Steering Column Refresh

[JohnP_02]

Hi all, I have the steering column from my 69 that I need to prepare for reinstall and looking for some help with a few items related to replacement and refreshing. My biggest concern is that it is in unknown condition, as the car was non-running for over 20+ years. I would like to try to disassemble the entire unit if its possible?

 

 

1) Through searches on the forum I have seen a few threads on replacing the steering bearing, should I do this since the column was well used but in unknown condition? What would the proper steps in disassemble be for this.

 

2) I have a new complete ignition assembly I would like to use, but I have no idea how to remove the current assembly. 

 

Thanks in advance for how to proceed with this project! John

 

[tzei]

1) push the collar against coil spring to reweal snap ring. Pry it out.

2) saw/cut/grind slots for flat screwdriver. Open bolts. Key is nice to unlock steering lock. If no key then you’ll need to disassembly ignition. Iirc there is a small cotter pin that needs to come off. Little digging is reguired.

Edited September 12, 2023 by tzei

[Son of Marty]

Screw extractors work well for removing those bolts, I think you'll find the bearings just need to be cleaned and lube, if rust hasn't at work on them.

[PapaG]

I would definitely replace the bearing, they are not cheap but you are in there, do it now. It can be difficult to press back in there but will be worth it. Also clean any and all grime and grease out of the steering lock if there is one, this is not easy either but you can get in there and get it working nice and smooth. I used Dawn and brake cleaner, it made a lot of difference.

 

Also, take photos as you disassemble the miscellaneous parts/washers at the end where the spring is. Or notes, just keep careful track of it so when you put it back together you have something to look at.

[Mark92131]

You might want to check the continuity on those switches.  On the turn signal switch you should have continuity between pin "54" and pin "R" and "L" when the switch is switched for right and left turns.  The same for the parking lights, pin "P" and "PR" and "PL" when the switch is switched for right and left turns.  The "H" should have continuity to ground when the stalk is pulled to the rear of the car.

 

The high beam switch has multiple inputs and outputs, 30 is power from the ignition switch, 56 to your light pull switch, 56a to the blue light on the dash and 56b to your headlight.  Check the continuity to those pins when the high beam switch is engaged (down and back) and see if power will flow properly when engaged.

 

It will save you time when it's all back together and something isn't working.  Don't ask me how I know.

 

Mark92131

[Mike Self]

If you're just replacing the ignition lock assembly, you don't have to drill out those break-off bolts in your second picture.  The lock cylinder assembly is held in place in its housing by a small roll pin at the base of the housing.  Drill it out and the lock cylinder comes right out.  Replacing the electrical portion of the ignition lock is from the back side and doesn't require removing the lock cylinder.  

 

As for the steering shaft bearing:  mine are original 227k and 274k and are still nice and tight (no side-to-side or up-and-down motion when trying to move the steering wheel sideways.  So yours may not need replacing.

 

mike

[71bmr02]

remember you'll need to preload the steering rod. I'd go into the procedure but it has been more than adequately discussed on the faq. do a simple search "preload steering column".  

 

 

[jgerock]

And the space between the steering column to horn contact ring needs to be adjusted at the steering box to steering shaft coupler.  

[wojo]

The bearing on my column was sloppy so it was replaced.  Check everything else, but if you think you need to replace the  bearing, here is the column I wrote about replacing it.

 

[M3This]

Anyone have tips on removing the C clip above the spring? Normal c-clip pliers don’t work. 

[PapaG]

I think I got a thin flat head screwdriver to spread the gap and gently pushed it out of the groove with a second screwdriver. It is difficult but that is what I recall doing.

 

[M3This]

4 hours ago, PapaG said:

I think I got a thin flat head screwdriver to spread the gap and gently pushed it out of the groove with a second screwdriver. It is difficult but that is what I recall doing.

 

 

 

Thanks. I was able to get it off, but man what a PIA. 

 

Has anyone used real C-clips when putting it back on instead? They at least would be easier to remove if ever needed to do it again. 

[JohnP_02]

Making some progress (sorry, I am slow and only get about 15 min a night to work on car stuff). The lock assembly did come somewhat loose once I unscrewed the side screw. I do have some screw extractors, so I may just use them as it’s still a bit stuck. 
 

I the spring and set at the top actually look pretty clean, I don’t think I will mess with the bearing. 

 

I think I may just hit these with some rust remover, some sanding and fresh spray paint to clean them up? 

 

Pretty cool to see how the tamper proof screws in the NOS assembly are built to break off after tightening