engine and drivetrain 32/36 Weber install questions....

[pisgahlvr]

Hello all, 

 

Yes, I did do a search but nothing came up that specifically deals with my questions. 

 

Have a few questions for you guys. I am in the midst of installing a 32/36 weber electric choke carb that I bought from Korman. I already removed my old carb which is a 32/36 weber with a water choke. 

 

Quick background: My car is 1976 base 2.0 4 spd manual. I have all of the emissions equipment removed. I have a Bosch 008 mechanical advance distributor. All plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are brand new.  

 

My first question deals with this nipple in the picture below. I didn't even know it was there. This nipple goes directly into the manifold. Does this need to be plugged since my smog equipment is removed? 

 

 

Next question. On my old 32/36 weber water choke carb, I have this sensor attached to the side of the carb. On the new electric choke carb, there is no sensor where this one is installed. Do I need to transfer this over to the new carb? 

 

 

My new carb came with these two gaskets, which I assume go somewhere in between the supplied spacer and the carb itself. The instructions do not include any pictures, so I am a bit confused about where exactly to put the gaskets in relation to the spacer and the carb. 

 

 

In which order do the gaskets go? Are both gaskets the exact same? Does one gasket go in-between the spacer and the manifold, and does the other go in-between the spacer and the carb? Am I still supposed to apply a bead of gasket seal? Do you apply gasket seal between both the spacer and the manifold AND the spacer and the carb? 

 

 

My last question deals with eliminating the water choke hoses. Do I just attach a hose connecting the two circled connections together? 

 

Edited January 25, 2015 by pisgahlvr

[pisgahlvr]

In other news: I noticed that the head on my engine has "E12" stamped on it. Possibly a stupid question here, but does that mean I have an E12 head on my M10 engine? 

[Stevenc22]

1. Plug the nipple in the manifold. Make sure any other unused nipples in the manifold are plugged. If you have a vacuum distributer the nipple on the carb itself will connect to the distributor

2. Do not transfer over sensor.

3. One gasket goes on manifold followed by spacer followed by second gasket followed by card. The gaskets are identical so the order doesn't matter.

4. Yes you can connect a hose between the two water lines or you can actually unscrew the water nipples and screw a bolt into the block in their place.

[Guest_anonymous]

Cap the vacuum nipple. Use the one on the carb if you have a vacuum advance line from the distributor

Idle shut off solenoid. I never ran one on my 32/36 but if you have over run issues after ignition off, you may want to install it

Manifold, gasket, spacer, gasket, carb. Both gaskets should be the same. I never put sealant on my manifold gaskets. Tighten slowly and evenly and it seals fine.

You can connect the water choke line directly from the manifold to the block. If your manifold has a threaded barb fitting you can cap the manifold and you can cap the block which is a threaded fitting.

There were three different heads for the m10 for the 2002. A 121, an E12 and an E21. In short: The combustion chamber is a different shape and they mate with different piston domes

Edited January 25, 2015 by dar_on_

[Stevenc22]

E12 refers is a model reference for the heads. Early cars have e12 heads, later cars switched to e21 heads.

[Conserv]

I suspect my use of capitalization has no basis in factory documentation but I always use a capital "E" for M10 head designation but a lower case "e" for BMW car designation. Hence, I would say you have an E12 head but it's not off of an e21! As long as I'm only speaking to myself, this method works without fail!

The E21 head's only factory appearance on '02s was on 49-state versions for the '76 model year. Not coincidentally, I'm sure, it was simultaneously being used on e21's from their inception in May '75 (Euro model only produced at that time). Did the factory name this new head an E21 because it was intended to be, and was, in fact, the head for the e21? Maybe. Maybe not. I don't really know!

Regards,

Steve

[TobyB]

 

E12 refers is a casting reference for the heads. Early cars have 121, or 121ti heads, middle cars used the E12 heads, and later cars switched to E21 heads.

fixed that for ya...

 

t

['76mintgrün'02]

Am I still supposed to apply a bead of gasket seal?

 

 

You do not need gasket seal.  A P.O. of my car used gasket in a tube, rather than a fiber gasket.  It was ugly, so I thought I would share the photo.

 

 

[pisgahlvr]

You do not need gasket seal.  A P.O. of my car used gasket in a tube, rather than a fiber gasket.  It was ugly, so I thought I would share the photo.

 

 

 

Wow that looks like a mess! The instructions do say that you can use gasket seal in a tube, but I'd much rather use the fiber gaskets. 

 

*edit* Thanks for the feedback everyone, I sincerely appreciate it. It's little things like that that they never cover in the installation instructions. 

Edited January 25, 2015 by pisgahlvr

[pisgahlvr]

Picture of the first gasket going on

Picture of the spacer installed

2nd gasket installed

Re-routed water lines

New Korman 32/36 carb installed

Korman supplied breather hose. I like this better than the one that was there. This is much cleaner looking

Fuel hose installed between fuel pump and carb

Fuel line reattached, and 12v power attached to the electric choke. Also vacuum line installed for the distributor.

Edited January 26, 2015 by pisgahlvr

[Stevenc22]

Looks correctly installed

[pisgahlvr]

Looks correctly installed

 

Thanks man. 

 

After install, have to say she runs a HELL of a lot better. Excellent throttle response and once you give it gas, it go's and go's and go's (drove her up to Starbucks today after I finished installing everything, and yes FIRST TIME SHE HAS BEEN DRIVEN BY ME SINCE I BOUGHT HER!!!!!!!)

 

Here is a video of the bad though: 

 

Idle 

 

Any ideas on the wonky idle? I managed to successfully drive the car for about 15 minutes today, and it didn't die on me once while I was driving it. 

 

I suspect at this point that maybe it's just a matter of getting it timed properly? Or maybe adjusting the idle screw? Can anyone tell me where the idle screw is on the weber carbs? or better yet, show me a picture? In case you haven't noticed, I am a visual learner. I need pictures!

 

I still have a vacuum line running between my Bosch 008 mechanical advance distributor, and the new carb. Should I remove this vacuum line and cap the nipples? 

Edited January 26, 2015 by pisgahlvr

[simonr]

If you have a mechanical advance Distributor there should be no where on the distributor to connect a vacuum line. Are you sure you distributor is mechanical? If it were me I would first let the car warm up completely then pop off your air filter and see if your choke plates are wide open. If they are not wide open adjust the choke until they are

I would check your plug wires to ensure they are all the way on the plug . They can feel like the are on when they are only touching each other. Put in a new set of points. By all means set your timing . There are a ton of threads on adjusting and tuning your carb. Good luck

[Mark92131]

The idle screw is just to the left and under the vacuum port on the passenger side of the carb.  It has a spring on it.  You need to slowly turn it in and out to achieve the best, smooth, fast idle.  This should be approximately 1 to 1.5 turns out from the screw in a seated position, clockwise all the way in.  Don't overtighten this screw, it will damage the tip.  If your best idle is more than 1.5 turns, the idle jets need to be switched out.  There are 2, one the passenger side, the idle jet is behind is found in the same position as the idle cutoff solenoid in the 2nd picture in your post (which should be a screw cap on your new carb) and the second idle jet is on the driver side in the same relative position.  When you get that nice smooth fast idle, you can use the idle adjustment screw (accessed from the passenger side) on the linkage facing the firewall to adjust your idle to 900 RPM and you are done.

 

Make sure that your points are adjusted correctly and your timing is correct, (ball in the view hole at the back of the engine at 2500 RPM for your mechanical distributor) before setting up the carb.

 

Have fun...

 

 

Mark92131

[pisgahlvr]

If you have a mechanical advance Distributor there should be no where on the distributor to connect a vacuum line. Are you sure you distributor is mechanical? If it were me I would first let the car warm up completely then pop off your air filter and see if your choke plates are wide open. If they are not wide open adjust the choke until they are

I would check your plug wires to ensure they are all the way on the plug . They can feel like the are on when they are only touching each other. Put in a new set of points. By all means set your timing . There are a ton of threads on adjusting and tuning your carb. Good luck

 

My distributor is an original Bosch 008 tii mechanical advance distributor. The diaphragm on it has a vacuum line port. To the best of my knowledge, the Bosch 008 (and the later replacement 002) is a mechanical advance distributor that came in the 73 tii. plugs are brand new, wires are brand new, cap is brand new, rotor is brand new, carb is a brand new 32/36 unit from Korman. Distributor has a pertronix installed. Car runs like a champ above 1000 RPM's, it just idles like shit.