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rms_sandiego

Turbo
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About rms_sandiego

  • Birthday 11/05/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego
  • Interests
    Making things run better

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  1. Early cars have two tiny nuts on the back of the bezel. Total PITA to get to them. They cannot just be removed from the front...
  2. you can search for steering preload and find a bunch or writeups, but basically loosen the coupler on the splined shafts, have someone push in the steering wheel 6mm (1/4 in or so), and tighten the coupler while the steering shaft is pushed in... You can change the motor mounts with the engine in, but you need to lift it up enough (an inch or so) with an engine hoist or lift to be able to change out the mounts. Some have jacked up on the oil pan with a flat wood pad to lift the engine, but that always makes me cringe. I'd try preloading the shaft and see if it takes care of things first.
  3. Did you preload the steering column spring/bearing by having someone push down on the wheel before tightening the coupler?
  4. The piston should just slide out of the bore. There may be a ring of crud at the end of the normal travel range that it needs to get past.
  5. Mintgrun nailed it... There is an internal passage built into the slave cylinder that is designed to allow full bleeding with the bleed valve nipple pointing DOWN. If the bleed nipple is pointing up, you are working against yourself. See this post for more thoughts:
  6. Nice job. Are you planning to use the Bavaria 3.0 motor mounts with the longer stud? I understand the extra thickness of the welded in plate makes the stock motor mount stud too short for the nut to fit on... I have one of the IE plates setting around waiting for me to do this reinforcement, but I've been lazy.
  7. So sorry this happened to you Not to rub it in, but I would say the fifth red flag is Venmo... This is how Venmo describes its services for purchases: Venmo is designed for payments between friends and people who know and trust one another. There are also several Venmo services for merchants who want to accept payments. However, Venmo should not be used for purchases, unless explicitly authorized by Venmo. And there is really no recovery process for fraud...
  8. So I get the source, but is there a way we can identify the newer versions from the older (more problematic) versions?
  9. http://www.kooglewerks.com/products/bmw-2002-drip-rail-molding-installation-tool
  10. The terminals (labeled 9 in the diagram) at the power end of fuses 5 and 6 are connected in the fusebox (behind the paper label) and receive switched power from the ignition key. If you measure continuity with a voltmeter, all of those terminals in the #9 area are continuous with each other. The power from that source goes through the respective fuses to the #8 and #10 terminals. The blue green wires from #10 go to the horn relay, the fan blower, and the wipers. Leave them as they are...
  11. Where's Carnac the Magnificent when you need him?
  12. You also need to take the bolt out completely to get the collars to slide past the splines on the shafts. The bolt then sits in the groove just under the splines in your pic...
  13. For a machine shop for the rebuild itself, Motorworks is excellent: https://motorworkssd.com/... I've had them do two engines for me. If you need someone to pull the engine and subframe for you and send it to a rebuilder, then I would consider Chris Keefer at Independent Motorcars up near Miramar. La Jolla Independent has also done good work for me, but I think they've lost a step lately and I've moved over to Independent Motors. Just my .02$
  14. +1 to Toby's post. I did say it wasn't difficult...didn't say it was fun... But a lot of soapy water to lubricate (and patience) will get you through. Extra hands help but I've done the job alone too... I do find a good tool helps, My preference is for a wheeled lockstrip tool because there is a markedly decreased risk of scarring the strip. This one is my favorite. Do evaluate how flexible the gasket it first. It's a miserable job on stiff hardened rubber. Letting the window and gasket warm in hot sun to soften the rubber first helps. The tricky parts (at least to me) are the corners. Softening the lock strip in a bucket of hot water or warming it (carefully) with a heat gun makes shaping into the corners easier. Equalizer locking strip tool
  15. I'm with joysterm. Swapping out the lockstrip isnt that difficult with some soapy water and perseverence.
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