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Robocopywriter

Solex
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  1. As previously commented on, having to match ports is a given but when the mounting holes are neither in the right location nor drilled straight, that's a problem, especially when trying to fit precision ITBs with a 3 piece fuel rail that, trust me, needs to be absolutely straight.
  2. Could be interested in the spare wheel well for 100.
  3. Anybody can take an existing manifold, cast it, measure it, machine it, drill it and reproduce it accurately. Your only guarantee is the integrity/reputation of the seller, which you don't always get with an internet buy.
  4. May be the best way to go, pretty reasonable for a complete kit and since they're manufacturing they should take pride in their work. Matching the ports is just a given and no big deal.
  5. lol I tried to test fit ITBs to it and a couple of holes were off by half a tenth and none of them were drilled straight. Alpina one probably expensive no?
  6. Had to disregard a current popular choice due to poor quality control on the manufacturing. Seems like there ought o be a few options but I am not finding much in the U.S.
  7. So let's recap. A voltage drop indicates an "open circuit," right? On my 12 fuse system, there is a solid yellow wire that is a 100% closed circuit to the fuse box connector from the switched relay. That connector feeds 2 fuses and two separate wires, one to each low beam. The connection between the relay wire and the fuse box is good, because if I remove both fuses there's a full charge at both the positive poles on the fuse mounts. If I insert EITHER fuse both poles drop to 8.2 volts, which is weird because it seems like two wires with exactly the same problem. (Or is there something about electricity I don't understand lol). If one of those wires (driver: yellow and black. passenger: yellow and blue) is not properly connected somewhere will that cause both to act the same? A three beer imoji to anyone who can solve this riddle.
  8. I've been trying to set up my 02 with LED headlights that have an operating range from 9 to 16 volts. The low beams light but not enough to be visible until they have been on for about 10 minutes then they come to life (both lights acting the same at the same time). The circuit at the bulb, at the relay, and at the 2 headlight fuses when tested show 8.2 volts (just not enough). But if I pull the connector off the back of the fuses and check the solid yellow wire it reads a full 12.5 volts (battery power only). With the fuses removed both positive fuse terminals read 12.5. With either fuse removed the reading drops back to 8.2. Grounds have all been replaced and are 100%. Can anyone tell me what the solution is? TIA
  9. Can anyone tell me why I only get a 5 volt reading of the green wire feed by the good latch? I ran a good ground all the way to the negative battery terminal. But still only showed 5 volts.
  10. Old thread but ... us new guys will keep coming along to find this stuff. According to the diagrams I'm seeing, there is no "extra" load on the ignition switch that would come from the relay side of the circuit. All power comes from the live red wires going directly to the ignition switch. Conclusion: removing this old piece of junk will have no effect on the ignition switch at all.
  11. So the good news is the cam timing was perfect. Three cheers for sticking a skinny extension in the spark plug hole to find TDC. Never did see the ball on the flywheel and made my own timing marks on the pulley and the flywheel. Thanks once again to everyone for making this easy and saving me hours/days figuring it out on my own.
  12. I have been waiting for soneone to comment on the oil spray pipe! It’s not right is it,
  13. I have read this. But no cracks in the cap. Not even displaced. Mounts look good, but they'll get changed anyway when I do the engine build. For now just trying to have a little fun with it before I start next phase of the work, and get it as far as the alignment shop for all my new suspension mods.


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