FB73tii

To remove my baffled oil pan with the engine in car (not a Korman pan) I drop the front subframe a bit and reach in and unbolt the oil pump and pull the pan out with the oil pump in it. Installation is reverse of removal, using tie wraps to hold the gasket in place. --Fred

I do my shaft seals dry on the outside and a bit of grease in the inner lip. Just did a trans input shaft that way. Recently put Hylomar on a diff side shaft seal and it was slippery and wanted to pop out. Cleaned it up and put it back in dry. YMMV. --Fred

I agree with adding steering limiters but also want to mention another option is to move the front axles forward a bit with a modified subframe and/or modified control arms and thrust rods. But I don't know how far forward you can go without hitting at the front, and of course that will affect caster which then may need custom mods to get back to what you want. I am not sure, but I think using the bavaria control arms to widen front track (and add neg camber) moves them forward a bit--need to verify. I have considered cutting, relocating and welding the foot wells, but also want to do a custom front subframe with heim joints and adjustable control arms like flybmw02 did. I have a photo of his subframe somewhere, the control arms attach in the middle of the subframe large bolt, inside the subframe, rather that outside the subframe at the back as in stock. EDIT: Ah, found a photo of what I am thinking of and associated link: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/74769-my-gt3-2002-restoration-back-on-track-now-1130-update/ --Fred '69 & '74tii

I need a short neck diff for my 2002 track car by this weekend or early next week (11/19/13 at the latest). It needs to be: --welded or limited slip --3.91 or 4.11 gear ratio --2002 or E21 case Shipped to ZIP 20901 Feel free to call me at work (202) 586-2824 (days, eastern time) or at home in the evenings (301) 563-6970 if you have one for sale or a suggestion on where to get one. Thanks, Fred '69 & '74tii

You want more power and have done every mod you can think of but are still running a 38/38 carb? Rather than asking for something plug and play it is on you to do the research. Without more info on why you want more power and what your application is it is really hard to give any advice. I recently posted my recipe for a 180 RWHP race engine that will need to be rebuilt every 80-100 hours. Robert in Sweden has posted on his monster 700 HP+ turbo 1600 (or 1602, I forget). Others have done extensive mods including putting the transmission toward the back of the car and using a torque tube to transmit power from the crank to the trans. Andrew posted a link to one of the definitive books on turbo charging. I spent 5 years and read dozens of technical books and articles when I went looking for more horsepower. Do a Google search on EFI and you will find a ton of stuff. You can spend $4000 on a MOTEC ECU alone if you are going high end. You need to do a first round of research to figure out what you want, then a second, much more extensive round of research on how to achieve that. Realize that 10 HP is a lot cheaper than 50 HP, and 50 HP is a lot cheaper than 100 HP and so on. You also need to specify a budget--if you are adding several hundred HP then you need to modify the entire drivetrain to handle the power, and brakes and safety gear to go with it. Are you looking to spend $5K on something simple, or $20-$50K on full all-out mods? Final thought is that if you are simply looking to "go faster", invest your money in driving schools if you have not already. Better to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow. Best of luck on your project, Fred '69 & '74tii

Yep, that is correct. I ran standard 2002 alternators on my tii for years with a heavy gauge spacer. I am not sure where I got the spacer. Now that I am no longer running the tii motor I am using a 2002 front cover and the 320i bracket mentioned above--320i Alternator Bracket (1.8L, 1979-1982) P/N 12311266828. I like it because it has three bolts into the block, rather than the two of the later-style tii mounts. I cut off the extra ear on top and polished it out. I am using a standard 2002 alternator and a spacer I fabricated, about 0.25" thick. --Fred '69 & '74tii

No photos at the moment, will take some when I get around to installing the engine this winter. (In a previous post I said I was going to install it in the summer, but I didn't specify what year ). Boy I wish I had direct access to CNC. This was done by a friend of a friend. Great work, but it always costs about triple what my friend says in the beginning. He also did a custom S14 crank pulley and mandrel for me to drive the dry sump. Again, will post some photos when I get back to that project. --Fred

Unfortunately not uncommon. Suggest you go through the whole car and check every nut, bolt, shaft and safety item. The car I recently bought had the driver seat mounted in a very unsafe manner, and the bolts on the driveshaft (both at the guibo and the diff flange) were *finger tight* ...! Hopefully you don't find any major issues, but better to find them in your driveway than out on the road --Fred

TIP: In an emergency, a split cooling hose can be strengthened with a plastic bag and cardboard splint and then wrapped with tape. The key is to loosen or remove the radiator cap so there is no pressure on the system. Can't say how many miles you can drive this way, but it might just get you home. Did this with an old truck one time and was surprised at how well it worked. BTW, a 1.25" radiator hose (31.75mm) will work on the 2002. My Ron Davis radiator has 1.25" outlets. --Fred

Stock springs have "open" ends and need the pads with recesses in them to seat properly. Most "coilover" springs are of the closed ground type and do not require spring pads. On my track cars they directly touch the upper and lower spring hats --Fred

Here's mine....perhaps a bit over-engineered --Fred

Hmm, thanks for the warning. I am using ARP main studs, not bolts, so that issue does not occur. However, as has been mentioned here, the studs provided by ARP are all the same length, I believe for the E21 M10 block. They do not provide longer studs for main cap #3 (oil pump support). Ireland Engineering modifies the ARP kit and supplies the needed longer studs. I sourced a pair of long studs directly from ARP. However, in a dry sump engine, the longer studs are neither required nor desired. It should also be noted that the ARP studs create a pinch point for the oil pump shims between the #1 exhaust-side stud and the oil pump housing. This was discussed in another thread. While one could clearance the pump or drill a hole in the shims, I think the best solution is to just trim the shims as has been suggested. Link to oil pump shim discussion http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/146272-oil-pump-shim-damage-from-main-stud/ Fred '69 (ARP stud wet sump) & '74tii (ARP stud dry sump)

Agreed, yellow paint applied at the junction of a fastener to its mating surface indicates the fastener has been torqued to final spec. It is normally lacquer, which is very brittle when dry and cracks easily under load. Any cracks in the paint that show upon later inspection indicate the fastener has begun to to loosen, a good quick check when doing a "nut-and-bolt" inspection on a track car. I use yellow nail polish on critical fasteners, in particular the CV joint bolts. A more expensive option is official "anti-tamper" paint or "anti-sabotage lacquer" as used in the aircraft industry. --Fred '69 & '74tii

Yep, I was just installing a new flywheel last night and saw that the play in the alignment tool would allow the clutch disk to move around a bit. I held it in what I judged to be the center of the play with one hand while I did the initial tighten on the pressure plate bolts (in a star pattern, of course). In this case the trans was in the car and by aligning the block with the trans carefully it pretty much went in on the first try. Easiest mating of block and trans I ever had. I am taking it as a good sign that my new engine won't have any issues this time! I have taken to installing just the bottom end first, then the head after--I can see much better to get the alignment with the trans shaft right. --Fred

You want the trans in gear so you can rotate the output flange (slightly) by hand and thereby turn the input shaft to align it with the splines in the clutch plate. Having done this many times, the key is alignment. Look for an even gap between the trans housing and back of engine block before even trying to make that last 1/2 inch. Have a bolt handy because if you don't, when you have to let go to grab a bolt the engine and trans will surely separate! On my 2002's I always have issues with the trans hitting the top of the tunnel, even after I ground off the lip. I loosen the engine mounts and wedge some small wood blocks in to tilt the engine back. Be careful of radiator clearance when doing this, and also distributor needs to be removed (as said above) for clearance. I have tried fabricating cradles for my floor jack, but I always just end up bench pressing the trans in, usually holding it with one knee. Be careful and don't drop it on your face! As said above, you cannot force it. You have to wheedle, wiggle, and cajole it in. Swearing helps --Fred '69 & '74tii

You mean I didn't need to build that giant oven? Well, at least now I can powder coat my entire car --Fred

Ah, I noticed that but now that you've said it, it makes sense. #3 is unique for thrust bearing and #5 is unique because it is not marked! BTW, agree BMW uses wave washers, had them on an old, original block I recently tore down. And they are in the Blue parts manual. BMW certainly did not use thread locker, though! --Fred

Yes. Without the gasket there is not enough pressure against the cap to hold it tight and it will fall right off. Unless you have some kind of aftermarket cap, but I imagine it would have a gasket, too. Um, John--removing the oil cap results in a big mess ....ask me how I know Now, when the gaskets get old they start to leak. I have tried bending down the spring-loaded tabs in the metal cap to apply more pressure, but that doesn't always work and sometime messes up the cap. I have seen folks put two gaskets in to make it seal, as well. --Fred

As I told Lars, search is your friend......Here, I did it for you: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/146319-rocker-arms-upgrades/?hl=roller+rocker#entry949885 BTW, I will be using the Haltech PS1000 on my new engine (dry sumped for the '74). I added a cam wheel and sensor so it will be fully sequential, can tune each cylinder for fuel and spark (using four LS-1 coils). Several years in the making, hope to get it done over the winter. Also, here a link to my technology experiment for the 2002: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/128747-flat-slide-progress/ But I'm with Marshall and the others--no power steering, ABS or electronic nannies for me! Fred

Brian--Sorry to hear this is still not resolved, and in fact worse. Suggest you start a new post "experienced tii mechanic need in NY/NJ area", and include a link to this post. I thought your approach to take one thing at a time is a good one. But fuel filter and spark plugs are very small pieces of all the advice and good points folks have offered here. It seems like the cold start issue was never resolved, and that is complicating or contributing to every thing else now going wrong. A few specific questions: 1. Does the tii cold start injector (CSV) spray **constantly** when the engine is running? If so, this must be stopped before going any further. 2. How do you know the white smoke is not water vapor? If it is oil, could point to a broken ring. Pull the breather tube off the valve cover with the engine runnig and rev it a bit, does smoke come out? If so, an indicator of broken rings. If CSV spraying constantly then raw fuel is washing down your cylinder walls. Also diluting the oil--bearing failure will result. And a few comments: A. Agree not likely injectors or KF pump. Instead of spending money on that buy some needed tools (see next points). B. Have a compression test done. Either buy a tester or pay to have it done. That will start to tell you about the rings and/or head gasket. C. If pressure gauge does not fit buy a few brass adapters and make it fit. Or order one that will fit. Tii fuel pressure is very important, and without knowing whether it is high/ low, or blocked return you are shooting in the dark. Finally, don't give up! It's just an engine, and you will get this solved. Best--Fred

Here: Why Do We All Do It. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/146567-why-do-we-all-do-it/ I do it because it is classic, handles well, has lots of room, and is easy to work on. I do it because I am an individual, not one of the masses. I do it because I like it Best of luck, Fred '69 & 74tii

What indicates that the head gasket is leaking? Compression test? Milky oil skunge on underside of oil filler cap? Oil film in the radiator? White smoke out the tailpipe when you start the car? I find RM European to be a good source of gaskets, Felpro stock head gasket is about $29. Fred '69 & '74tii

Yes indeed, that is what we have been discussing. --FB

Yes, this is a major mistake, like forgetting to torque the rod bolts. The engine will destroy itself very quickly if started. I've always said the shafts cannot be installed incorrectly, but I assumed a guide plate would have been installed. As Daron points out, without the guide plate they can be put in "upside down" with bad results. IF the rocker shafts are in the head correctly, the guide plate can be installed simply by removing the large coolant plug (36mm, if I recall correctly) from the front of the head. The slots on the rocker shafts need to be properly aligned with the head, but the shafts could likely be "persuaded" into position if they are only a little bit off. However, if the shafts are upside down, the head needs to come off and and the valve train disassembled and put back together correctly. --Fred '69 & '74tii

Yes, very reasonable. I bought a set of 8 for USD $315 delivered a few months ago, so exchange rate must be more favorable now. Fred