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JerryC

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by JerryC

  1. The play in the steering indicates there is something loose in the steering, maybe not the steering box. Check the center link pivots and the tie rod ball joints, they can cause the same problem.
  2. Wasn't an '02, but I've heard of a case where a too-thin crankshaft thrust bearing caused a knocking noise at startup.
  3. Or just buy one from Ireland - $21: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/02leftmmreinf.html
  4. Answer to your original question, "Is there an easy fix" is "Maybe, if you're lucky, but probably will require some digging.". Searching will find lots of info. Add to the list above: - the fume recovery canister in the trunk under the rear shelf sometimes cracks - the very obscure plastic fuel line adapter that will crack sometime in 40+ years at the fuel line connection on top of the fuel tank. Search for this one, there are photos in posts from a few years back. edit, found this:
  5. The article has been moved at some time since 2010. Drill down into the tab labeled "Articles" at the top of this web page and you'll find it under "Engine and Drivetrain".
  6. I don't know that one. You never know what someone has done to keep an old car on the road without spending money. It seems that originality is getting more press these days, but it didn't used to be that way. I may have done a thing or two in the past that I would think twice about now.
  7. By the way, I'm curious now. What '02 are you working on? I've removed tumblers from a couple of them. Just wondering if I left this trail. My thoughts on removing the tumblers is that no one else knows they're gone, and any key will work afterward.
  8. With the switch removed, I have operated several of these with a screwdriver. It looks like the steering lock is in the way in your photo, so just take out the two screws on the back side and the switch will drop out. Keep the wires attached, of course, and be wary of accidental grounding.
  9. Hmmm... The verbage on that link is regarding Getrag 265s. All I found elsewhere was a price sheet, with 2 different 245s. What's a 245 Sport OD? Is the $2995 version a stock rebuild? If I was in the market to do this now, I'd go ahead and call MM but I'll do that when I'm more likely to follow up. The stock 245 generally lasts a long time, they're all just getting old.
  10. I doubt you've created a fire hazard. All the technical data I've been able to find online states the tape is polyethylene film and fibers with rubber adhesive. That does not sound like anything that can or will cause a short circuit. I would not use it as insulating tape, that's what the cautions are about. It's temporary at best, may last a month or years but not forever. An epoxy, without metal fillers (no JB Weld), will probably work better. Gorilla Epoxy may be a good choice, but I'd check out a fully cured chunk with an ohm meter before applying it to your light housing.
  11. Looks like the tidal surge caught it during a hurricane.
  12. Get this book, by faq contributor Rob Seagel: https://www.amazon.com/Just-Needs-Recharge-Mechanic-Conditioning/dp/0998950718 Also, search the faq for Rob's other books, and get a copy of "The BMW 2002 Restoration Guide" by Mike McCartney. It's all easy reading stuff, with dozens of ways to keep you out of a blind alley.
  13. Using the transmission hanger didn't prevent cracks in the Stahl header for me. It cracked, it was welded, and it cracked again, and it is now gone, back to stock tii manifold and downpipe. The rest of the engine was returned to stock as well, so it only seemed proper. Having a "faster" engine was not worth the extra upkeep for me.
  14. 2002 speedometer is gear driven from the transmission final drive output shaft. It screws in at a right angle to the driveshaft. The 5 speed cable connection is farther back than the 4 speed connection so the 4 speed cable won't quite reach. I've heard that a 2002 automatic cable will work with the 5 speed. That must be what's in mine.
  15. I've had experience with 4-speeds and 5-speeds in different cars. Living at the top of a narrow road on a 200+' high hill, I found the '72tii with 3.64 / 5-speed combo to be too low in first and too high in second. It made the climb okay in second (around 2500 - 2800 rpm), but there was no throttle response left. I think a 3.90 diff would help quite a bit here. The '68 1600 with 4.11 / 4-speed combo was very happy going up that same hill in second. The engine was running between 3500 and 4000 which made it quite responsive. Now, on the occasional 250 mile trip to SLO, the tii with 5-speed was the winner hands down. The 1600 was relatively deafening in that scenario.
  16. Look for a radiator shop that supplies the local small track racers. In my area, Dutton Radiator knows which 3-row works in our cars.
  17. Lack of a center bracket can also lead to a cracked or broken resonater inlet tube.
  18. Ford Ranger forums have frequent mention of blend door flap malfunctions, the shaft tends to come loose from the door. They found a way to cut a hole in the side of the box to avoid removal of the heater box to access the blend door. It worked for me.
  19. I don't think I saw any mention of verifying that the shift linkage bracket is clearing the bodywork everywhere. Kind of hard to do all around by eye from underneath, maybe work a sheet of heavy cardboard all around it to check clearances. I had a similar "mystery buzz" occurrence on my tii, and maybe something similar is happening on your carby. It turned out that the throttle body brace that doubles as a starter brace had broken and the TB had worked a bit loose as a result. I think vibration caused it all, alongwith a stripped out bolt hole. Anyway, I welded the bracket back together, heli-coiled and tightened all bolts and screws and the noise went away. It was funny that it didn't really resonate at any particular engine speed, but it convinced me that that brace is pretty important on tii's.
  20. It takes all kinds to make a world. Why do we do what we do? Sometimes, oftentimes, we don't know ourselves but we just do it. There's no right answer to any of these kinds of questions. It seems to me that BaT is perhaps not the best venue to sell a car like the subject vehicle. Perhaps a more useful intent is to advertise it to spread the word more rapidly that it is available for the right buyer. A lot of well-heeled car nuts now know about this particular car, and a deal can now be made outside the fishbowl of BaT. One of Esty's older projects that she sold a few years ago just sold on BaT this morning for what I believe is a good result. That type of sale seems more appropriate for BaT, to me. Just sayin'...
  21. Since the hole is there to simplify brake linkage servicing, you may want to do what I did. Attach a piece of galvanized sheet metal with sheet metal screws, and forget about the foam. The foam may be effective sound deadening (or not noticeable at all?) but in my car, at the time, sound deadening the pedal box wouldn't have helped much. A stock muffler would have made a bigger difference.
  22. Mark, not trying to be a pita (piece of flat bread? But that's pofb, no...), but the walls are only 2mm thick. Measuring across the outside, there are two walls so divide by two. This is not the first time someone has made that kind of miscalculation, ask me how I know.
  23. A box made from 2x8s (I think they're wide enough) on a piece of heavy plywood or a small pallet works well. The engine sits upright. Size it to fit the oil pan flange.
  24. I call it "That old German car smell". My '56 VW bug had it, Mrs. French's '65 230SL had it, and all 3 of my '02's have had it. Quite unmistakable, but not a really unpleasant scent. PS; Don't tell my wife it's from the horse hair. That would gross her out. I say it's the door cards. My '71 had no horse hair in it, at least not in the seats (anymore).
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