123 Distributor. Which one?

[Vicleonardo1]

The choices are:

1. Switched: 16 preset curves. 

2. Wired (USB) programmable 

3. Bluetooth (Wireless) programmable. 

 

Questions:  For those that purchased the switched version.

 

1. How has that worked for you? (I really haven't seen any complaints.) 

2. Have you discovered any deficiencies? 

3. Do you wish you purchased a programmable one? 

 

For those with the programmables: 

 

1. Did you have to change or tweak the curves a lot? 

2. Was the process difficult? and/or did it take a long time? 

 

For those like me that are afraid of opening the hood: 

Does one need to find a specialty shop to have one installed and dialed in? 

or could I drive up to Mintgrun's or Toby's house and chat (over some very expensive hand-delivered Cognac) and hope that they would demonstrate for me how one is installed and tuned? (Re-thinking this option... it may be cheaper to find a shop.....)  

[jrhone]

I have the Bluetooth version.  I like it because curves are eas6 to tweak. Once you get it right you leave it alone.  It also has an immobilized which is nice if you want to prevent the car from being started.  The benefit of programmable is you can build a curve for YOUR engine.  Engines and mods may be similar but most are not the same.  For example I have a 292 cam an alot of people say the idle can be lumpy. With the Programmable distributor you can add more advance at idle only to smooth the idle. My car purs at idle.   

[7502]

I'm sure i'm in the minority. I purchased the switched version w/ vacuum shortly after I bought my car, I've never had a smart phone or laptop I'm even still operating a giant desktop gaming type computer I built from scratch 10 yrs ago, so the programmable one was not an option. The 123's are easy to set up following the instructions. In my case the car started up first try and so far has never missed a beat.  Having different programs does let you feel like have some flexibility to play around and test different settings for performance and drive-ability. I don't regret not getting the programmable one but I've never heard anyone on the forums mention that they just bought the plane-Jane switched version though. I wanted something that had less potential to fail down the line. If you need a new distributor I think it's a worthwhile choice but only time will tell. I wonder how many years they might last. I put about 7000 miles on mine last year. Hope for another 10 years!

Eric

[jrhone]

You won’t regret it. It’s a great upgrade especially if you have an old dizzy.  

[Sharktrainer]

I have had zero issues with my Bluetooth +

[Kingryan86]

Definitely get the Bluetooth version. It installs in 10 minutes and you are back on the road. It took an additional 60 seconds to add a curve that I had written down from one of the other faq members. 

Best money spent on my 02 by far

[GazM3]

Locally the Bluetooth is not available.  Does the USB one just plug into smartphone or laptop?

[jgerock]

2 hours ago, GazM3 said:

Locally the Bluetooth is not available.  Does the USB one just plug into smartphone or laptop?

I have the USB version in the 69. Hooks up to a laptop, desktop or tablet with the included cable.  I haven't changed the curve in mine yet- it runs pretty darn good.

[2002Scoob]

15 hours ago, jrhone said:

I have the Bluetooth version.  I like it because curves are eas6 to tweak. Once you get it right you leave it alone.  It also has an immobilized which is nice if you want to prevent the car from being started.  The benefit of programmable is you can build a curve for YOUR engine.  Engines and mods may be similar but most are not the same.  For example I have a 292 cam an alot of people say the idle can be lumpy. With the Programmable distributor you can add more advance at idle only to smooth the idle. My car purs at idle.   

Not to side-track, but what's your carb, wheres your Idle, and degree of advance are you at? Always curious about other's 292 curves :) 

[jrhone]

I’ll pull the curve and look. Ken Blasko did the engine work and refresh of the bottom end and dialed it in pretty good.  I can’t take any credit for the curve lol.  It’s a Weber 38, idle is about 800 rpm.  

[2002Scoob]

Whoa... 800 and purring? Yep. I'm most intrigued. I wouldn't call my idle a full-on purr, it's pretty darnd good, but i'm closer to 950 for smoothest idle. 800 gets a lil' lumpy. 

 

Edit- To the OP, here's a great example why the tuneable versions are great  I have a bluetooth. To change your map (once you've confirmed that your timing is dialed), all ya do is put your key in, turn to 'run', hop on the app (connects automatically), and move your points around, and save. 

 

Done. It's great. Buy one.

Edited June 13, 2018 by 2002Scoob

[GazM3]

Just ordered from local distributor the Bluetooth version.  My dizzy rotates anti-clockwise.  Not sure if this is normal way.  The local distributor stated it can be electronically set up to go either direction but I guess it’s important to have the correct gear at the base where it links to the camshaft 

[michaelbend]

Just installed a 123 ignition (switched version) today.

I´m using advance curve number 1.  I have to admit this is kind of confusing.  According to 123 ignition manual  I should have to use curve number 0, but according to my distributor number (180 005) i should have to use curve number 1.

My car is a ´74 1602, and my distributor number is 180 005 instead of 004 as stated on 123 installation manual.

 

BTW.  I´m using a Bosch Red coil.

First impressions.  Car is running way better tan points.  More sensitive.  More quick response,  but in higher rpm´s i´m feeling weird engine vibrations... maybe i should be using a blue coil???

 

Will check timing again tomorrow.

Any advice / comment would be really appreciated!

Edited April 18, 2019 by michaelbend

[michaelbend]

On 6/12/2018 at 4:57 PM, Vicleonardo1 said:

The choices are:

1. Switched: 16 preset curves. 

2. Wired (USB) programmable 

3. Bluetooth (Wireless) programmable. 

 

Questions:  For those that purchased the switched version.

 

1. How has that worked for you? (I really haven't seen any complaints.) 

2. Have you discovered any deficiencies? 

3. Do you wish you purchased a programmable one? 

 

For those with the programmables: 

 

1. Did you have to change or tweak the curves a lot? 

2. Was the process difficult? and/or did it take a long time? 

 

For those like me that are afraid of opening the hood: 

Does one need to find a specialty shop to have one installed and dialed in? 

or could I drive up to Mintgrun's or Toby's house and chat (over some very expensive hand-delivered Cognac) and hope that they would demonstrate for me how one is installed and tuned? (Re-thinking this option... it may be cheaper to find a shop.....)  

 

As a matter of price I have chosen the switched version... saved almost a hundred over the Bluetooth...  IMOHO with 16 advance curves I think once switched, won´t touch it anymore...

So far so good.  Way better than points in driving feeling.

[Simeon]

51 minutes ago, michaelbend said:

Just installed a 123 ignition (switched version) today.

I´m using advance curve number 1.  I have to admit this is kind of confusing.  According to 123 ignition manual  I should have to use curve number 0, but according to my distributor number (180 005) i should have to use curve number 1.

My car is a ´74 1602, and my distributor number is 180 005 instead of 004 as stated on 123 installation manual.

 

BTW.  I´m using a Bosch Red coil.

First impressions.  Car is running way better tan points.  More sensitive.  More quick response,  but in higher rpm´s i´m feeling weird engine vibrations... maybe i should be using a blue coil???

 

Will check timing again tomorrow.

Any advice / comment would be really appreciated!

 

As Toby would point out, these cars have one camshaft (well, maybe 2) but about a dozen different distributor combinations. Just verify that the 180 005 is the one originally installed on your engine. I wouldn’t trust 123 to get that right but at the same time I would not rely on what you find being installed either. 

 

Could these “weird engine vibrations” be ‘pinging’ (detonation, preignition etc)?

 

How did you set your timing? Ball at 1,400rpm? Again, when you are verifying the distributor model from the BMW manual check what timing specification they give for that distributor.   This assumes that you are timing it to the book.