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Found 12 results

  1. From the album: Head Gasket

    Damaged head gasket between 1 and 2, blockage?
  2. From the album: Head Gasket

    Head gasket damaged between cylinder 1 and 2. No readable compression on clinder 1, cylinder 2 is at less that 100 PSI
  3. I purchased at Walloth and Nesch in Germany to rebuild my tii motor for my restoration. Selling for what I paid for it here is the link- https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/gasket-set-for-engine-2002-complete-with-reinforced-headgasket-you-need-1-for-1-car-11-02-02.html Shipping is included if within 48 states, actual shipping cost for other areas. You can reach me at 858-208-8449 call or text and I will accept PayPal friends and family to colletti.charles@yahoo.com
  4. Location: : Bozeman MT SOLD - PM me about any parts in the photo you're interested in. (Sorry the block and crankshaft just sold) I can send close-up photos if you want to see more detail. The Victor Reinz gasket is still new in package. I recall some of the parts are A/C specific and hard to find, but I couldn't find diagrams on RealOem to identify them. If you're in need them, you'll know better than I do. The 3 pistons are piano tops. Not sure of their condition, but they look good to my naked eye.
  5. Hey folks, it's been a while! So, currently tearing into the head to try and get to the bottom of my white smoke problem. I've been chatting a lot with Ken Blasko at Vintage BMW Racing (he's my local mechanic and knows the car well), and the goal here is to get the head out and over to him so he can take a look at it. Now, this is my first car I've ever wrenched on and this is the furthest I've dug into it, so I have a couple uber-noob questions: 1. I feel like a total idiot, but for the life of me I can't figure out what to do next. Here's my current progress: Carb, distributor, header, valve cover off. It's my understanding that the last thing I need to do is remove the timing chain tensioner and upper timing cover, but for the life of me I can't figure out where/what to do there. I'm guess it's just the front part hanging off the head? But I'd rather not just go about tearing things apart without knowing anything (I've already done plenty of that). Haynes and search haven't been much help. If someone could give me a "for dummies" photo or visual that would be super helpful. 2. Apparently I was supposed to set cylinder one to TDC. Definitely didn't do that. I'm assuming I'll have to throw the distributor back on and do so - if I don't, please let me know. Is there a way to set TDC without moving the car? The only way I know how to do so is to put the car in gear and roll it until it lines up. 3. For those who don't know my white smoke circumstances (probably most), it's this: car was initially just puffing white smoke out exhaust on high RPM decel (I assumed valves). A couple days later it started smoking heavily from the rear header area at all times. Fairly high oil usage. I ran a compression test and it all cylinders were 121-125 except cylinder 4, which was mid 130s. When I got the header off today there was a lot of oil in cylinder 4. The rest were clean. I suppose I'll know as soon as I get the head off, but any idea what's going on here? Appreciate all your help folks!
  6. I THINK I have a head gasket issue but my 02 (new to me and only have driven 2 miles) is on stands getting a whole new front end (brakes and steering). Likely going to be on the stands for another few weeks (already been there for about a month). I plan on doing all the tests to see if the head gasket is an issue - what I know right now is that the oil on the dipstipck is milky. I have been reading posts that talk about how anti-freeze -contaminated oil can damage engine bearings while the car sits. Should i do an oil/filter change and then start it for a few seconds? Take the belt off the water pump so it will not cycle anti-freeze into the oil (or at least minimize this). Take my OCD meds and get some sleep? Thanks, James
  7. I recently had an E12 engine head machined down to 5.047" (~128.1938mm) - (it's been decked a few times in it's life) - what head gasket should I get? And what else should I know? I understand the stock head is 5.0787" (129.0mm +/- 0.1mm) and the minimum is 5.070" (128.775mm) - this is below that. I also understand some A/X folks go as low as 127.5mm but need to start doing crazy things with chain tensioning and cam adjustment. VR makes a 1.5mm (p/n 11121734279) and a 1.8mm gasket (p/n 11121734280). Goetze does as well. IE/Cometic makes MLS gaskets 1.2mm / 1.4mm or pretty much anything else custom. In theory I understand I should get the 1.8mm thicker Victor Reinz gasket but I don't understand why. What are the advantages of Multi-Layered Steel? What would go wrong if I just put on the 1.5mm VR gasket I had as a spare? At this level do I need to worry about claying my cylinder heads to make sure there's not contact with the valves?
  8. New Head Gasket, Valve Cover Gasket & Exhaust Down Pipe Gasket Both the head gasket and valve cover gasket are in sealed packages. These fit the M10 4 cylinder 2.0 and 1.8 L engines. $30 for all 3, will Sell separately also.
  9. So, I have had this 74 02tii for about 2 months. Got it from a local consigner for what I thought was a good deal. Ran and drove. Checked under the oil filler cap (looked good), oil in engine looked good. Was not able to get under the car but from above, the engine looked pretty good with no real leaks. Have not driven it much (<3 miles) as the tires were horrible and the drivers side caliper is locked up. got some new tires took it around the block so I could back it in the garage and do the brakes. Up on stands, I finally got a good look at the engine: I also found this puddle. Looks like it came out of the little gap between what I would call the timing cover and the block. The little gap is seen in the photo above about an inch to the left of the rightmost edge at the very bottom edge of the picture. The car has leaked no oil while sitting in the garage. Could this have come out due to my jacking the front end up? More of the engine: One thing I did notice was that oil seemed to be gathering around a couple of the exhaust manifold studs. I have done some research and it seems like it is possible for oil to leak from these stud holes. Is there a galley there or something? I did check under the oil filler cap and there was a slightly milky substance but not a lot. Looking at the rockers and cams, they looked to have pretty clean oil on them. Here is the dipstick: My thoughts on a workplan (if my order looks off, open to your thoughts): Clean engine Check plugs and post pics on forum Change the oil and filter Based on feedback from forum, check torgue on exhaust studs. Apply sealant if needed. Retorgue head to 55 foot pounds (saw this somewhere on the interweb) Compression test Flush cooling system Car did sit for a while so seals and gaskets likely need a lot of help. I have read through a lot of threads on head gaskets and am not afraid to dive in - just not what I was looking forward to doing!
  10. Ok so I have noticed that my head gasket on my 1976 2002 has a leak. Its not major since I have been checking my oil and its not getting low. Im still going to change the head gasket but I dont know if I should buy a whole gasket seat to change the rest of the gaskets when I take everything apart. Not that Im being cheap I just want to know if its really necessary. Anyone have any opinions/ suggestions. Thanks
  11. I had a thread a few months ago as I was concerned about the head gasket on my 74 tii. This is a new-to-me car I picked up from a classic car consigner in Fort Worth, Texas. One owner car with LOTS of records. It had engine work done previously which included a rehone and rering and the head redone. Car ran when I got it and initial dipstick and radiator coolant / cap inspection revealed nothing. Car has been driven maybe 2 miles as the brake calipers were frozen. I was about halfway through my refurbishment of the front end when I found milky oil on the dipstick. The faq suggested that I just retorque the head, change fluids, and drive it to see what is happening. A compression test was also recommended as well. Well, I did a little more investigation yesterday: At first glance, the head looked really clean to me. No goop or slop anywhere: Then I looked closer: There is bright green coolant under there. Nice and slippery consistency. So, my natural tendency is to just dive in and begin a head gasket replacement. There's lots to do on this engine as oil is everywhere from the distributor, exhaust manifold studs, oil pan, etc. Eventually all of this will have to be done so while I am here it might be a good time. Thoughts?
  12. So, the past few months my 2002 started to use water. I was busy repairing my daily from damage caused my colourblind motorists (red means stop right?) , so I had to use my '71 even though I would have preferred not to. Anyway, I did a comp test and cylinder 3 was reading very low so I knew the HG was on its last breath. Long story shorter (yup, just a bit...), I had some time tonight and decided to open up the engine and inspect the damage. I started by removing the radiator, coolant neck thing and intake manifold. Then turned the engine to TDC, removed the dizzy and thought I would remove the exhaust manifold. And boy, was I wrong! Remember, this is a RHD car and space around the manifold is, well, non existent. Removing the original heat shield was a major pain, and no socket or ring spanner(wrench I guess for our American readers) can access the bolts, but after about an hour I removed 7 of the 8 bolts, but the bottom bolt on cyl. 4 would not budge. So after much swearing and bleeding knuckles I decided I would rather remove the headers with the head. I should have done that from the beginning, but hey, everything looks easier with 20/20 hindsight Well, 3 hours later, and the head has been removed. Maybe some gurus can share some more insight into the condition of the head and engine. Cyl 1 Cyl 2 Cyl 3, there's some damage on the piston an the head on this one, but couldn't find what caused it. Cyl 4 I want to clean it up, not sure how though, and replace the stem seals while I am at it. The bores don't have ridges, and the pistons look decent from my limited experience with open engines. Anything I am missing? Regards Jacques


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