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rjd2

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About rjd2

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  1. Hi folks-so my local engine block shop is going over the lower block from a stock 2002 for me. They want to replace the pistons due to wear, but they are finding pistons that are rated for a Tii motor(they can't be returned apparently). Before ordering, he wants to try to verify that they are identical. My understanding is that they are, but I wanted to ask here, as you folks would know better than I do. Can anyone confirm? Thanks.
  2. alrighty! new starter, new intake manifold gaskets, maybe a carb rebuild, and i'm back on the road. we've still got 3 months of driving weather before the salt starts!!!! thanks folks
  3. I've got a garage, tools, etc. so if the head swap is not rocket science, then it sounds like a new head gasket would be a smart move.
  4. lol you guys aren't making it any easier!!! my main question is really this: IF this engine ever gives up the ghost, what is the most likely culprit? head gasket, or otherwise? i don't NEED to do a knock down drag out 5 star engine on this car, as i am slowly building a '73 that WILL be my knock down, drag out, A+ E10. that one will get all the fixins. it also won't be done til two thousand who fucking knows. i can afford to do the trans swap at a later time. the more i think on it, i'd really love to NOT pull the block. any thoughts on how big/small a job it is at this point to swap the head would be awesome. if it's not a 20 hour job, i could swap em, new gasket, drive this one, and have the old one rebuilt while i'm waiting for stuff on my '73. or i could chuck this new starter in now and drive the car in 2 days....
  5. Hi all, so as of last week, I was in the pursuit to suss a starter not engaging. After pulling the battery cables, cleaning them, re-attempting start, and then even hot wiring directly to the starter solenoid, all with the same result(starter just whirrs, does not crank), I went nuclear last night and today, and pulled the carb+intake manifold+drained coolant+drained oil+pulled starter motor. And of course, I am now thinking "big picture". A bit of history: When I acquired this '76 E10, the suspension, braking, and cooling systems had all been upgraded to newly modern components(at a great expense). the car has brand new wilwood brakes, sway bars, bilstein shocks, etc etc. I then blew the car apart, and had it professionally repainted. I then re-installed the glass, redid the upholstery, and got the car on the road, and have enjoyed it for a good year(prior to my starter issue). The one thing that never got attended to, to my knowledge EVER, was the engine. So, I'm considering while I took it this far, to go the extra mile, and do some degree of engine rebuild. the car leaks a minor amount of oil. A few ancillary things to mention: in my possession(out of this car) is a newly rebuilt cylinder head, and a newly rebuilt getrag 245 trans. the engine bay never got painted when the car got painted. there is a part of me that is thinking that now that i should either: A) pull head( inspect lower block), install new head w/ gasket, pull oil pan, install new pan gasket, re-install and go. or b) pull the entire drivetrain, rebuild it all with the new 5 speed, and have a fully rebuilt '76. the odometer shows 39k. i guess it's possible, but seems more likely it's 139k. from what little i know, the gaskets on the motor don't look to show a ton of wear. not new, but not ragged looking. i really love the car, and i'm really eager to get it back on the road, but i want to be mindful of the big picture. so, any thoughts would be much appreciated! (one last ancillary piece of info: if i were to pull the lower block and have it machined to tolerance, it would take FOREVER. the only shop in my city that does this has been sitting on another 4 cylinder lower block of mine for the last 8 months and haven't touched it. nobody else in town does this work).
  6. Here's some pics of my battery terminals. The starter motor now just whirrs at the ignition switch(same if I hot wire the solenoid to +12V). I can pull the cables and clean them, but I've tried the same thing with my lithium jumper, and I get the same results. I spoke to my local preferred mechanic, and he said it is likely that the starter motor has failed, or that there is a chip in the flywheel.... Oh, and for the record, on my car the starter motor engaging only works with the top push tab connected, not the bottom one.
  7. RE: terminal cleaning; I can give that a shot. Nothing has moved, or been removed, since the last time I installed the battery(terminals were cleaned upon install).
  8. It's just a weird artifact of the photo. The red wire is a "non-car" strip of 14ga wire that I used to trace that lead. I lodged it into the black female socket of the mystery loose wire at the block so I could trade the other end of that female socket mystery wire. I found that it traces to the black lead at the ignition switch. The black female socket just looks burned cause of how the flash of my phone fired; it's not burned.
  9. Thanks guys. I am 99% sure it's not the battery. At rest, the battery reads 12.8V. Battery is fairly new. I A) left it on a trickle charger til it was deemed fully charged. I also tried cranking it with a lithium jumper battery tied across the battery. All gave the same behavior-a single click at the ignition, followed by no crank. In the attached images, you will see the starter-the right side large terminal ties to V+ battery terminal. You will see a non-socketed tab on both the top and the bottom. The red wire in the other picture is leads to the only loose wire I can find anywhere in the engine bay(I was just using the red wire seated in it to trace; it comes up the side of the lower block along with 2 other larger wires). I traced it with a DVM, and it reads 0 ohms at the black terminal of the keyed ignition switch in the cabin of the car. When I seat it at the bottom terminal, I get nothing. If I seat it at the top terminal it will crank once or twice, and then whirr. I'm scared to hold the key down any longer than 1 second or so, as it just does not sound right at all. Any further thoughts?
  10. re: wiring diagram. I have; the schematic in the user manual has VERY small type. with that said, it appears to only show a V+, earth, and ignition coil connection. V+ is the big +12V wire to battery, earth looks to be tied to chassis, and the 3rd lead is the "mystery wire". per the original '76 manual, it does not show 5 pinouts.
  11. Buckeye: yes, upper tab is narrower than lower tab. on my car, pin 15 of the ignition coil runs in a blue sheath into the left fender/firewall area. Hard to know where it terminates, since it goes in a hole. Does that sound right? as for 3 pins on the starter, I am at a loss, as I can only find ONE loose wire anywhere in the entire engine bay. It seems highly improbable that 3 leads on my starter motor would come loose simultaneously, but I guess stranger things have happened....
  12. Thanks Tom! I am trying to trace the pin 15 of the ignition coil, and it's proving difficult(it returns through the firewall). I only have one loose wire, as best I can tell, so it appears as though it would be either the top tab or the bottom tab of the starter motor. As best I can tell, the bottom tab connects to the ignition switch, and the top tab SHOULD connect to pin 15 or the ignition coil? (do I have that right?) rectifying internet data against the schematics is tough. factory schematics appear to only have V+, earth, and one tab connected. internet wiring seems to show 2 tabs connected. with the bottom tab connected to my lone loose wire, it won't crank. with the top tab connected, it cranks once, and then whirrs. maybe i fried a starter in my cavalier troubleshooting and now deserve an awesome intake disassembly.....
  13. Hi all-so out of the blue, my '76 '02 refused to turn over this week-just a single click at the ignition. I investigated, and found the battery at 12V, all the fuses and relays intact, and a single wire dangling loose below the starter motor(it is connected to a harness clip on the side of the block, there are 3 wires in that harness clip). The +12V line that hard wires to the battery is intact and connected. There are two unconnected tabs on the starter motor, one on the top, and one of the bottom. I don't see a 3rd wire connected to the starter motor, which, per my forum searches, it appears there should be. Can anyone advise which pin this wire should go to? In the attached image, I have reconnected the loose wire to the TOP most tab on the starter. I can feel a tab at the very bottom of the starter as well that does not have a wire connected to it. Thanks for any help!
  14. I could visibly see that arm bow when the lock was thrown. My car is a '76 but I have no idea what the doors are from!
  15. fixed it. the C shaped metal piece that throws the whole mechanism was bent inwards; after bending it towards the doorjamb, it throws up and down nicely. will lube and re-install. thanks guys!


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