What did you do to your 2002 today !

[Stevenc22]

11 hours ago, 2002#3 said:

Finished POR-15ing inner door bottoms. 

Now, putting rehabbed, refinished, refined, regrommeted, rechanneled, and regreased door innerds back in...

 

POR in the bottom of the doors is the way to go. I literally take half a cup of POR and slosh it about the bottom of the doors. Create that epoxy barrier to future rain and moisture entering the seams. Nice job.

[2002#3]

Steven,

A few area, say 10% of the PS bottom door seam, is rusted through to the outside.  After the complete POR15 thing of ALL bottom door areas incld the seams, would you add a seam body putty in the entire DS and PS seams (on top of the POR epoxy) to keep the water disciplined, out of the rusted-through areas, and not allowed to enter the seams at all, even though the seams are PORed.  Make sense?

Larry

 

[its55]

1 hour ago, 2002#3 said:

Steven,

A few area, say 10% of the PS bottom door seam, is rusted through to the outside.  After the complete POR15 thing of ALL bottom door areas incld the seams, would you add a seam body putty in the entire DS and PS seams (on top of the POR epoxy) to keep the water disciplined, out of the rusted-through areas, and not allowed to enter the seams at all, even though the seams are PORed.  Make sense?

Larry

 

 

Not sure how well it would adhere. 

[D.martijn]

This Saturday we made more progress and should be able to weld in the two halves of the left wheel housing / shock tower in for good. It's quite the challenge to be honest.

Unfortunately it's not possible to get the outer halves for the Touring, other wise I would have spend the money and get them!

 

We started of with reattaching the stud bracket to fix the car jack. I had ordered one from W&N but the stud itself was a lot shorter (it's just a Philips head bolt welded on to a plate). However I was able to scavenge this one of the cutted up shell we once got for the Touring as a parts car/shell.

 

 

 

Next up was spot welding the two halves of the left wheel well/shocktower together.

Very happy with the result, this is the reason why we decided to remove the outer wheel housing as well, so we could use the spot welder to weld them together! Saves a lot of time drilling, deburring and grinding plug welds

 

First inner row done, the outer lip of the orange wheel well was sitting a little proud of the lip of the BMW shock tower panel.

With some bessy clamps we were able to move it a couple of mm more.

As some of you might notice, we didn't fully weld the wheel housing together (lower reinforcement section). We still need to have some wiggle room to persuade the lip a little bit more, some pictures later on will make this clear.

 

 

Other side

 

The genuine BMW panels comes with some clamps welded onto it but on the wrong spots for the Touring model. Luckily we already made loads of these clamps so we attached them on the correct side and place.

If you are interested in purchasing these clamps, I still have some.

 

With the correct chamfer to not cut the wires/wiring loom, just as original

 

 

And applied some paint on the welded areas

 

 

Last test fit in the car, should be able weld it in for good (finally!)

Just need to take some time to measure everything

 

 

Here you can see the lip of the orange panel sitting a little but to much to the rear of the car. We should be able to push this more to the front so everything aligns correctly

 

 

And the BIG gaping hole is closed! haha

 

 

 

Edited April 15, 2023 by D.martijn

[David Layton]

As I have not found the ideals faceplate for my c series Frankfurt, I bought a Stoddard metal plate meant for a 911. Trimmed to fit console and covered with leftover basket weave material. 

[Dug Nichols]

Headline: Today I did the relay install and wiring for fog lights. Woot! Almost ready for The Vintage

 

I bought my '73 Sahara in 2018 from the original owner and it came with Cibie 35 fog lights (rectangle, mounted on top of bumper), one clear lens and one yellow, and wired from the battery all the way into an under-dash add-on switch, and back to the lamps. Baaaaad juju power in the cabin there.

 

Over the winter a fellow FAQ'er offered up a box of Cibie 35 lamps and extras and I snapped them up, as I only had the clear/yellow lenses (one on each). Nice! The parts allowed me to set up dual yellow up front and I could swap to dual clear if I find that's better, and to boot two extra working bulbs in the package. Yay! I found a vintage Hella relay with appropriate patina on Ebay. 

 

Via the glorious FAQ articles I'd researched about wiring fog lamps via a relay and a final question answered within a mere couple hours this morning, I was off and running to do the proper install with the relay. I opted to use the Rear Def switch on the dash (rear elements long spent) as my switch, and tapped into the Fuse 4 entry (solid yellow) for the trigger source. 

 

The installation was pretty straightforward, aside from a bit of troubleshooting for the passenger side light lamp, and now I've got the job done and it feels great. 

[2002#3]

Today, I happened to think a perfect repro Alpina 4-gauge pod might work well in my '70 project if it replaced the 3-pod plastic thingy.  The new pod should pair nicely with the in-progress engine rebuild.  This pod was made by '76mintgrün'02 and is an excellent example of exquisite metal work and the fabrication of a perfect reproduction of a sweet vintage part.

Photo 1:  my car with a '76mintgrün'02 Alpina Pod

Photo 2:  See the fabrication of this part in this post/link.

 

 

Edited April 17, 2023 by 2002#3
spelling error

[David Layton]

The faceplate worked out well.

[John76]

Gauges? We need more stinkin' gauges!

Added a vacuum gauge to my center cluster.

Moved the hazard button to the "manual choke spot" at the left of the steering wheel.

 

 

[popovm]

On 4/14/2023 at 6:06 AM, Stevenc22 said:

POR in the bottom of the doors is the way to go. I literally take half a cup of POR and slosh it about the bottom of the doors. Create that epoxy barrier to future rain and moisture entering the seams. Nice job.

 

Does this work on old doors with light rust on them already or are you talking new doors as a preventative? 

[2002#3]

popovm,

My original comments and questions were for old doors with rust in the inner and outer seams.  About 10% of one door seam was rusted through.  I will consider this area an additional water exit hole.  The same POR-15 approach likely applies to new doors, too.

[Stevenc22]

31 minutes ago, popovm said:

 

Does this work on old doors with light rust on them already or are you talking new doors as a preventative? 

i would treat the rust with a rust converter to neutralize the rust and then cover in POR

[Stevenc22]

20 minutes ago, 2002#3 said:

popovm,

My original comments and questions were for old doors with rust in the inner and outer seams.  About 10% of one door seam was rusted through.  I will consider this area an additional water exit hole.  The same POR-15 approach likely applies to new doors, too.

Hard top picture what you mean. I would rust convert everything and then seal with POR.

[2002#3]

Steven,

I did clean, degrease, convert, and PORed that area. 

By 10% I meant ~6" of the PS seam.

As you look inside an empty door, in the bottom where the flat bottom of the door meets the outer skin - that seam - and where the bottom of the outer skin folds inward and up over the bottom outer skin edge - that seam.  The two seams are continuous - outer to inner.  

Make sense?

[SydneyTii]

For those seams I would soak in anti rust, I use Bilt Hamber Dynax-S50, or one of their other products, I live very close to the Ocean and it works! It seeps into the seams and protects really well, if you use rust paint   you want to be sure there isn’t any moisture in those seams of you are just sealing it in, I think wurth do something similar in their anti rust products.