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  1. so i was installing some new rubber fuel lines. and i bought the 5/16th ID fuel line. and taking a look at the older fuel lines. and they seem to be a much small diameter. i worry that the larger fuel line isnt letting my electric low pressure electric pump build the pressure it needs to push the fuel to my weber carburetor. my car runs with sometimes when i begin to give it throttle, it will bog down very harshly. i believe this to possibly be a not-so-well tuned carburetor. but would the different diamater fuel line make a difference? also, what is a good fuel pressure regulator for the money? right now i am not running a regulator.
  2. I thought I would post an old article from my '2002 compendium.' It is not an 'in depth' article, but should provide a good reference point for new owners. I would also love to see scans from the first two editions of the compendium as I only have the 3rd addition ( I wonder what the changes are??). Cheers, MF
  3. Hi Everyone... I am building a turbo tribute car and looking for some help on the engine build. I am going to go with naturally asperated but trying to get 140 to 160 hp. IE has been very helpful getiing my parts list together which include all the go fast stuff, forged pistons, rods, lightened flywheel, etc. The question is the build. Not sure if I should tackle myself or find a builder. I have done most of the work on the build but have never rebuilt an engine. I have a quote from a local guy here in Phoenix for $2500 plus the cost of the machine work, estimated at $1000. Bringing the total to $3500 plus parts. I guess I have three questions: 1. Does anyone have a recommended engine guy in Phoenix? 2. Is the quote I received reasonable? BTW this guy races BMW's and builds race cars for clients. 3. Should I try to do the engine my self Oh, one more want to go with Dual Webers but looking at performance/Cost trade off. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for the advise! Chris
  4. Hello, I am in the process of restoring my 1971 '02 and want to make it oem+ since I do not think I will ever sell the car. I am currently in the body work phase and building suspension, but soon will have to start the wiring and engine. I do not want to go with the dual weber 40 carbs since they wouldn't be to practical for me since it will be a daily and it is generally pretty cold in Seattle. However, I am struggling to decide if I should go with a 38 down draft carb or a single 40 weber side draft. I would like to know which on is better for daily use and tuning and overall improvement on hp. Also what Ignition system to use and what cam etc etc. Thank you if you answer my question(s). Ted
  5. I have a 1973 2002tii that the previous owner converted to 48mm weber carburetion. It gets a lot of air this way, but if I ever converted it back to the stock fuel injection, what parts would I need exactly to do it? I like the way the little 2.0l runs with carburetion, but it defeats the purpose of the "tii," so any suggestions? Thanks
  6. Twin 45 DCOEs, ignition on, electric fuel pump working, fuel drips from #2 barrel venturi locking bolt on bottom of carb. So fuel is getting into the barrel. I haven tested fuel pressure yet, but float levels were adjusted recently. Needle valve?
  7. SOLD!!!! Gotta Go to make room for my 2002 restoration project..... I'm selling the motor from my 1976 2002. The motor runs great and includes a 32/36 carb and Stahl header. The motor was also de-smogged. I'm guessing that this motor has just over 100K miles on it (119K on the odo). The stock Sachs clutch with less than 1K miles. I would prefer to sell the engine whole, but will consider parting it out. Asking $750 or best offer. PM me your interest. Local pickup is preferred otherwise buyer is responsible for shipping. I do have a create for shipping available. Thanks for looking! Marc
  8. Price:: 30 Location: : Louisville, KY For sale is a brand new linkage rod for the solex/weber 32/36 to weber 38/38 swap. Couldn't use it for my automatic car, time to get it to it's next owner. Purchased brand new from IE. Retails for 35 + shipping, I'd take 30 + shipping. SOLD Thanks! http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-fuel-intake/38rod.html
  9. All, Thanks in advance for any help here. I just got a new manual choke 32/36 redline kit for my 1976 automatic 2002. I put it on yesterday and the swap went great but I can't get the idle set. I removed the factory Solex and the car ran fine before I started the swap. It is like the idle circuit on new weber is not working at all. Car starts and runs fine with my foot on throttle. Once I take foot off throttle it dies. Did the 1.5 turns on idle screw and the seating and back off two turns on mixture screw. Checked to make sure that there was no vacuum leaks visually, but did not have any carb cleaner to check that way. Pulled carb off and made sure that gasket was not blocking idle circuit. Pulled idle jets and looked for obstruction. Nothing blocking idle jets. When I pull on choke engine does not idle faster. I have loosened up throttle lever assembly on carb to just finger tight and it does not appear to be binding. I have not tried looking at float at all but would that affect idle in this major of a way? I pulled two wires off Solex and assumed that they were for electric choke and idle run on solenoid. New carb has no need to those as I have Manuel choke and no idle solenoid. I am kind of perplexed. Thanks, Dave
  10. Alright, I need help from the intelligentsia. I recently updated my carb jetting and can't get the idle to settle down. It's running about 1,800 rpm with the mixture screw just about all the way in. No 1 1/2 turns out here. Current jetting is: Current 20150227 Main Jet 140 170 Air Correction 170 160 Idle Jet 0.50 0.50 I've checked all the vacuum line/ports, gaskets, timing, the usual stuff. Looks good. Plastic floats are at 35mm compressed and 50 mm at rest. Is there something obvious that I'm missing. Just about ready to pull a GreenSwede and chunk the carb for at 38/38. Thanks.
  11. Hello all, Yes, I did do a search but nothing came up that specifically deals with my questions. Have a few questions for you guys. I am in the midst of installing a 32/36 weber electric choke carb that I bought from Korman. I already removed my old carb which is a 32/36 weber with a water choke. Quick background: My car is 1976 base 2.0 4 spd manual. I have all of the emissions equipment removed. I have a Bosch 008 mechanical advance distributor. All plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are brand new. My first question deals with this nipple in the picture below. I didn't even know it was there. This nipple goes directly into the manifold. Does this need to be plugged since my smog equipment is removed? Next question. On my old 32/36 weber water choke carb, I have this sensor attached to the side of the carb. On the new electric choke carb, there is no sensor where this one is installed. Do I need to transfer this over to the new carb? My new carb came with these two gaskets, which I assume go somewhere in between the supplied spacer and the carb itself. The instructions do not include any pictures, so I am a bit confused about where exactly to put the gaskets in relation to the spacer and the carb. In which order do the gaskets go? Are both gaskets the exact same? Does one gasket go in-between the spacer and the manifold, and does the other go in-between the spacer and the carb? Am I still supposed to apply a bead of gasket seal? Do you apply gasket seal between both the spacer and the manifold AND the spacer and the carb? My last question deals with eliminating the water choke hoses. Do I just attach a hose connecting the two circled connections together?
  12. Hi guys, been trying to figure this out on my own for a dew weeks now. My car is a 68 1600-2 with a webber 32/36. When you start the car it will idle beautifully. and rev without issue. When you go to set off it will start "missing" or "breaking up" while accelerating. Sometimes quite badly, sometimes barely at all. It seems to get worse the more throttle you give it. Other times it will run just fine. I have put in new points, rotor, cap, plugs, wires, new fuel filter. re adjusted the carb, and tried re adjusting the timing to see it it helped. All in all no real difference. Just looking for what to check next, or some new ideas as to what could be going on. THANKS! Joe
  13. soo............ i bought a low mileage engine from a guy is hopes for a quick swap, but everything has gone to shit at every corner. so right now, i have a 1.6 m10 (i was told it was 2.0 but after some research i was told it was a 1.6). and the issue is now that i threw my 2.0 intake manifold and stock carb on there.... and im having a alot of trouble getting it running right.... does the intake and carb gona make that much of a difference????? also is there a food stock carb rebuild kit? 3) is there a cheap upgraded carb?
  14. so i got the car cranking and sounds like it wants to start, but i keep getting these loud pops and out of the carburetor, im worried that the timing isnt right, i put the crank to TDC, and set the rotor (i belive). with the engine at TDC, the rotor was sitting at (i would say) a 5 o'clock position. any help pelase!!! hes a video..... its hard to hear but there is a bit of popping, and ignore the sound at the end, my friend dropped a small piece of metal.
  15. The Weber carb on my 2002 persistently leaks around the fuel hose inlet. I've replaced the hose from the fuel pump, and tried various clamps. I can't see anything wrong with the nipple the hose fits on - it looks clean and round. The carb itself I have refurbished with a rebuild kit from Weber. The small basket filter underneath the inlet nipple was cleaned and is clear. Fuel does get into the carb: I can see it in the float chamber looking from above, and with the engine running, fuel is dribbling into the main barrel (which is perhaps not right - shouldn't it be a spray?) When the engine is running, droplets of fuel are falling from the exterior of the inlet hose every few seconds, which makes me very nervous :-) My guess is that there is too much pressure, perhaps caused by an obstruction, but, as I say, the carb has been refurbished and I believe it is clean. The mechanical fuel pump is in good condition, and internally clean. Any advice would be most welcome - thanks!
  16. i'm a little confused about the coolant circulation in my engine bay. this is my current set up the heater hose looks to be a new one. it was a huge length and i'm not sure where it was supposed to go, but it's connected to the rear-most connection on the intake manifold and it didn't have cooling issues like that. (i bought an unfinished project and it's my first 02) what has me stumped is the size of the inlet/outlet(?) on the intake manifold that the heater hose labeled is connected to... it's a bigger size than the heater hose so i macguyvered a solution that works but looks like shit. there's an extra foot of heater hose i'd like to get rid of but it's an awkward transition and spot.
  17. installed a weber 32/36 with a manual choke, but my choke cable is too short and wont reach the linkage. is there an adapter? or a longer cable? im sure others have had this problem....
  18. is there a prescription somewhere for a 1.6? or would the normal prescription do fine for it? also, where do most of you buys your different types of jets?
  19. I know it´s been dealt with before, but in my opinion not enough. And I don´t seem to find those post any more. My thought is getting the jettings of Weber 32/36 synclinkers in one thread/post - easier to find and more to chose from. So, please post your jettings along with other mods and experience with sync link. Please? (And no, I have no jetting with sync link yet, I am about to install but have a few other things to sort out first.) /Ola
  20. Here's another idle problem video 1) New plugs 2) New wires 3) New distributor rotor 4) New distributor cap 5) Valve lash adjusted .007 6) Timing set static 7) Carb refurbished The valve lash was adjusted with the engine cold. The idle rate and idle mixture adjustments on the carb were set as best I could given the unevenness of the idle. The wires are in the correct order: 1-3-4-2 going clockwise looking at the top of the dizzy. I checked for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold, but can't detect any. The vacuum gauge on the manifold shows good vacuum (around 20 mmHg). I've tried rotating the dizzy to try to improve the running, but with no luck. If it's not clear from the video, the idle is hunting up and down, from about 1000rpm to 1500rpm. The engine is shaking, as if there is a misfire (perhaps there is). I'm struggling with this - the engine used to run reasonably smooth when I first got the car, as far as I remember (it's been a while!).
  21. i was looking over the 318i fuel injection write up in the FAQ section, and without any pics and none of the links working, kinda hard to see how some of the things go together, i was curious if there was anyother write ups as good as this one? and i guess im looking into something more detailed in the part speaking about using a stock 2002 dist, and not running an oxygen sensor. all help appreciated in advance!!
  22. anyone here running a blow through or any other type of carbureted turbo system? very curious about this, seems extremely inefficient, but a cheap way to have cheap FI. haha
  23. I just lost my post and don't have time to re-write everything so I'll be brief. I have a Weber 32/36 DGAV 33B1 - but it definitely has an electric choke so that must have been changed at some point. I think the carb was installed new a few years back - 2012 probably. Weather change; temp dropped; car still starts but runs rougher than before until warm. I've searched and read about carbs here; many references to suggested posts, if they have links are often dead. Some other posts that I can find are mostly Greek to me. I found a few posts (can't find the url now and I'm not sure that those posts were on this forum) with easy to follow instructions and I worked through their suggestions but something still isn't quite right. Also found a carb rebuild video series by EricTheCarGuy on youtube to be pretty interesting and helpful. I've tinkered with choke adjustment, idle speed screw, idle mixture screw and I can definitely see and hear the changes. I think I've improved it some, but not in all conditions. Warm afternoon driving is awesome. Early morning damp and chilly is rough and rumble. Anyway, I'm looking for suggested reading, videos are great, posts that are written from a point of view that I'll be able to comprehend. Thanks.
  24. Hey everyone - I'm a noob on '02 FAQ, but have already found a wealth of information. Thanks! I wanted to share these step-by-step instructions on the rebuild of a Weber 32/36 DGAV carb, found on another forum. They are CONCISE, and have pictures for each and every step. Probably more information than many of you need, but I couldn't do without it. Enjoy: http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/561-guide-rebuilding-a-weber-3236-dgav-carb/
  25. I've searched the forums an the internet for generally simlar issues with no avail. Key in the on switch postion, no dash lights but turn indicators and headlights light up strong as ever. Crack the car and the engine starts up no problem but it will not idle pressing the accelorator and while running I have no dash lights or gauge cluster activity. No burnt fuses, battery pulls strong and fires the engine without hesistation. Seems to me as an electrical issue as it coincides with no gauge cluster activity. Possible bad ground? bad ignition switch? any help would be greatly appeciated.
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