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jerry

Solex
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Everything posted by jerry

  1. jerry

    2760445

    i spent several years saving 2760440 from certain death. i did all the hard work of rust repair only to pass it on to a former owner from the 70's who found me on this website years ago. i moved it along when i acquired an even more rusty alfa romeo guilietta spider veloce. i am confident that it will someday ride again or at least, never be allowed to decompose as it did. i wish you had photos of 2760445 so that i could compare the 'state of stress'.
  2. i'll be bringing two used ones to the Brisbane swap this saturday. not new but you are free to look.
  3. do the measurements outlined in the overhaul manual. there's a good diagram showing the measurements. do this and you won't have to guess. as i recall there's a fair bit of tolerance allowed. i've always been able to merely reuse my shims after verifying i'm within spec.
  4. M10 Front covers are a 'dime a dozen', or so they were when i was collecting parts.... S14 cranks, not so much. i'm not intending to piece together an entire S14 engine, just a stroker on an M10. i can't remember if i have a set of S14 conrods, though. i think i do... it looks like i'll be aiming for a 60mm opening. another thought about keeping the damper from the S14 pulley is that perhaps it was a benefit for the longer throw of the rods.
  5. folks, i did a search and only found passing mention of the machining requirements. there were a couple links presented but i think they expired. anyhow, i will be loosing my access to a fabulous machine shop as my company is closing my facility and leaving California. I'm staying put and will probably have more time to devote to the long sleeping 02 projects i have as i transition to a new phase in life as i get nearer to retirement age; i'm done with long commutes. it occurred to me that i should prepare one of my spare front covers for the S14 crank i have on hand. i have the S14 pulley as well so i think the best option is to leave the crank alone and modify the aluminum cover. Question: does anyone know the front seal diameter i need to enlarge the cover to? i do not have an M3 front seal available and do not know the clearance fit. thanks in advance. btw, my current distraction is a 1960 alfa romeo guilietta spider veloce .
  6. very nice writeup David. I like your division of work, ie., you get to do the writeup while Chris skins his knuckles... looks very nice. you do realize that your car is the "practice session" for the "main event" coming later?? cheers, and nice to see the progress.
  7. I think you did a great job using what you could find. the top photo shows what appears to be a hopeless 02 well but it still maintains a solid middle and the OD area. if it were mine, I'd make 3-4 patch panels and save the original well. i'd only do butt-welds and grind the welds down to match. what you did is a great alternative and more doable i'm sure.
  8. without a photo to show the extent of rust we're all just guessing. if at all possible save the original spare tire well. it takes a lot of patience and skill to make a replacement well NOT look like a garbage can lid welded in place. it is possible to use the existing well as a template as long as you can find a matching contour area that will withstand the mild planishing necessary to shape the piece into the proper contour. the BEST sheet metal material is basic metal shelves from office bookshelves or if you are lucky enough to find metal utility carts. the stuff is low carbon and easily formed. otherwise go to the local pick and pull and find the oldest vintage door, hood etc., you can find. newer cars can be thinner stock of higher strength steel; not as readily formable.
  9. FWIW, the later Alpina A4 setup used a cable, not linkage like the original Ti's. your PHH's look very nice. even the cheesehead screws look unmolested.
  10. without the bell housing, i believe this was originally for a Jensen or some such. correct me if i'm wrong...
  11. if my spare tire well looked like this one did before the wholesale transplant of the bottom, i would not have cut the whole piece out. instead, i would have only cut out the worst parts and use only enough of the replacement panel to patch it up. the repair can be much more discrete that way.
  12. if you use a tig welder you'll have to use a small cup for the Ar shielding gas and you may not have enough clearance. you'll have the same access problems with a Mig gun. Go old school and use Oxy-Acetilene gas torch with mild steel filler metal and flux. you need to prep the pieces better than what is shown. square the edge flat and add a small bevel to both pieces that will be filled with weld metal. getting the two pieces aligned prior to tack welding is critical. it needs to be perfectly straight AFTER welding if you hope to get a strut insert inside. i'd want to fashion a jig to hold it straight during welding. weld in intervals to mitigate thermal expansion issues. a stiffener piece or two on the outside welded in place may provide a bit more strength. it is, after all, your front wheels you want to hold onto.
  13. i'm very jealous. is that a backyard autolift you have, Ed? i see foliage nearby.
  14. yes, indeed it is... sadly, my access to it will be coming to an end as the aeroengine overhaul shop i work in will be closing down in 18 months to move to Indianapolis because it is too expensive to run this type of business in California. i'm staying put, btw. The subject car of this post is now near St. Louis, Mo to be completed by a former owner who had this exact car in the late 70's. i moved it along to make room for a 1960 Alfa Romeo Guilietta Veloce spider. i have another 02 in my 'to do' list, however.
  15. C: there's enough BMW logos on the car as it is... trunk, hood, hubcaps, steering wheel and keep the original profile.
  16. aw yes, i remember those days. i liked to slog around in the mud in the personal attacks/political section back in the day where we could avoid 'virtue signaling' to the www. it was a novelty in its time, but that time has passed.
  17. josh, put me in line for the air cleaner cover if the other guy passes. it looks familiar. is it? i'm working on your car's twin right now. same color, 2575914. cheers.
  18. I have been on-again, off-again working on a mid-year model 71 02. this is the first 02 where i encountered glue/sealant used on the windshield gasket, front and rear. although it was a bear to remove it really saved the metal underneath. anyhow. this car has the early pinch strip used on the early cars. this pinch strip was not used on later cars; squaretails for certain. i can see the benefit of using it to hold the headliner in place, more than just hoping the glue holds. later cars have tiny clips that i haven't been able to locate. i've installed windshields without this strip and it seems to make the rubber lip easier to place while using the pull-string during installation. i seem to recall that this earlier method had a different p/n for the rubber gaskets. is that true? are the gaskets useable with or without this pinch strip? the last time i tried to use windshield sealant i ended up smearing all over the opening. it made a mess of the paint. from the cracked appearance of the original weatherstrip i was certain i'd see a bunch of rust. it was a pleasant surprise to see such clean metal underneath. the gasket shrunk and cracked but the sealant did its job keeping moisture away.
  19. looks like the earlier variant used with single barrel Solex carbs. if you pull it out it likely will have what appear to be thermocouples protruding into the exhaust ports. i've taken them out and blocked the forward and aft holes and used them as a 'poor man's' tii cast manifold. these are also the manifolds that came with those very cool cast aluminum heat shields. OK, i stand corrected. nevermind my explanation. i did not know that the cast heat shield was used on later cars...
  20. i have an unused Garret turbo and a couple turbo-type exhaust manifolds i'll include as a package deal for $400 if there is any interest i'll bring it to Brisbane. i bought it at the 1st Brisbane show several years ago, but i'm not likely to use it. my loss is your gain. PM me if interested.
  21. question: can this pvc material take and hold staples to attach the original vinyl? is glue a better alternative, perhaps?
  22. do you have a MIG welder and are you handy with thicker gauge sheetmetal. if so, it is a relatively easy repair to do a nice job if you take the time to cut out the rot and butt weld a patch in place. the frame rail is pretty straight in shape to begin with so you don't have any complex curves to deal with. it looks like the area aft of your rust has crumbled in from jacking (i suppose). that might suggest that it is rusty too and weakened. i would wire-wheel the entire frame rail from the rust hole aft. cut out the rust hole area and then take a mechanic's mirror and see what you can find inside. you can cut a piece of hardwood to use as a template to reform some 14-16 gauge sheet metal to shape. i'd probably want to make my welds along the side of the frame rails and not the bottom surface, but that's just me.
  23. i've salvaged a couple quarter panels off square tails before. there's a fair bit of troublesome reinforcement to get through by the tail light area. much easier on a roundie. also, the reinforcing panel glued to the quarter panel (delaminated in your case likely) would make it hard to reshape in place. i'm betting if you were willing to do most of the panel beating or supply a good one to a body guy after liberating your panel, you could save a big amount of labor cost. removing the panel requires about a devoted Saturday to remove the rear quarter window. remove the aluminum trim by drilling the rivets out. peel the pinchweld from the b-pillar, remove interior panel and rear seat. remove rear bumper. best to remove the rear window too if you'd like to avoid fussing with a larger butt weld down low, ie. make the joint along the c-pillar. get a handful of 1/8in and 5/16in cobalt drill bits and start drilling out the spotwelds all along the bottom edge, b-pillar, wheel well and carefully use a dremel like die grinder to cut through the handful of tackwelds along the way. wire wheeling the spotwelds can help locate them. use a very stiff spatula and hammer to break the spotweld ligament apart as you pilot with the 1/8in drill and try to drill through the top layer only with the 5/16in drill. liberating your bashed quarter panel will make it easier to reshape any underlying structural parts underneath. and, you might be able to actually save your quarterpanel. i've been trying to find that ever elusive free Saturday to do this very same job to save a '71 02 i have on hand. it was hit from the PS tail light and pushed the quarter forward and bowed it. all this rain hasn't made it any easier to get started. 76's are really good solid 02's. i liked the one i had but the smog thing is a bummer for CA. i'm not trying to scare you away from the job, in fact, what i described above doesn't take much skill, just patience and willing attitude. good luck.
  24. you sir, have stumbled onto a very nice car. your brightwork is plenty bright as it is. so is your paint. apply a wax, but be easy on using an electric polisher. avoid it actually. those single barrel solex's are a wonder to have on a sorted engine.
  25. i can only suggest that you post the VIN in case they try a re-paint in a new color and it's passed along. i'm sorry for your loss. is it time for the rest of us to put a transponder, ala, Lo-Jack, on our vintage cars?


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