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5spd clutch slave removal- methods used?


jerry

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well, i spent about an hour this afternoon finally dealing with a failing clutch. FAQ search lead me to a leaking Master or Slave cylinder. Turned out to be the Slave in my instance.

Anyhow, i had a hell of a time getting a 13mm socket to the upper nut. after a fair bit of wrangling underneath using a prybar and wooden wedge i was able to push the tranny just enough to BARELY get the socket seated on the nut sufficiently to engage. i used a short segment Snap-On extension that allows the socket to slightly swivel. the slight movement was critical as i did not have a straight shot. i attached another 12-14in extension to that, upon which i installed the ratchet. my ratcheting wrench was too fat to be of any use.

There is a casting boss on the 320i 5spd tranny that impedes a straight shot. if anyone can confirm that it is merely a casting boss and not an intentional feature for internal clearance then i would be tempted to grind it down abit on the next installation i do, for clearance.

during installation, i installed the lower nut first to square the Slave to the tranny. then i used a small bit of tape inside the socket to hold the nut while i finagled it onto the top stud. it was a bit of an effort but it worked.

Snap-On makes a C-shaped wrench that i would have tried if i had one. i tried to work from above but i found that i'd need double-jointed fingers to deal with the restricted access.

My next 5spd install, i'm gonna play around with bending the tranny tunnel a little more downstream to facilitate this effort in the future.

What methods/tools have others found helpful. i wanted to avoid dropping the engine or tranny and was ultimately successful.

Former owner of 2570440 & 2760440
Current owner of 6 non-op 02's

& 1 special alfa

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I believe I've done it with just regular craftsman wrenches, and a lot of time... you can just barely get a wrench in there in such a way to get some good torque on it. Then its just a long process of rotation after rotatio...

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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When I installed the 5 speed in my '72'02 I cut (gasp) a HOLE in the tunnel about 3"x4", just to the right of the gas pedal. I then screwed a copper sheet patch over the hole from the inside with short hex drive self tapping sheet metal screws. After six months the clutch seemed kind of mushy so I opened the little panel and bled the slave in about 5 minutes. I'm sure there are lots of reasons why this is a bad idea, (and I'm sure we'll hear a lot of them) but if the slave goes out again I'll bet I can swap it out in twenty minutes without even getting under the car.

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Get about 3 feet of extensions and approach it from the rear. I took notes on how to do it in case I forget.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Drill bits and a slide hammer can help you open up the tunnel from the inside if you just need a little extra space. A couple pieces of small asphalt adhesive flashing can be slipped over the holes to keep everything dry.

A couple beers helps with the patience.

Good luck.

Mike D

#73 2002 Racer...now with 20% more quack

Still to many parts....

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just did this today. I managed to get the top bolt by removing the throttle linkage and moving the feed tube to the slave from the pedal push rod. It gave me just enough space to get a 13" in through the top. It takes 10 or 15 little moves of the nut before you can start using your fingers.

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Same as JimK, I use a series of extensions (two 6" and one 10") and go in from the back. First I fit the socket to the nut on a short extension, and hold it in place on the side of the trans when I come in from the back with the longer extension set. The trick is to not have the extension joint near choke points. The tape inside the socket trick works well for reinstall, I usually reach up with a long thin screwdriver to finagle it into place and get that first critical thread started. On a related note, as long as slave is good I leave it attached to the line when pulling the trans. As others have said, the 5-speed slave can be difficult to bleed.

 

Fred '74tti & '69

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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"fix" the tunnel a little more, and...lower the back of the tranny slightly.

then i think i used 1/4 drive deep socket and a wobble extension.

+1

Might as well so you don't have to do fight with it after that.  I dont know why 2002's and 2002 Autos have different tunnels.  Auto tunnels are much bigger.

Beast 02- '74 2002
Beast 35- '11 135i
The Twins!!!
O=00=O

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+1

Might as well so you don't have to do fight with it after that. I dont know why 2002's and 2002 Autos have different tunnels. Auto tunnels are much bigger.

+2

BTDT on my own and many customer cars. I loosen the trans mount/crossmember, pry the trans over to the passenger side some and get at the upper slave nut with a 1/4 drive universal socket on a 2-3' extension. You'd think the 1/4 can't do the job, but if I've been in there before its not that tight. Remember, those should be nyloc or pinch loc nuts, so they won't back off...

Sometimes someone else has been in there first and I have to smash 3/8 drive stuff up there to get the upper nut loose. On "regular" BMWs with that style clutch slave cylinder I usually use the 3/8 stuff.

Tom Jones

BMW wrench for 30 years, BMWCCA since 1984 at age 9
66 BMW16oo stored, 67 1600-2 lifelong project, 2 more 67-8 1600s, 86 528e 5sp 586k, 91 318i
Mom&Dad's, 65 1800TiSA, 70 2800, 72 2002Tii 2760007 orig owners, 15 Z4 N20

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  • 6 months later...

Just had to deal with this and found this old thread. The combination of unbolting the transmission support bracket to lower the back of the transmission and gain a bit more clearance between the upper nut and the tunnel, and going in from the back with a 10" and 4" 1/4" wobble extension, made this trivial. I had to do it twice, and it was cake. Harbor Freight has, for $14, a wobble extension set, including the 10" and 4" 1/4" pieces you need.

 

 

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The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

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Rob - is your fluid supply line connected in that last picture?  I believe that is what makes getting to that top nut a chore.

 

Here is mine from below.

pics172010023.jpg

 

Old slave cylinder with portion of old hard line

IMG_5605.jpg

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Will the slave cylinder work properly if mounted inverted?  If it will, will that help with clearance to upper nut?

No and No

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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