engine and drivetrain Replacement for interior plastic fuel line?

[Dudeland]

On 7/5/2016 at 5:00 PM, mike said:

+1 on retaining the original setup--factory plastic line inside the car, for a coupla reasons:

 

1.  As was stated, the OEM plastic line is self-sealing if heated to its melting point--why you shouldn't replace it with rubber fuel hose or any other non-metallic line if you follow the original path through the interior.  

2. A number of folks have utilized the existing metal fuel (fumes) return line that runs under the car on the later cars that are equipped with the charcoal and condenser canisters to capture fumes and return 'em to the gas tank.  Two objections to this:  first, it's more vulnerable to damage running under the car.  A piece of road debris could either puncture it or flatten it.  Second, it's gonna rust as it's a steel line.  In fact it may already be rusty, inside and out.  

 

I too had a problem with the plastic fuel line melting--while my auto body class instructor was showing me how to weld up a hole in the left rear rocker panel.  That's when I discovered it's possible to remove a 2002 back seat in two seconds--when it's on fire.  However, there was no fire from the fuel line, only the upholstery.  

 

Were it me, I'd stick with the original design.  It was done that way for a reason, and in 47 years of messing with 2002s I've never seen one burned up from a failure of this fuel line...

 

cheers

mike

 

You have all heard me say this.  Exactly how much does my passenger need to be on fire before it "self seals". 

 

Thinking of this further,  does this mean that if the line itself is on fire when it will eventually self-seal,  or does it mean that if it gets hot enough (external heat/fire source) that the heat (pre-ignition temps)  it will melt and seal? 

 

In either case, it requires the liquid inside needs to go somewhere in order for the line to close on itself, does it shrink like shrink tubing,  and push the fuel back into the tank and then seal?, or through the carb which means getting up over the 4-5 psi to push the fuel past the needle and seat. ? 

 

With my EFI conversion, I used stainless steel reinforced -6 line.  Not as neat as a solid line setup, but able to take a lot of abuse before breaking including rocks and other road debris. When/if it does leak,  the fuel is external to the main cabin. In this case, if on fire, it will likely get you the seconds you need to shut off your car, grab your fire extinguisher (always secured and within reach of the driver) and fight your way out. 

 

The other way, the fire inside the cab leaves you on fire, quickly blind, and feeling around for the fire extinguisher which may be attached to a part of the body that is now in a different place it was 5 seconds ago. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Clevis Woodruff]

Some additional thoughts . . .

 

The original plastic "melt-shut" fuel line was most likely designed in concert with an engine mounted mechanical fuel pump that would be pulling fuel from the tank.  Presuming there was a fire in the cabin and the engine was still running, the mechanical pump (hopefully) wouldn't be able to continue drawing fuel through a closed line.  Even if the line was cut, the pump would just be sucking air.  Only gravity would allow fuel to flow from the tank into an open line.

 

However, in applications where owners have installed an electric fuel pump in the trunk, there it's possible that even if the engine has stalled, an electric pump still connected to power would continue to push fuel into the line.  For such applications, my intuition is that a Nicopp or aluminum line (e.g., used in aircraft), whether inside the cabin or under the floor pan, would provide a margin of safety over a plastic or rubber line being cut or melted.

 

I'd like to hear thoughts about installing an inertia switch with trunk-mounted electric fuel pump that would open the electric circuit in the event of a car being on its side or roof.

[Stevenc22]

Inside and outside both have their issues. Outside means that hitting some road debris or a car accident could tear the line. Inside means fuel running near the passengers. 

 

An inertia switch on an electric fuel pump is not a terrible idea!

Edited November 14, 2019 by Stevenc22

[jimk]

32 minutes ago, Stevenc22 said:

Outside means that hitting some road debris or a car accident could tear the line.

It's better than death by fire.

 

1 hour ago, Clevis Woodruff said:

I'd like to hear thoughts about installing an inertia switch with trunk-mounted electric fuel pump that would open the electric circuit in the event of a car being on its side or roof.

I've been preaching this since 2006 on this board.

The vent line hasn't been used since 2004, It's abandoned in place.

Edited November 14, 2019 by jimk

[Son of Marty]

Definitely run a inertia switch on any set up with a electric fuel pump get one off any F/I ford at the pick and pull or someone recently posted one off Amazon for 15 bucks or so, some people run a oil pressure switch to cut off the pump in case of accidents but IMHO thats just not quick enough as the car may run for a minute or more just on the fuel left in the float bowl(s). Fire is obviously to be avoided always and to Jim's comment on the fire on the out side won't burn you to death is probably more wishful thinking than anything IMHO.  

 

[Harvanj]

Absolutely install an inertia switch. No downside, big upside.  

[John Hart]

I have a very stock 2002 with a fuel line that needs to be replaced.

 

I would like to keep it original and run a new plastic fuel line through the interior. But I'm intimidated about how to run the line; pull up seat, carpet, door trim? How to route through the firewall?

 

Anybody know where I can find some instructions, advice, etc, etc?

[Mark92131]

2 hours ago, John Hart said:

Anybody know where I can find some instructions, advice, etc, etc?

 

It runs along edge of the floor on the passenger side of the car.  You will need to remove the passenger side door sill cover an peal back the carpet to run it under the passenger seat.  There are bendable tabs along the floor and up the passenger side footwell to hold it.  It runs across the footwell about 3/4 of the way up and exits the cabin through a grommet near the heater box.

 

There are some photos in this thread to help you out.  I replaced mine with Copper/Nickel, the pictures shows the routing to the gas tank and exit at the firewall just in front of the middle drain.  Here's another picture of the gas line routing from under the back seat along with the blue emission line to the carbon canister.

 

Mark92131

Edited October 31, 2022 by Mark92131
photo

['76mintgrün'02]

On 10/30/2022 at 3:46 PM, John Hart said:

I have a very stock 2002 with a fuel line that needs to be replaced.

 

I would like to keep it original and run a new plastic fuel line through the interior. But I'm intimidated about how to run the line; pull up seat, carpet, door trim? How to route through the firewall?

 

Anybody know where I can find some instructions, advice, etc, etc?

 

You might want to check out this new thread.

 

 

Tom

[Markwemple]

FWIW, race cars run metal if it is run in the cockpit.  Plastic is prohibited. I prefer metal on the outside but shielded in some fashion,  and as far from ant heat source as possible.