engine and drivetrain 32/36 Weber install questions....

[Guest_anonymous]

Full numbers on the distributor please.

you do not want a vacuum line open to the intake regardless.

['76mintgrün'02]

Now you can paint the ball white and set the timing.   

Unplug the vacuum line from the distributor and plug the port where it comes off the Weber while setting timing.

 

(all of these distributors have mechanical advance.  when they have vacuum as well, they are generally referred to as such... vacuum advance distributor 'and the mechanical aspect is assumed')

 

I did not realize that the 008 distributor came with or without the vacuum feature.  I did recently learn that the '74 tii came with a vacuum retard distributor.  This was new to me as well, as I had only heard of the advance/retard combined units.

 

It seems there were four styles?

 

Mechanical only

Mech + Vacuum Advance

Mech + Vacuum Retard

Mech + Combination Adv/Ret

 

If yours has a vacuum pod and is in fact a tii model, it might mean that it is in fact a vacuum retard unit.  If you take the top off and suck on the vacuum line coming off the pod, you should see the points plate rotate.  If it moves counter clockwise, it is an Advance pod.  Clockwise and it is a Retard pod.  It will not move much, but you should be able to see it.

[pisgahlvr]

Full numbers on the distributor please.

you do not want a vacuum line open to the intake regardless.

 

This is my exact distributor that I have currently installed on my car. It is a Bosch 008 distributor with a pertronix installed. 

 

 

 

*edit* Wait a second.....since I have a pertronix installed.........does the vacuum feature even matter? 

Edited January 26, 2015 by pisgahlvr

[Guest_anonymous]

Please search "0 231 180 008"

The pertronix does not negate the vac pot on the distributor. Regardless you do not want an open vacuum line to the manifold or carb

Edited January 26, 2015 by dar_on_

[Stevenc22]

Set the timing with a timing light. Also make sure the choke is correctly set. Just cause its electric, doesnt mean it wont need adjusting.

[peterschop]

 

*edit* Wait a second.....since I have a pertronix installed.........does the vacuum feature even matter? 

 

The pertronix is just a switch for the coil that opens and closes as the distributor turns, the same as points. The vacuum adv/retard works the same  with either.

['76mintgrün'02]

Searching the model number on your distributor indicates that it is a vacuum retard unit.

 

I believe you will be better off plugging the nipple at the base of the carburetor and not using the vacuum feature.  

 

You will still benefit from the mechanical advance mechanism, assuming it is still functioning properly. 

 

Now that your car is mobile again, it will be easy to roll it forward and paint the BB on the flywheel white. 

 

Once the timing has been set, you can fiddle with the carburetor some more.  (Timing first though).

 

Here is a link to a thread where Bill Williams shows the ball on the flywheel. 

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/43350-pic-of-tii-flywheel-with-timing-ball-and-0-degree-line/?hl=%2Bpainting+%2Btiming+%2Bflywheel#entry657700

 

(notice that this quote is in his signature line: "90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike.")

 

When you are setting the timing, note whether the ball is standing still under the light, or bouncing around.  This will tell you about the accuracy of the spark and the condition of your distributor.

Edited January 26, 2015 by '76Mintgrun'02

[kimerpof]

Sorry to jack this thread lol, but do you need to have a spacer between the manifold and the carburetor?

['76mintgrün'02]

The spacer helps keep the carburetor cooler, by spacing it away from the heated manifold.

 

I have read that it can help in situations where the car is hard to start, once it is all warmed up and has sat a bit.  The theory is that the fuel in the bowl boils off.  

 

I do not have a spacer, nor the hard starting problem, although I have experienced it in the past.  I have fiddled with so many things that it is hard to say which one cured the hard starting issue, but it did not require a spacer. 

Edited January 27, 2015 by '76Mintgrun'02

[thinksound_mike]

I do not have a spacer, nor the hard starting problem, although I have experienced it in the past.  I have fiddled with so many things that it is hard to say which one cured the hard starting issue, but it did not require a spacer. 

 

I don't run a spacer for my 32/36 either. I had a hot restarting problem after running the car for a while. I blamed it on my dirty solex. So far so good with the Weber.

[Rich Elliott]

Gotta say, this post was great!!!  I just bought a Weber 38/38 carb for my (new to me) '76 2002.  I'm trying to get the engine in tip top shape before moving it over to my '70 2002.   This post answered just about all of my questions!  My main question was that my new Weber is an electric carburetor, while my old Solex is a water based carburetor.  I wasn't sure if I could put an electric choke in place of a water based choke, but it looks like I can. Also, I read this answer from HotRodders.com and it helped explain the technical details of how an electric carburetor works.  

 

Anyone know where I can get a couple of those fiber gaskets?  My Redline kit only has one paper gasket. 

['76mintgrün'02]

Pierce Manifolds is a reputable supplier of Weber bits/pieces.

[halboyles]

40 minutes ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

Pierce Manifolds is a reputable supplier of Weber bits/pieces.

 

What the mintgrun says.  Knowledgeable and they have almost everything.

[Rich Elliott]

Cool! Thanks!