jerry

ask, and you shall receive.... i bought this dash here on the FAQ about 5 years ago along with the steering wheel, from a 68.

if the parts were inspected correctly, i would say the machine shop was DEFINITELY doing their job and had the customer's interests at heart. it is so much easier to throw things away on 'general principals', rather than evaluate and disposition parts accordingly. in a perfect world, parts should have serviceable limits published.

As a follow on to a related post nearby, i too have a set of the magnesium Chromodora rims that i am reluctant to use until i know what lug nuts to use. i have lug nuts that came with the common BBS rims. they are steel and the end is capped so the studs are not exposed. what should i be looking for to safely mount these rims? thanks in advance.

i can't stomach the cost of those plastic license plate lights. the last time i looked they were fetching over $30/each. that would be tolerable if they were more durable, but in time they either fade, crack or get hit. i had a small drawer full of damaged lights, so i decided to give them a facelift. i used RTV sealant on the interior surface to seal the cracks, using my finger to smooth it somewhat. i even ran a bead across the clear window when i discovered a crack there as well. i cut small pieces of masking tape to protect the window from paint. it was not necessary to get an exact match, no one will know. a coat of grey primer followed by metallic chrome and they are good for at least another year or two or three, or..... and now they match my chrome-painted rear bumper!!! i'm guessing that my collection will save me a couple hundred in replacement cost. i'd rather spend my money on weather stripping and go-fast parts.

well tonight i finally got the car running. i hooked up the battery in the trunk, looked for smoking wires, pulled the coil wire to prevent the engine from actually starting and cranked the starter. the starter worked, engine rotated. i repeated this to try to get oil moving and gas to the fuel pump. battery started to loose power so i waited an additional 20 minutes while i put a charger on it. i pulled the choke out, connected the coil, looked things over one more time and gave my brother the go-ahead to try to start it. it started RIGHT UP. a little shaky at first as it got into the groove. i pushed the choke in a little too soon as i discovered when it finally warmed up and settled down. set the timing with a light and adjusted the idle down a little. once it warmed up i was able to get it to idle smoothly at 900-1000 RPM. it's got a Schrick 292 and a cleaned and prepped Weber 38/38 and a stock looking exhaust. it sounds GREAT and more aggressive than any of my previous 02's. Things to do: clean and install original spaghetti seatbelts (i love those, btw). tighten the suspension once the car is loaded properly weld a small exhaust leak at the O2 sensor bung. and a bunch of cosmetic/body work among others.... What a sense of satisfaction. this car has been dead for at least 7 years!!!

your shift linkage looks fine. the positioning of the shift lever in the hole looks similar to what i have as well. i think your A/C console is too far aft. push that sucker forward... i had to remove underpadding to make the necessary clearance to locate my console correctly after installing a new carpet. perhaps you can verify by locating the original screw hole in your tranny tunnel where the shift surround was screwed to the tunnel. if they line up as-is then disregard my comments on the console location.

you'll have to replace the backing plate. the adjustment 'screw' is not available separately. in order to avoid rounding off this 'screw', if it gets frozen, the safest way to free it up is to remove the brake shoes and use a vice grips on the internal side of the adjustment 'screw'. with penetrating oil and work it loose that way. i had to do this yesterday and after oil and working it, it moves more freely, but not so much as to be ineffective in holding its position. i've also dressed worn hex pattern with a file to help restore them for later use with a wrench.

fabulous....!!!!!!

Inkatouring did it a couple years ago...

lookee here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,287204/start,30/ i did this earlier this year. no need to use plate steel like your other example. you are merely boxing it up for torsional stiffness. unless you are thinking of entering a monster-truck competition or run the Baja race with your 02, you should be fine. get some thick cardstock and trace the outline of the opening. it's not hard, just time consuming to do it right. one pattern should suffice for both sides. they ought to be mirror images of each other. fabricating the holder to keep the rubber brake hose from turning while tightening was the biggest chore of the job. i had to file the reverse of a 14mm hex nut.

indeed, photos would be helpful to diagnose. i'd like to see the inboard bearing surface of your hub and the ends of your spacer tube. i'm betting they've experienced some metal galling. because your axle nut has a cotter pin, it's not rotating loose so i can only guess that there's encough lateral movement to wear the spacer down enough to cause additional looseness. did you verify the shim thickness using the simple calculation as provided in CD's diagram? where i'm having difficulty sorting out is how it can appear that a significant torque was applied, only to have it come loose relatively early. i've merely tightened this nut using a breaker bar and a lot of grunt, no torque wrench. no problem yet (as i knock on wood). i do verify the shim thickness too, beforehand. 99% of the time the available shim is okay.

my suggestion is to put the front end up on jackstands. straighten out the front wheels. reach in through the DS window as you keep an eye on the front wheel and see how much play you have in the steering wheel before the tires move side-to-side. if this is the case, it suggests that your steering box needs adjustment. if you are lucky, you'll still have a few threads remaining on the solo adjustment screw that is on the top of the box. it's the one with a locknut on it, right next to the red-plastic cap. screwing it in tightens up the slop in you steering wheel. by now, it's likely to have little to no adjustment remaining. if you're lucky, it's never been adjusted and you will have plenty of adjustment left.

i made more progress with the radio install. i'm very pleased with how this is turning out. my goal was to not add any more screw holes to the console than were already existing. with the exception of the ashtray cross-member, i've been able to keep the console looking untouched. fitting these custom trays takes a lot of patience with measuring, trimming, fitting and filing. the results speak for themselves. i have no idea if the Becker radio i'm installing actually works. if it does not, i will have it repaired, whatever the cost. i've become quite fond of its looks. it's perfect with the speaker grill i have. i plan to paint the center portion of the grill black when i get some appropriate textured paint. i had hoped to locate the speaker at an angle, matching the angle of the console edge but i just didn't quite have enough space so i am fitting it below the radio inline with it. this position will provide a very small tray in the console for small crap. i'll think about interior storage later. i took a couple photos to show the progress. i have a new speaker on order that hopefully will fit. re-coning a european speaker was not as simple to do due to the parts availability issue. this is a mono-speaker radio anyways, so as long as i can hear something, then i'm happy.

still trying to fill the void..... i may have to resort to sticking a bundle of matchsticks in the opening.

i happen to have an Inka car with a saddle interior. i hope these photos help... ;-)

that is correct. even the highly-sought-after Petri sport wheel is fake leather. i have the same ti wheel with the same issue. if you can glue the rubber so it does not rotate on the rim, you might consider stitching a leather Wheelskins wrap around it. i just completed one on a standard wheel and it really cleaned it up. please post up your eventual results.

i haven't posted in quite a while. the car did not make it to brisbane.... there's always next year. i am so close to getting it running, BUT, i decided that i will complete all the unpleasant, nagging issues i typically put off, on the interior. it has typically been my habit to get the car running and then i never quite get around to completing the interior. i've driven 02's without radios, door panels and even window cranks for months/years until i get around to selling it to 'thin the herd'. this happened to the last car i sold. it wasn't until i finalized the deal with the buyer that i actually completed all the small interior stuff. it sure transformed the car!!! i was sorry to see it go. that will not happen with this car. it is my plan that i will not sell this car until i have another 02 waiting in the wings. things i've done since last post: installed recored radiator and all tubes, headlights, horns, blinkers, hood removed PS door for rehab and installed temporary PS door. swapped entire steering assy to eliminate worn out unit. rekeyed doors and ignition to same key rekeyed trunklock swapped a better 3-piece dash with minor cracking for the heavily cracked original one. installed new blue carpet kit cleaned and detailed instrument cluster cleaned and refurbished the OEM steering wheel and installed a leather wrap, which i'm very pleased with. i'm currently working on a mono-Becker radio installation in the console with a single speaker. no stereo for this car. i'm fabricating a custom frame to utilize existing holes in the console. this kind of work takes a tremendous amount of time but i really want to experience what it's like to drive in an 02 with a decent interior...

still looking......

Tom, How's that Massage Parlor? do you give it a 'thumbs up'?