FB73tii

I believe you have misinterpreted some of David Vizard's work. As you know, the termination box terminates the wave of the secondary. Just as primary header length tuning is important, his point is that so is tuning of the secondary length. Though Vizard gives some guidelines on secondary header length, to do it right requires experimentation on the dyno or track. I considered making a sliding section resonator box to test different lengths, but other projects took over. Vizard's second point is that for *race engines*, minimum backpressure (or zero) is desired. Thus the emphasis on free-flowing mufflers. If you have a 3" exhaust secondary, you cannot put a 1.5" exhaust and a restrictive muffler after the termination box and expect to suffer no performance degradation. The entire exhaust system, from head to exhaust tip, needs to be free-flow. Not all muffler manufacturers publish flow in CFM. Vizard has a rule of thumb for CFM vs. HP, if I recall correctly. In my experience street engines are different, they like some backpressure. I found this out when once my center reasonator split all the way along the seam. It was loud, and I thought great, now I'll have more power. Nothing was further from the truth, I was amazed on how down on power the engine was. The bottom line is an engine is tuned as a complete system, from air filter to exhaust tip. Tuning and hard parts differ by application, race, street, or other. Here's some good reading, and do let us know if you do the experiment and find a difference: My previous post on Vizard: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/109382-need-advice-on-raised-floor-header-install/ David Vizard's How to Port & Flow Test Cylinder Heads S-A Design (February 15, 2012) David Vizard's How to Build Horsepower S-A Design (June 15, 2010) Engine Airflow - A Practical Guide to Airflow Theory, Parts Testing, Flow Bench Testing and Analyzing Data to Increase Performance for Any Street or Racing Engine by Harold Bettes HP Books (July 6, 2010) Exhaust Science Demystified. By David Vizard From the February, 2009 issue of Super Chevy http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/exhaust/0505phr_exh/index.html Racing Exhaust System - Header Tech. By David Vizard From the February, 2009 issue of Stock Car Racing http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/scrp_0704_header_tech/index.html Fred '69 & '74tii

Agreed, have had an 8-bolt guibo puke a few times with no warning on track--guess I did not inspect it closely enough or replace it often enough. As above, in one case it took out part of the selector shaft housing--fixed it with JB weld and git many more miles out of it. I don't like having any preload on my drivetrain, can't imagine it is good for the bearings. But the car sees only track duty, so loads are high. Are 6-bolt guibos stronger and/or do they have a softer failure mode? --Fred '69 & '74tii

Alex--Yes, the KM rockers are heavy, which is why I am paying great attention to valve spring pressure. Try searching for an old post by John Forte (flybmw02) on lightening them. He drilled holes in the top rib, and the material is quite hard so it took a bit of work (photo below). The Lester Owen and Schrick rockers are designed differently, and as you know cost quite a bit more. There is no free lunch here, if the KM rockers did not need the top rib it probably would not be there. --Fred

It appears that the E30 sending unit (16141152266) is inserted into the E30 fuel pump carrier (16141180233). Here's a photo of the complete assembly: --Fred

Grinding a hardened washer to fit a side-clearance intrusion is a great tip. Had not thought of that. There are also 10mm head nuts for 8mm studs, generally referred to as Jet Nuts or K-nuts. They are all-metal self-locking nuts. Not cheap, but great for tight applications such as intake and exhaust manifolds. --Fred '69 & '74tii

I have the Ireland set and as I recall the 22mm hollow front bar acts like a 25mm solid bar due to the shorter lever arm achieved by using the different (pillow block) mounts. It does not specify this on the IE site though, so I would check with them. I do like the IE pillow block mounts, easier to deal with than those stock mounts, particularly on a larger than stock swaybar. However, realize that a 25/22mm set-up is much stiffer than a 22/19mm setup (the torsional stiffness of a tube or bar varies with the fourth power of the diameter). For the average user a 22/19 setup is likely best, while 25/22 if you are headed to the track and plan other suspension upgrades for track worthiness. The matched 19/19 mm Hardy & Beck set I had many years ago was very nice for street and spirited mountain driving. Fred '69 & '74tii

Indeed. First thing I did when I got my '73tii (in 1983, SF Bay Area,114k miles) was to upgrade to Hardy & Beck 19mm sway bars front and rear. Improved handling quite a bit, more stable under braking, no downside. BTW, who is that guy? Jay Leno?! Looks like a great ride--enjoy! --FB

Sorry to hear you need to sell. The question is will the $3-5K+ you need to invest to finish the bodywork and paint (and more if interior needs work) be repaid when you sell? On one hand, nice to sell a complete car at a solid asking price. On the other hand, selling now "as-is" allows the buyer to pick their own color and level of finish. Sounds like you have good suspension and brakes. You need to do the calculus on what you want out of the car. Post a few pics and tell us more about the motor, interior and condition of the car. Are you under time pressure, or can you let this develop for a while? Best of luck, Fred

Very nice photos--where were they taken? Clearly along the coast--radar in back ground, almost looks like Ben Lomond Mountains near Santa Cruz but not quite. Cool vintage pics....and a ton of body roll! Upgrade those sway bars if not done already Best, Fred '69 & '74tii

Well the government has re-opened, the barricades have been taken away from the Mall, tourists are can visit the museums and people here in DC are back at work. To celebrate, I took a moment to put together some good videos to watch while enjoying your favorite beverage, Put these full screen and crank up the volume! And do share your favorites, I know you've got them. Enjoy. --Fred '69 & '74tii BTW, best to click the lower right to "watch in YouTube". Then full screen and crank it up! ---------------------------------------- BMW Norma M20 Hillclimb Mind-blowing! Hillclimb: Sainte Baume mountain, France Driver: Alain Castellana Chassis: Norma Motor: BMW M3 3.0L 6-cylinder Horsepower: 400 Weight: 1350 lbs ---------------------------------------- BMW 2002 sequential 6 speed gearbox Sweet 2002 M12/7 Hillclimb: Bergrennen Hillclimb Oberhallau Driver: Richard Petter Chassis: BMW 2002 Motor: BMW 4 Zylinder 2000ccm F2 16V Getriebe: Hewland sequenzielles 6 Ganggetriebe Fahrwerk: KW-Competion More information: http://www.mp-motorsport.at/?show=content&id=4 -------------------------------------- One of my favorite clips: BMW 2002 sequential 6 speed gearbox Hillclimb: Homburg 2003 Chassis: BMW 2002 Motor: BMW 4 Cylinder 2000ccm M12 16V --------------------------------------BMW 2002tii 8V Hillclimb: Wolsfelder Bergrennen 2011 Driver: Norbert Wimmer - 49-------------------------------------- Quick 320i Oliver Harsch BMW Bergrennen Schleiz -------------------------------------- BMW Osella PA 20 Hillclimb Fast forward to Onboard video 3:25 to 6:30 Hillclimb: Course de Cote Hillclimb Turckheim, 2005 Driver: Patrik Zajelsnik Chassis: Osella (Italy) Motor: BMW M3 3.0L 6-cylinder Horsepower: 380-400 -------------------------------------- Open-Wheel hillclimb (non-BMW) Awesome when he gets into 6th gear! NOTE: Fast Forward to 3:20 for start Checkered at 6:59 Hillclimb: Cividale Castelmonte 2013 Driver: Federico Liber Chassis: tube-frame Gloria C8F Motor: Motorcycle Weight: under 900 lbs -------------------------------------- and since we were recently discussing Robert and M10 Roller rockers: Bmw 1602 turbo 800hk @ Dynotech.se Watch as hands cover the ears as revs go up! --------------------------------------

Lars--here search is your friend http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/133673-new-cnc-machined-roller-rockerarm-for-m10m30-by-dynotechse/ Not sure if Robert is offering these for sale yet, he is working on a full kit with cam, rockers etc. See the third page of the post for photos--those roller wheels are much larger than the ones on the Japanese site. Keeping an eye out for the final product! Best, Fred

OK, perhaps I'll try the "sandwich method" on a spare shim that I have. Would be nice not to have to hand place the shim ends each time I R&R the oil pump. Now that only the thin shim is available I end up with a few to get the desired shim thickness. --FB

The only BMW M10 roller rockers I have ever seen are from Robert Karlsson at Dynotech in Sweden (http://www.dynotech.se) and ones made by an individual in Japan. It was several years ago that I came across the Japanese website, have not been able to identify the owner, but he has done quite a bit of nice machine work. Flip though the pages to see what looks like an Alpina dry sump setup, piston oil squirters, gun drilled crank, and unusual combustion chamber mods. Here's the URL, along with a photo from the site: http://bmw021800.jugem.jp/?cid=4 Go to fourth category on left, "My M10" --Fred '69 & '74tii

Marshall--As said above, I don't know how to drill a hole big enough in metal that is only 0.1 mm thick . Close to trying to drill a hole in tinfoil. I'll just snip as suggested. --Fred

CD--About an inch of the shim is captured between the oil pump and the block on each side. Take a close look at the upper right of the photo above, you can just make out the overlap region around the two holes. The rest of the shim, about four inches or so, just floats freely between the two suspension points, above the oil pan and roughly below the #1 main bearing cap. Not sure if it touches the stud or has a small air gap. Anyone running ARP main cap studs in an M10 would have this issue, I would think. --Fred

I don't have a way to do that without destroying the shim. These are very thin metal that would just wrap around a drill bit. A punch would be best, but I would be worried that too little width would be left and the shim would break under vibration anyway. This is for a race engine. An alternative is to go dry sump, which I have already done for my other engine. But that's some $$$ and not allowed in some racing classes. --FB

Well, I guess I'd better drill those holes now! Block is still in assembly mode, so no biggie to pull the bearings. As some one wiser than me once said, "if you have time to do it wrong, you have time to do it right" --Fred

As a data point I ordered 204 pieces from Maximillian in 2009 for $110.48 + shipping. A few items not included as NLA (such as camshaft lock tabs). There were a few things I didn't order and a few things you might not need so YMMV -- Fred

Byron--Thanks for the quick reply! --Fred

My oil pump shims are showing damage from touching the top of my ARP main studs under vibration. Damage shown here is after only one hour run time (redline is 7800 RPM). I am concerned that rather quickly the shims will fracture, flap around, and drop metal bits into the oil pan. Considering cutting the shims with shears and hand-placing the bits on each side, thus eliminating the center portion. Don't really want to grind off the tip of the ARP stud, but could if need be. Anyone run into this and what did you do? Thanks. --Fred '69 & '74tii

Here's a diagram showing placement of oil holes in coated race bearings I got from IE a while back. I added a schematic to show that for each rod supplied by a main bearing, there are four holes. I imagine the extra holes are there to let more oil flow through the bearing and to the rod. Two extra holes for each rod that needs to be fed. I am just putting together an engine and looking at the 2 holes in each of the main bearings (standard set, not race) and thinking I should drill and chamfer the extra holes in. Not going to bother with it now, but maybe on the next set. --Fred '69 & '74tii

+1^^ Based on the photo I was going to say they used a rod bearing for the main bearing--that really wouldn't work! Noticed the lack of the oil galley back-cut, but even though the holes not needed on that side, they wouldn't cause a problem, would they? Not sure if you can get bearings without holes, other than by special order. --Fred

You mean like this? Here 12 tires is even better than four. Notice the wide track--virtually no body roll

Great, thanks to everyone for your replies. I will hold onto the block and feel comfortable using it for an NA race engine someday. Best regards, Fred '69 & '74tii