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Everything posted by JerryC

  1. I have only one photo of my first '02. It was taken with a Christmas tree hanging out of the trunk. -Jerry
  2. Consider drilling out and tapping for a larger diameter screw, metric of course. -Jerry
  3. May be time to consider drilling. I wouldn't do it without a drill press, so a machine shop may be your next stop. The more bunged up the screws are, the harder it gets. -Jerry
  4. Kayak(s) or windsurfer(s)...
  5. I don't remember that the heater valve screws are brass, I recall some rust on the valves I've had. You just never know what POs have done... You may want to try a hammer impact driver, but be careful to support the valve housing screw tabs so they don't bend. Or, I've had success numerous times just tapping (not pounding) on the screwdriver handle with a hammer while applying torque to the screwdriver. I found this fairly advance method, involves welding a nut to the screw head, on a Model T forum: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/506218/520212.html?1425263136 Or, take it to a machine shop.
  6. For the broken tabs, maybe you can "wire suture" the box back together as the final closing method, something like this: - while clamping the box halves together, drill two oversized holes through the box wall, one in each half opposite the thickened lip where the clip tabs used to be. - bend a piece of thinnish (14 gauge electrical wire comes to mind, 16 gauge if you can find it) solid copper wire into a "J" shape. - Pass the wire through one hole, and back out the other. - Using pliers, you should be able to pull the copper wire through to gain some working length. - Twist the free ends together, just enough to hold the box closed. - Trim the free ends. - Add some silicone sealer to close the drilled holes. Let us know what you end up doing. Good luck! -Jerry
  7. The turn signal relay is a serviceable part, i.e., you can get it working again. The black plastic cover comes off pretty easily, and you can see a couple of relay switches inside that can be adjusted until they get working again. -Jerry
  8. Doesn't look like there's an engine behind the seats. The side pipes start right behind the front wheels. Maybe the V8 is pushed as far back as it will go and that makes it "mid-engine". Regardless, looks like it will "go like stink". Nothing's quite as fast as stink. Edit: narrowed Ford 9" rear end is not a transaxle.
  9. These are a couple photos of 1968 1600-2 1561983, taken after my ownership. Built December, 1967. It sold a few years ago on BAT: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-bmw-1600/ The seats that are in it in these photos have been reupholstered in a slightly lighter shade of brown. When I owned it from '94 - '98 they were definitely already in need of some love. It looks like the door cards are the original color still, but the seats look to be a shade lighter. Search BAT for "BMW 1600" and you'll find a couple more examples of manila '02s.
  10. Search on Google for google image search, and there you are:
  11. I don't know which forum to put this in, so here it is. I did search, didn't find anything. Microlino, a Swiss company, has prototypes of this cute little beast running around town now. They're calling is a "heavy quadricycle" electric vehicle. https://microlino-car.com/en/microlino -Jerry
  12. This isn't for a restoration, but if all you want is a good repair, read on. Stainless steel wire wrapped around the clip lugs then twisted tightly makes for a durable repair. It lasted many years on all 3 heater boxes that I've repaired. All of them needed other non-stock repairs as well due to broken, brittle, old plastic. You can make a good sturdy box with the wire clamps and some home-made "improvements". Use backing washers that fit the rivets closely on all the rivets that grip directly on plastic. You'll most likely break the 45-50 year old plastic without them. Search for hot water valve repair tips. Making a bracket from sheet metal is not difficult. In reality, the bracket isn't all that necessary. The hoses will hold the valve in place well enough. Find some fairly thin open-cell foam sheet for the flap seals. Use trim adhesive to install it. The self-stick stuff may not stay on very long, and it's often too stiff to allow the doors to close completely. Check your local hardware store for rubber grommets. They often have some the fit the flap shafts. I've also found bronze bushings the fit the shafts, but you need to drill out the box to use those. They'll never wear out or become hard and brittle like the originals. Hope that helps.
  13. Hmm.... that hole looks too big and close to the edge. What about adding a pin as suggested earlier, or two, and a pair of M6 bolts threaded into the good part of the web? Spread the load away from the weakened area. Just thinkin'...
  14. +1 ... did the same on the '68 1600 I once had. Ended up rebuilding the heater box anyway. All the flap pads and cables were barely operational. Jerry
  15. BMW added a notch to the bulkhead lip to improve visibility of the flywheel timing marks on tii's. The intake plenum obstructs viewing of the timing marks. Many owners of earlier tii's added a notch for the same purpose. Jerry
  16. I saw one with probably an e30 dash at Fest West in Palo Alto in about 2003. AC supposedly worked, too, through the dash vents. Jerry
  17. Looks like a great driving project car. Good driver '02s are still out there, apparently. That one's about like mine, some original parts have been replaced along the way. The plenum bulkhead is definitely deformed, and the hood (bonnet) spring plate is missing between the bulkhead and the base of the windshield. On the bright side, you won't need a notch in the bulkhead to set timing. 😉 Jerry
  18. A competent machine shop (look for a job shop, it does not have to be an automotive machine shop) will be able to remove the broken bit. It will cost much less than a KF pump. A carbide drill bit will work on the broken torx bit to drill it out. I don't think that screw takes a torx bit, should use a hex bit.
  19. My previous '02, a '68 1600, had lumps in the hood from the inside directly over the strut mounts. Not sure how that happened, it came to me like that. I suspect that if you remove the plastic covers and shorten the strut rod, the only thing that will happen if the rubber fails is that the upper spring perch will be pressed against the inner fender, rendering steering very difficult. Jerry
  20. I think you should focus on the things that will make the car more fun to drive for you. Yes, get the title sorted. That keeps your car on the road without having to scan the rear view mirror all the time. If you like to drive with music, add that. It can cover some of the unwanted noises. Personally, I'd embark on a mechanical restoration starting with brakes and suspension. Brakes that work really well are actually quite satisfying, just get the stock brakes working like new and you may be surprised, they're pretty good. Next, steering and suspension. New bushings and steering joints make a quite noticeable difference in drivability. Get the best tires you want to afford, but make sure the suspension won't just wear them out prematurely. Upgrade the sway bars, and if you can, splurge for some good shocks. And, how are your tires (I already said that, I know). Tires can make the biggest noticeable difference in driving experience that you can do. Learn to tune the engine. If compression or leakdown tests are disappointing, hold off on the engine upgrades (carbs, cams, etc.) until you're money's ready to get the basic engine (pistons and valves that seal, all the oil stays inside, etc.) working well. You may not have to replace all the internals, maybe rings and a valve job will get you an engine that works well for 50,000 miles or so. Sounds like your reasons for wanting to do this are good ones, retreating to the garage can be a good release. Have fun with it. Jerry
  21. +1 The eyeball method works amazingly well to set the front wheels parallel to the rear wheels. Like AVG says, sight along the outer sidewalls until left and right are misaligned to the rear the same amount (lock the steering wheel horizontal while moving the tie rod ends). On my car, I replaced the steering box and made certain it was centered before mounting the steering wheel on the steering shaft in its final position. It's easy to be off one spline and not notice it.
  22. Go to realoem.com for parts lists: https://www.realoem.com/
  23. Answer is, "It depends". If you're comfortable with tinkering with high precision mechanisms (think jewelry music box parts, disassembling a cell phone camera, etc. for the right parts size range and precision level), you can fix some things in there yourself. If not, send it to a speedo shop. Here's a diagram illustrating how it works. The speedo cable connects to the input shaft which spins the magnet setting up the eddy currents, etc. The magnet creates drag on the cup, and the shaft rotation is opposed by the spring. The faster the magnet spins, the farther the needle rotates while winding up the spring. The spring is tiny, it looks like a watch spring.
  24. I ordered new shocks for my new-to-me RV through Amazon, (Koni's, yeah!). Order form stated 2 - 3 weeks delivery to ship from Florida to California. UPS delivered them in 3 days. Go figure.
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