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jerry

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Everything posted by jerry

  1. jerry
    the issue is more about the wires protruding into the space to be occupied by the cluster assembly plastic housing. it appears that i will have to really smash them into a VERY small confinement to make room. do the wire leads point up, sideways, or down?
  2. jerry
    folks, it's been several years since i took out the instrument cluster on my 6-fuse '71. at present i have the headlights switch on the upper left and the blower motor switch on the lower left position. the terminals connect at right angles to the switch bodies. geeze, it's a very tight fit trying to shoe-horn the instrument cluster in the opening and i stopped trying thinking i could resolve this on my own, but i don't want to crack the plastic body of the instrument cluster getting it in there. any advice on getting this reinstalled without damage? the wire bundles are not very compliant at this point. i'm wondering if i should switch positions of the aforementioned switches because the number of wires differ between the two. thanks in advance.
  3. jerry
    josh, i'll take the trunklock if it's still available. been looking for awhile. jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom
  4. jerry
    that there was FUNNY..... seriously funny.
  5. jerry
    1. Daniel-1968 2002 2. J.R. - 1975 2002 3. Mike - hopefully I'll have my 2002 by then 4. Steve K. - A table with t-shirts. Hopefully 5. Jan - 71 2000tii touring M2 6. Alex - 71 2000tii touring 7. Blunt-Brandon 72tiiA4 8. Cris '73 2002 9. Tom - hopefully driving Joe Oneil's 2000TiLux. Rosee will be driving my "new" '85 518i. I'll be the Parking Manager as usual. 10. Larry Ayers-- '74 Malaga tii; would like to see 100 of you on Saturday! 11. Bob - 74 Sahara - gotta fix my starter problem, otherwise it'll be the 330ci stand-in 12. Sebastian-74 Farm find. Hope to have it driveable by then! 13. Beck - 74 Malaga Tii if i can get it back together in time. Headliner installed today. 14. Kevin (algon) - neither car is ready sadly but I'll be there. I'll have my p.u. truck if anyone local needs something hauled. 15. John - '73 Inka tii. 16. Ray C-73 02 Chamonix -if nothing happens on the way up from Socal 17. Dmitriy - 74 Fjord-ish - if it still has brake fluid 18. Stan-71 malaga with primer door. also will bringing a truck load a spare parts to sell or swap. CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP bring cash 19. Marc-74 turbo tribute with a trunk full of beers. FOR SALE too, not the beers just the car. 20. Michael Dubois - sans 02. 21. Jerry - '88 Acura Legend with rust (praying i'll succeed with my '71 02)
  6. jerry
    it's a fair amount of 'down time' to do a job like this in your friend's garage. even if you know what you are doing, it's a task. however, if time is not an issue, if you are handy, it is most definitely a DIY job. but do your research first. acquaint yourself with the bushing removal methods and installation process first. make yourself an extractor and bushing installation tool. the FAQ Construction forum has a writeup. while you're in there, you'll most likely want to wander off in other small tasks, too...
  7. jerry
    that would be my guess. it can be ground down to parent metal and replated. inspect for cracks AFTER chrome is removed. chrome can indicate cracks by itself without propagating into base metal.
  8. jerry
    scoyote, emailed. i'll take em. thanks vince, i'll call you from work. i'll take yours too. thanks
  9. jerry
    Folks, i'm at the sad point where i've lost control of my parts organization. i wasted so much time today looking for parts i know i have somewhere.... i give up... i need at least two of the zinc diecast brackets that bolt to the inner side, near the front corners that hold the tubular hinge bar. if the schematic appears as intended, i believe it is No.11 shown below. i need these parts to help me get to brisbane in 2 weeks. thanks, jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom
  10. jerry
    agreed. there's something to be said about 'sleepers', and not worrying about shopping carts so much. btw, Paul, i'm about to install that dash i bought from you a year or so ago in my current project. at least the top half anyways.
  11. jerry
    josh, what do you have in mind for betty? you coming to brisbane? i'm busting my chops trying to get a long dormant 02 to drive there....
  12. jerry
    i like Lucky Lager, and the puzzles under the cap keep me entertained for hours trying to figure them out. none better... Mickey 'big mouths', too Miller High Life, Schlitz Malt Liquor Colt 45 Coors Lite Pabst Blue Ribbon Milwaukee's Finest add an ice cube or two for an extra special treat.
  13. jerry
    remove the bearings with a brass or hard plastic drift. they really are quite durable. it's really not a big deal to protect the inner surface during blasting. incidental exposure to blast is not going to hurt the ID. you can always ask the 'Master Blaster' to avoid the area. i've blasted many trailing arms without harmful effect and i do not cover the area. the ID's can be taped off for powder coating after thorough cleaning. one other tip: never use a blaster as a means to remove grease, grime, etc. parts should be clean and dry. the media will last longer if used only for paint and rust removal.
  14. jerry
    sorry, didn't mean to bust your chops over this. hilarious is too intense of a response to describe my initial reaction, more like a chuckle (or a smirk), actually. the OP included the word Stereo in the title. OK, 'stereo' can be a generic reference to a radio, but....
  15. jerry
    seriously???? i couldn't, not comment. while i'm here, i am searching for some old time Blaupunkt knobs, 60's vintage, non-white. mono or stereo jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom
  16. jerry
    that is obviously hyperbole, but i'm guessing the OP's intent was to characterize the overzealous nanny-state we find ourselves in.
  17. jerry
    this happened to me 2 weeks ago. i tried the 2x4 method but no love. if i banged it any harder i'd have caved the tailpanel in. i do not recommend it. it would only work on a well lubricated lock mechanism. i ended up removing one of the speakers from the rear deck. i happened to have a long rod with a small 'burr' on the end of it. you do not really need a hook, just something to catch the edge of the lever on the locking mechanism and pull forward. if you do not have rear speakers in the deck. you can accomplish the same thing by removing the rear seat and drilling a 5/8 -3/4 inch hole in your rear panel. use a flashlight to identify the locking mechanism lever. locate your drilling area at about mid-panel. if you already have holes, use them. you could probably fashion a suitable pull-rod from a 36-48inch section of 3/8in rebar. file a notch at the end such that you create a burr similar to what is found on a fish-hook. i was able to pop mine open in about 45 seconds when i used this method.
  18. jerry
    Earl, your link arms look like the set i was able to buy off eBay... i do not have the inlet manifolds with the integral mount post as you are using. i've got the OEM ti ones and a lookalike set. i'll have to sort out how to support my linkage rod. i called pierce manifold and i think they have the air horns i seek!!!! it's gonna cost me, though. thanks for the tip.
  19. jerry
    +1 just console yourself in the knowledge that our great legislative body and the other regulatory agencies that feed off them are all smarter than you or me and they know what's best for us. Rest assured, they have your best interests in mind....
  20. jerry
    earl, i recently won a bid on an set of authentic Mikuni link arms on eBay. they are not the center-pull setup i'd have preferred, but those center pulls seem to go for really stupid money >$200. my linkage consists of two independent linkarms actuating each carb. each linkarm is shorten/lengthened to synchronize them. i guess i should update the title to reflect my continuing search for mikuni airhorns. i hadn't thought to ask pierce manifolds about mikuni parts. DCOE 45 airhorns will work. i just want the uniquely japanese looking mikuni airhorns if i can find em.
  21. jerry
    goosh, that sounds a bit harsh in retrospect, don't you think??? it sounds like he's just a working stiff who happens to work at BMW and was admiring your car. it is true that the ever increasing cost of parts is making these cars less accessible, but BMW is not a charity. i just shamelessly reuse/reconfigure and adapt as necessary for my parts needs. and yes, i do buy new parts when absolutely necessary; mostly parts to keep water out of the cabin.
  22. jerry
    still looking. got a bite from a chap in the UK asking for my phone number so he could call me to discuss my needs. i suggested that he email photos of what he has so we could have a more intelligent conversation. that's the last i heard from him....
  23. jerry
    Solex DDH's and the aluminum casting ADDHE's have more in common with the Mikuni PHH's. there's a great write-up on rebuilding these carbs floating on the internet somewhere.
  24. jerry
    fyi, a ti clock has a couple numerals on the faceplate: 12, 3,6,9 IIRC and the Kienzle is in scripted text. i have a clock like yours that i believe i pulled out of a Mercedes Benz. the resemblance is close.
  25. jerry
    actually, aside from the overall appearance of the tii engine bay, you'd be surprised what a day or two of scrubbing and vacuuming can do for these cars. a Bavaria may be a good freeway cruiser, but i think you'd have a better chance of selling the tii off if you had to in the future. you might want to take a closer look at the steering box in one of those roundies. is that the hint of reddish-orange paint i see? could be a quick-ratio one, if so. part number ending in '177' will be the key. the bavaria does appear from this distance to be closer to roadworthy than any of the others, though. at the very least, they should be offered up as restoration projects, or donor pieces to save others. what a dilemna you have... good luck to your father. you have more pressing issues right now.
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