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Engine Install - 9 days later


PeterCS

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My apologies for the barrage of posts but no luck after nine days. I did get the gap yesterday to less than an inch but no further.

 

One of my problems is the angle of the engine. I have mounted it on the driver side of the engine which must be 20 degrees off what it should be. see the attached picture. 

 

The task would be easier if I could get the engine angle closer to what it should be. But there is no where to attach the chain on the passenger side of the engine unless I wrap it thru the exhaust manifold. 

 

Any suggestions out there (and many thanks for all the help so far!)

 

Peter

 

 

BMW Inka engine angle.png

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you're not going to like my suggestion... You have been struggling with this for 9 days, clearly...its not working. You are unable to apply the needed "english" (combination of lift, angles and force) needed to mate the engine to trans OR something is binding/not lined up.

Either way, you're stuck and you could end up damaging something.

Remove the engine, remove your transmission, mate together  outside your car and install as a unit.

Would that really be any more painful than the shit storm your are currently trapped in?

Sorry.

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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1 hour ago, PeterCS said:

My apologies for the barrage of posts

 

The number of posts is due to the struggle, but I don't see the need for multiple threads on the same topic.  It is easier to help when you can read about what has already been tried and keeping the story in one thread makes that a lot easier.

 

I have not had my engine out, so I doubt I'll have any constructive advice, but I will list the other three threads below.

 

 

 

 

 

   

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As above, wrap something soft (rope or better still a ratcheting strap tie-down ) around the manifold and attach the other end to teh main lift hook. You don't want too much angle on the engine since the trans will eventually hit the top of teh tunnel. I had to jiggle the engine angle and the trans bell housing on a jack to line them up. If teh gap is even,  you might try the guide bolts. 

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Sometimes when your in a Snafu you have to make a tactical retreat and start over.

 

I would pull the engine back out, remove the exhaust manifold and use the studs to mount the hoist chains. I would use a level to get the engine in sitting on the hoist at the same angle as the car. To get the engine clocked correctly the bottom of the oilpan should be parallel to the cars bottom.

 

Ratcheting straps can be used to make minor adjustments and hold things in place.

 

You can use the starter bolts without the starter to pull engine into the transmission when you get close.

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4 hours ago, VWJake said:

verify the pilot bearing is sized correctly for the tip of the main shaft

To echo same point... I just had to pull the gearbox on a Lotus for a 2nd time because the new clutch plate was binding on the splined shaft...lesson learned: check plate slides freely on spline before install. (& check the pilot bush also)

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'59 Morris Minor, '67 Triumph TR4A, '68 Silver Shadow, '72 2002tii, '73 Jaguar E-Type,

'73 2002tii w/Alpina mods , '74 2002turbo, '85 Alfa Spider, '03 Lotus Elise

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I would worry about damaging something if to much force is used, start over with transmission mounted to engine outside of the car…it’s a lot easier. Keep space between them even they almost fall together when aligned correctly, jack front of car up to install as a unit…

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Don’t let the fear of what could happen

make nothing happen…

 

  

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got the engine in.

If asked, I would recommend removing the transmission and attaching it to the engine on the bench and then re-installing the entire unit. 

Connecting the two was not easy even on the bench. Ended up squeezing it together by slowly tightening the bolts. 

All in all, a total pain.

Many thanks for all your help.

PeterCS

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Next time install from under the car. Super easy to drop the subframe with engine and trans and install as well. Glad you got it put in!

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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On 9/12/2021 at 9:47 PM, dlacey said:

.lesson learned: check plate slides freely on spline before install. (& check the pilot bush also)

Yes, very good advice.

I always apply just a smidge of grease to clutch plate splines as well.

Not enough to fling around, just a light coat applied with a brush.

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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20 hours ago, PeterCS said:

All in all, a total pain.

As with most things, it does get easier with practice?

 

17 hours ago, roadhog0 said:

Next time install from under the car. Super easy to drop the subframe with engine and trans and install as well.

Its the only way to go when working solo IMHO?

Thinking about investing in one of those Harbor Freight lift tables for next time, heard they work well and maneuvering a hoist in my garage is problematic.

Hopefully the MaxJax has become a reality by then. That would be sweet.

IMG_1525 2.JPG

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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