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Leucadian

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Everything posted by Leucadian

  1. Leucadian
    Agreed! Gotta stick it on the rear bumper too. Or give it the BaT treatment; cabin mounted GoPro with external mic at the exhaust.
  2. Leucadian
    Check your rear subframe to body support bracket. Official part name is a 'push rod', over time those can crack and fail and eventually the bracket contacts the frame rail, causing a buzz. ask me how I know.
  3. Leucadian
    Any reason these wouldn't fit a non tii?
  4. Leucadian
    ECS tuning sells them. It won't let me post the link for some reason - $67 Just make sure the style is correct.
  5. Leucadian
    I just had a similar experience with a shop in San Diego. I've got either bad valve guides/seals or bad rings. "$15,000 for a full rebuild, we won't do valve guides/seals only" - Pass.
  6. Leucadian
    I think he means "overcast".
  7. Leucadian
    Wow....these updates are the best part of my day.
  8. Leucadian
    You may want to consider a 150psi gauge. Depending on where you live, you could peg the gauge on a cold morning. Edit - This is the oil pressure sender I used, benefit is that it also keeps the functionality of the oil light intact. Oil Pressure - VDO-350108
  9. Leucadian
    Resurrecting this one, still hunting for a 380mm Petri!
  10. Leucadian
    FWIW - I had a similar issue, 3:00 under normal driving conditions, but hill climbing and freeway driving I was in the 1:00/2:00 range. After replacing the t-stat to no avail, I ended up replacing the rad, which solved the issue. Like SOM said, could just need a flush.
  11. Leucadian
    If you have a bench vise, your should be able to stick the pedal in there and bend it back.
  12. Leucadian
    When GME goes to the moon, I'll be reaching out to you guys. Amazing stuff, truly impressive.
  13. Leucadian
    A happy 2's to you as well!
  14. Leucadian
    What condition is your slave in? I had the same issue when I did my MC, and the increased pressure of the new MC caused the slave to fail. Replaced the slave, bled the system and everything worked fine.
  15. Leucadian
    PM sent
  16. Leucadian
    Pretty special that you have such a history with the car. Happy Birthday Wolfgang!
  17. Leucadian
    My OCD thanks you for matching the aux gauges to the cluster. Nicely done!
  18. Leucadian
    This little guy?
  19. Leucadian
    +1 to replace them both. I only replaced my master, and not the slave, ended up causing the slave to fail shortly after. I also rebuilt my pedal box at the same time. Easily one of the most satisfying, and rewarding jobs you can work on in our cars.
  20. Leucadian
    Saw this article on Jalopnik, seems like an interesting solution to rust-proofing. How I Got My Car Professionally Undercoated And Injected With Oil To Prevent Rust JALOPNIK.COM My 1965 Plymouth Valiant is going to need as much help as it can get to avoid rusting away this winter. Rocker panels filled with oil sure would do the trick...Anyone heard of this stuff before?
  21. Leucadian
    This seems like too many washers at the tranny mount? I had the driveshaft rebuilt a few years ago, and I remember the mechanic saying that he thought the tranny was too low, so he added washers. I never noticed until now. Seems counterintuitive though, if the diff is higher, because of the new bushings, wouldn't I have to raise the tranny too to account for the higher diff? I may pull half the washers and see if that helps. And there is a very very small amount of clearance between guibo and selector rod, not sure about under load though. Otherwise, shifter mounting blocks look fine. Edit: I also realized that when I replaced my radiator a couple years back (after the washers were installed) the engine was tipped too far forward, and I had to shave my radiator fan down so it would clear. Couldn't figure out why at the time...now I know
  22. Leucadian
    So I swapped the fluid, and everything looked fine, no shavings, burnt smell, metal chunks, etc. But, after I took it for a test-drive, I pulled up on the shifter, and the noise went away! So I think the culprit is my shift selector hitting my guibo. When I was under there, I did notice a small amount of goo on the shift selector rod. I think what happened is when I swapped the bushings for the diff hanger, the old ones were completely blown out and the center of the bushing was almost sitting on the metal outer ring. So when I swapped out for new, I ended up raising the diff slightly, causing the guibo to contact the shift selector rod. Anyway, that's my theory. Next question is how do I go about lowering the diff/driveshaft so that the guibo and shift selector rod play nice?
  23. Leucadian
    I actually have a set of H4's, and they work great! It's less a matter of seeing and being seen, and more about everyone else on the road. Driving around San Diego is harrowing enough nowadays, even in a car with airbags...
  24. Leucadian
    Weekend warrior for me, and local road-tripper. It's been to Palm Springs, LA, Santa Barbara, and Ojai, but always in fair weather. On occasion, I'll take it to work with me during the week, but only during daylight savings time. I try to not drive at night, if I can help it...Curious if anyone else avoids night-time driving?
  25. Leucadian
    Oddly, your thoughts echo my own.
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