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About rms_sandiego

  • Birthday 11/05/1954

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  • Location
    San Diego
  • Interests
    Making things run better

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  1. So I get the source, but is there a way we can identify the newer versions from the older (more problematic) versions?
  2. http://www.kooglewerks.com/products/bmw-2002-drip-rail-molding-installation-tool
  3. The terminals (labeled 9 in the diagram) at the power end of fuses 5 and 6 are connected in the fusebox (behind the paper label) and receive switched power from the ignition key. If you measure continuity with a voltmeter, all of those terminals in the #9 area are continuous with each other. The power from that source goes through the respective fuses to the #8 and #10 terminals. The blue green wires from #10 go to the horn relay, the fan blower, and the wipers. Leave them as they are...
  4. Where's Carnac the Magnificent when you need him?
  5. You also need to take the bolt out completely to get the collars to slide past the splines on the shafts. The bolt then sits in the groove just under the splines in your pic...
  6. For a machine shop for the rebuild itself, Motorworks is excellent: https://motorworkssd.com/... I've had them do two engines for me. If you need someone to pull the engine and subframe for you and send it to a rebuilder, then I would consider Chris Keefer at Independent Motorcars up near Miramar. La Jolla Independent has also done good work for me, but I think they've lost a step lately and I've moved over to Independent Motors. Just my .02$
  7. +1 to Toby's post. I did say it wasn't difficult...didn't say it was fun... But a lot of soapy water to lubricate (and patience) will get you through. Extra hands help but I've done the job alone too... I do find a good tool helps, My preference is for a wheeled lockstrip tool because there is a markedly decreased risk of scarring the strip. This one is my favorite. Do evaluate how flexible the gasket it first. It's a miserable job on stiff hardened rubber. Letting the window and gasket warm in hot sun to soften the rubber first helps. The tricky parts (at least to me) are the corners. Softening the lock strip in a bucket of hot water or warming it (carefully) with a heat gun makes shaping into the corners easier. Equalizer locking strip tool
  8. I'm with joysterm. Swapping out the lockstrip isnt that difficult with some soapy water and perseverence.
  9. So many things to tweak... Remember that the position of the gear shift lever is also dependent on the length of the selector rod (that goes from the bottom of the shift lever to the back of the tranny). The lever arm on the top is ~4x the length of the bottom so each 1/8 of an inch or so you shorten the selector rod relative to the shift tower will move the gear shift back 1/2 inch or so... I did my own welding and didn't finalize the length of the selector rod until everything else was in position so I could get the gear shift knob exactly where I wanted it.
  10. You can try BMW P/N 51411870718 Its a door panel clip (BMW calls them clamps), but looks like it'll fit
  11. Windshieldstogo.com supplies Pilkington glass. Easy to look up who the local distributor is on their site or a local warehouse location for pickup.. Current price in my location is $234. I've had good experiences with them.
  12. Tii/'02 alternator Adjusting bar: 16 Adjusting bar 1 04/1971 10/1975 12311256082 E21 Alternator Adjusting bar 13 Adjusting bar 1 09/1979 12318602037 I don't believe they are interchangeable with the air pump adjusting bracket.
  13. BMW part# 35411104043 Blunt or other suppliers can get for you. Or almost anything similar from the hardware store.
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