jerry

i bought several of his kits about 5-6 years ago as a package deal with him. i installed one. the others have been traded, or sold.... maybe he's improved. the material was flimsy compared to other alternatives. i can not speak to any recent kits he has on offer. i will add, that i traded for what must have been a very early Esty carpet kit and that kit was noticeably primative from her later efforts. so there's an example of product improvement. perhaps the same applies to Only02, too.

if you send them to me, i will inspect them under a stereoscope and look for wear. i will also take a hardness measurement on both pieces and report back. i will then, keep them, or scrap them.... okay, i'll pitch in $5 for shipping.

in the aeroengine overhaul business, we inspect gears and bearings under a 3X magnifier and look for small spalls (small areas of metal breakout), wear steps or cracks. if memory serves me, we will rub a small radiused tip along a visual wear step and if we feel the step with the radiused tip, then it's either burnished with a kraytex bar or india stone, depending on inspection limits of course, or scrapped. a medium-tipped ball point pen is a close approximation. if this is good enough for single-engined helicopters, then it's probably good enough for the M10. have a look in the keyway of the crankshaft pulley, too. i've seen cracks there, more than once. as the other poster said, if the profile appears unworn or minimal wear, you're probably good to go. there's still black oxide showing on the contact area. i'm guessing these sprockets are hardened.

here's two for you: Grampa and Ramone

anyone familiar with the above mentioned vendor or more specifically the F-280 designation? the camshaft was removed from a package deal i purchased that included a pair of Weber 45's. I tried to understand the following in-depth post: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,316169/highlight,camshaft/ it was too much for my feeble brain. I think the only recourse i have is to send this camshaft out for evaluation and include with it a copy of a standard cam, a shrick 292 and 304 and a pair of 'lightly modified' regrinds (or so i was told) and compare the numbers. what i expect to find in all those numbers is a general 'ranking' of some sorts between these cams. i'm guessing my max and min numbers will come from the standard cam and the schrick 304. From there, I can guesstimate where this cam and the two regrinds lay. sound like a reasonable request? any vendor recommendations? local SF Bay area (marin, east bay) would be good. of course, if anyone knows offhand where the F-280 lies in the general scheme of Camshaft grind hierarchy, that would save me a few bucks.... btw, i tried to call them (florida) and they are defunct now. from a web search the only info i got was a message board comment that they were a company started by a couple former Crane Cam employees and their cams were considered good quality (at least by the one post, i found).

i stopped going to the pick n pull on a regular basis when i determined that except for a few choice items, like LSD or recarros, i could get the stuff on ebay, delivered to my door in a nice little box for about the same price or a little bit more. when factoring in my time and effort to remove from junkers, the comparison was even better. junkyards have a fair bit of overhead to cover, but they are not the bargains they once were. sometimes, i feel like i'm buying from a repair shop and not a junk yard...

$100.00......?? CLASSIC.... i truely did "laugh out loud", well, maybe, more of a brief chuckle....

oooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhh ssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiittttt gawd damn i swear that photo made me squirm uncontrollably. i'd rather see jonny's ass.....

check the thumbscrew that secures the spool of wire onto its arbor. IIRC, it is supposed to apply alittle tension so that the wire spool doesn't merely spin endlessly as the wire is pulled by the rollers you referred to in your OP. back it off a bit.

i figured i'd box up a set of trailing arms just like the tii's, as a complement to the tii brake booster this car has. it wasn't necessarily difficult, but it is time consuming. the factory welded in a holder for the flexible brake line and a threaded nut to secure the parking brake clamp. i had to file the brake line holder from scratch and welded an 8mm nut for the clamp. i was able to use a sheetmetal hole punch for the brake line which gave it a more OEM look as opposed to a hand filed approximation. as soon as these are done i will be able to reinstall the rear suspension and get this car off the jack stands.

i use two in line filters, and one disposable filter at the base of the gun. i'm using a basic 20 gal 5HP craftsman compressor.

i stand corrected. i was WRONG. although the metal stampings are identical for both sides, when viewed from the top downward you will notice that the inner ring is spotwelded slightly cantered leftward or rightward. i learned something new. thanks FAQ. just saved me some unnecessary heartburn down the road.... edit: aw shucks, you beat me to it. thanks for the photos above. original finish is cad plated. i intend to spray paint mine silver or black for added corrosion protection. i'm more concerned with rust than strict adherence to originality.

no... only one configuration. you need to adjust yours with the thumbscrews. i just disassembled 6 sets to be sent for cadmium plating. all identical....

thanks for the tip. i love hearing about lower cost alternatives. it's been stated before that the beetle uses a similar felt u-channel for our windows as well. also posted a couple years ago was someone's successful use of VW beetle seat pads which, after a little trimming was supposedly a reasonably costed alternative to the BMW piece. i intend to try it, as well. i'm sold on the self adhesive chrome trim alternative to the beltline trim. some profiles are better than others. any more alternatives???

are you using the early 320i intake. if so, i'd love to see more details on configuring it and any machine work required. that's the route i'd like to go if i ever step over to the 'more' modern era...

Bill, i'm seriously considering doing this transplant to an 73 automatic i'm rehabbing for my sister. i have already de-skinned the sunroof panel from the donor per the McGinn method as you've shown. Question: is it possible to install the rear (and front) drain lines without removing the quarter panel? will they snake through the C-pillar cavity and out in the trunk. how did you deal with that?

thanks for asking.... sadly, i can only say that at least i've moved it to a more convenient location. i gave a half-hearted attempt to locate a decent 4-stroke outboard motor for it. since it's gonna be on the bay i don't want to entrust my well being to someone's used 2-stroke rebuilt motor. honestly, i have too many projects at the moment to do anything with this right now. if i only had an enclosed garage, my workspeed would increase.... btw, one of those projects is trying to rebuild the set of Weber 45's that i ultimately ended up with when the original buyer sold them to me after seeing them. i have a guy at work who can weld the bodies, i'm just trying to find a machine shop to do the re-drilling to spec. both carb bodies are cracked. i was hoping at least one could be used on my Lynx manifold.

i use plumber's tape... reasonably priced, readily available, stays pliable almost identical to 3M rolled strips. i've used both products.

yes. the later valves have a small o-ring around the shaft. you can replace with a similar sized o-ring found in a well equipped plumbing section of your favorite hardware store. the earlier valves can be similarly refurbished, too. they are all-brass construction, and, except for the smaller bore diameter are rather well made.

this site is like caffeine, if i don't get my fix, i get a miserable headache....