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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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1/2 way through the DCOE install. Started this morning. What do I do to connect the one heater core port to the back of the head port? I can't find a part # for what looks like an appropriate hose on RealOEM or anywhere in this forum..... Of course every squiggly hose looks like every other online.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, man_mark_7 said:

That is one clean machine! Very nice. Those little details bug the heck out of me too. Tell us about your garage setup - why the plywood floor?! 

 

That's the million dollar question - the garage was built by the previous owner. My guess is that since the garage is a prefab construction, the plywood floor was the easiest (cheapest?) way to go.

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58 minutes ago, man_mark_7 said:

 

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That smaller strap coming off of the negative battery post typically runs over and attaches to the inner fender, along with a pile of brown wires, in front of the brake reservoir; with the larger strap connected to the block, down in front of the starter.  There is usually a separate ground wire that runs from the alternator over to one of the little bolts holding the upper timing chain cover on.  It wants to be at least a ten gauge wire.  You don't have to do it that way, but I do think you will want to have a ground run between the battery and the body.

 

Tom

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1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

That smaller strap coming off of the negative battery post typically runs over and attaches to the inner fender, along with a pile of brown wires, in front of the brake reservoir; with the larger strap connected to the block, down in front of the starter.  There is usually a separate ground wire that runs from the alternator over to one of the little bolts holding the upper timing chain cover on.  It wants to be at least a ten gauge wire.  You don't have to do it that way, but I do think you will want to have a ground run between the battery and the body.

 

Tom

Many thanks for pointing this out! Still rectifying some odd fettling by PO's. This is my first '02 so it's all news to me. I'm guessing / hoping that connecting the battery ground directly to these brown wires might help with some of the issues I have with the gauges jumping when I flip on the lights......

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21 minutes ago, man_mark_7 said:

I'm guessing / hoping that connecting the battery ground directly to these brown wires might help with some of the issues I have with the gauges jumping when I flip on the lights

 

It'll also keep the throttle return spring from glowing red-hot.  :) 

 

Another way to potentially improve the gauges is to add a ground that connects to the two brass nuts on the backside of the cluster.  I used a strip of copper to connect them and bent a tab up to connect a wire, then ran that to ground.

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Edited by '76mintgrün'02
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23 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

That smaller strap coming off of the negative battery post typically runs over and attaches to the inner fender, along with a pile of brown wires, in front of the brake reservoir; with the larger strap connected to the block, down in front of the starter.  There is usually a separate ground wire that runs from the alternator over to one of the little bolts holding the upper timing chain cover on.  It wants to be at least a ten gauge wire.  You don't have to do it that way, but I do think you will want to have a ground run between the battery and the body.

 

Tom

I installed a nice hefty ground this eve while waiting on some float needles. I got the Webers installed enough to turn on the electric fuel pump tonight. All looked good until fuel started pouring out of the rear carb. The existing needle was just a bit too crusty and was catching in the needle holder. It's so hard to wait for such a simple part.....

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Started on repairing my door frame :)

 

 

I printed a couple dies to remake the corner pieces of the door frame

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Basic shape was there but some adjustment was needed

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A little bit of work with the hammer and chisel..

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Welded!

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And finished

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Next up was removing the lower flange of the door frame. I got new plates bend up at a local fab shop

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Ready to weld in!

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9 hours ago, D.martijn said:

Started on repairing my door frame :)

 

 

I printed a couple dies to remake the corner pieces of the door frame

 

Basic shape was there but some adjustment was needed

 

 

A little bit of work with the hammer and chisel..

50282620806_78588a891f_b.jpg

 

Welded!

 

 

And finished

 

 

 

 

Next up was removing the lower flange of the door frame. I got new plates bend up at a local fab shop

 

 

Ready to weld in!

 

 

 

 

Those are some mad skills you've got there. True craftsmanship. 

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Installed oetiker clamps to my new boots, filled with Red Line MT 90 oil and checked for leaks before installing. PN for clamps were CV74band7 for large clamps and OV40band7 for small Clamps from bell metric. This size worked fine for clear boots on a 67. 

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Pulled the trim off and started working on the rust beneath while my son pulled out the rear seats and began work on the floor.  
 

Also, sunroof still works ??  Floor mats need a serious scrubbing.  These seem intact other than the drivers side on the gas pedal side. 

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