADAC" at bottom.. Also came across a Bavaria station wagon that appears to be real: "Back in the early to mid 1970’s, a BMW dealer in Great Britain named Langley Motors of Thames Ditton, had 2.8 and 3.0 liter Bavaria’s converted into Estate Cars, Station Wagons as we call them in the US." http://www.cartype.com/pages/5085/bmw_bavaria_estate_wagon__1970

Check oil level with dipstick. If fine then it is just gas and as said the hose clamp came loose. Recent rebuild supports that, it was just not tight to begin with. If no oil in engine then [a] two unrelated things happened at the same time, or something caused both symptoms. If , perhaps you hit some debris while driving (a board, metal rod, etc) that flipped up, poked a hole in the oil pan or oil filter, and caught that loose hose and yanked it out. You probably would have heard that, though. Whatever it was, it happened close to where the car is now parked as you cannot get far without the gas line hooked up! Let us know what you find. --Fred

Just click the "ad an advert" button on the mid-upper right of the classifieds page . Then choose a category, click continue. To add photos use "add attachment" feature at bottom.

I was thinking that. Apparently there was an article in the BMW CCA Roundel some years ago on building a low-budget M10 race engine and just cutting off all the skirts. I would not go that far, but when I had a broken skirt at Watkins Glen a few years back Roy Hopkins (for those that don't know, engine builder and 3-time Targa Newfoundland winner is his 2002 with Adrienne navigating) suggested I could run it as is and be fine. However it turned out I had other internal damage (oil pump shaft broke at 7000 RPM and the nut bounced off the crankshaft all the way back and took out 3 pistons) so did a full rebuild instead. --FB

Bummer, sorry to see. I have one 89.47 piston of that type, but it's too large for you. I also have a set of 90mm E12 9.5:1 pistons (cast, IE) in excellent shape, but then you'd have to bore the block. You could probably get away with squaring off that broken edge and running as is (race pistons have even shorter skirts than what you would be left with), but then that would throw off the balance as well. Hopefully someone will have a single piston sitting in their basement for you. --Fred

DRM 1976 -- mainly 320's junior team but I see the Rodenstock Gr. 5 2002 in there as well http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6GwFCMH6RE

Since you know the second ring was wrong and it was smoking due to oil getting past the rings flipping the rings should fix it. If you machinist was competent when rebuilding the head with new guides and seals they are fine. I would not worry about the valves at all. Use brake cleaner to clean up the black on the chambers. Pistons look fine. I recently took apart my engine after only 3 hours running, that was break in, dyno and 20 minutes track--maybe not quite as black but cleaned right up (well, except for the #1 piston, but that's a different story). Cross hatch looks good, no need to re-hone. --Fred

With all this talk about getting nuts off it's too bad Otis left--I think we need him here!

And it's even more difficult if you have a baffled oil pan (I do). What I do is unbolt the pan, then reach in and unbolt the oil pump and the rear oil pump support bolt and pull the pan and pump out together. I might raise the engine and/or drop the subframe a tad, I forget right now.

Frederick--so how is it running? Are you still using the dual 45 carbs it came with? They may be too big for a stock cam, though perhaps small venturi's and re-jetting might work. I recall our previous discussion ended up with suggestions for a 304° cam: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/146686-how-much-hp-from-my-bmw-2002/ The thing is, the extra head you have must be used with the 316° cam in it, or an even more aggressive 328° or 336°, as all three of those Schrick cams have an enlarged first and second cam journals. So the head you have has been line-bored for the bigger journals, and you cannot install a 304° or smaller cam, unless you had one custom made with larger journals (maybe there is one out there that will fit, I am just not aware of it). So, if you want to use that head you will be back to the full race engine. If the car is only for fun driving I think that would be fine--just realize the power band is from about 5000 RPM to 7500 RPM or so. But since it makes good power it will pull from lower RPM, you just don't want to be in stop-and-go traffic. This is an "open road" engine EDIT: good point about the noise at high RPM. My 316° track car, described in the post linked above, has a 3" exhaust through a Magnaflow 18" x 6" muffler. I thought that would be enough, but I've taken to wearing earplugs as it is loud at sustained high RPMs. I love the sound though, that sucker barks (180 RWHP, roughly 215 crank HP). Still don't have the AFR dialed in, though. Best, Fredric

Dave--Yes, you want to bleed all three front caliper bleed nipples on each side in the sequence given above. That RHD system sounds like a bear to bleed! --Fred

I would find the ring installation instructions and triple-check ring orientation, but it does appear the second ring is flipped. Here's the install instructions for my Total Seal rings, the outer bevel goes down in the "reverse torsional taper face" second rings I used. 2x4 indicates engine lifted for clearance to remove oil pan, and/or sub-frame dropped to achieve same. I'd likely pull the engine as well, but I do it often enough with the track cars that I am used to it. That way you don't need a helper when removing/installing the pistons. At least your issue is not catastrophic, my lack of valve-piston clearance on my first race engine build was. --Fred

Joe! Not recommended. You don't want this conversation:....."Joe: The brakes don't work, just use the emergency brake" "Jim: Oh, OK, no problem" "Joe: Why is the nose of my car smashed?" .."Jim:...well, when Bob drove it on the trailer it turned out the brakes didn't work...not our fault" A bit tongue in cheek, but you get the point. Look forward to hearing you get it on the road, under its own power!

See discussion about the car on BAT: http://bringatrailer.com/2013/12/14/1974-bmw-2002-turbo/