Leucadian

This is what I used as well, worked great:

Ended up printing a small spacer bar to close the gap between the pedal and the throttle arm bushing Added some teflon tape as well for good measure, and now no more buzz!

Was it a larger bushing to fill the extra space in the pedal slide? I just ordered a synchrometer to check to see if things are in sync as I think they are (based on everyone's input, they may not be) I'll probably pick up the Hal's linkage and call it a day

Masterpiece! Well done Ken!

It also really depends on where you live? Would I DD an 02 in LA, absolutely not. Are you a lumberjack, and your commute is through the backroads of the Pacific Northwest? Then yes, I would drive that car everyday.

Thanks Mike. It does have the little ferrule. I've got some slick tape, so we'll see if that helps.

Sage advice sir - I'll see what I can do to preload the pedal box arm against the rear of the pedal slide. I'll see how long the push linkage keeps everything synced, it's only been a few months...Worst case, I'll swap out the whole linkage for the @halboyles system.

Ever since the car was converted to DCOEs I've had a intermittent buzz in the pedal when my foot is off the gas and on the brake. Right now, the carbs are soft mounted, and the pedal linkage is a single piece of bent hex stock, fabricated by Ronin Auto, the connects the linkage to the pedal. I suspect the hard mounted nature of the hex stock is what's causing the buzz to be transferred to the pedal. The gas pedal itself is new and the floor nubs are in good shape, so there's no play at the pedal/floor connection. I have access to a resin based 3D printer in my office, and I was thinking of printing a spacer that would close the gap between the pedal arm and the pedal slide, shown in red below. Or, I could find an additional bushing that's larger than the one that is currently on the pedal linkage. I'm a little worried about reducing the amount of play between the two elements and causing the pedal to bind. Seems like there might be an easier fix. I've read in another thread that adjusting the idle can eliminate the sympathetic vibration in the pedal, but the buzz only occurs at decel. Maybe a rubber bushing between the pedal box linkage and the hex bar connection to isolate the buzz? The car runs great, and I haven't had any issues with the carbs coming out of synch, so I'd rather try and keep my carb linkage setup as is, and just fix the buzz. Open to ideas!

I can hear this photo... Amazing stuff, as usual.

Apparently some insurance companies will insure a car that is garaged in one state and insured in another. There are dozens of threads on Rennlist.com about who to contact, how to set up your LLC, who to insure, etc. Seems like one would just need to do their research. Ultimately, it's become so common in California that they've setup an anonymous reporting system to report abuse of out of state plates. Bottom line, if you don't get caught, it's relatively painless. But if you do...the costs will most likely outweigh the benefits.

Lots of exotic cars around San Diego are "from Montana"...no vehicle sales tax there.

Got a set of BBR filters. No more open stacks, but the fit and finish is great, and I don't have to worry about sucking random foreign objects into my engine.

Installed @BLUNT wire loom and wire protectors today. They work great along with the red sleeves I think it needs some tidying up still, I have to figure out if I want to cinch the ends of the sleeves down at the ends. Makes my valve cover look pretty shabby....

If you end up using a brass pivot pin, make sure you grease it first, otherwise it will squeak whenever the clutch is depressed.

Doesn't look like it. If you could send them that'd be great. Thanks!

Got some goodies from ITG and @BLUNT One of their fancy new spark plug/wire loom setups. As much as I love running open stacks, it's time for some filters for the DCOEs. I cringe every time I drive close enough to the water to see beach sand blowing across the road...

Looking for a set of BBS RS in the typical 02' fitment (non-flared). I've got a line on a refinished set, but I'd like to see if there's anything in the used market. Thanks!

Thanks all @Mark92131 Those look promising. Cheaper than the ITG setup I was looking at.

Bumping this: Currently looking at filter solutions, and I may end up going with the IE stacks. Does anyone have any idea if the DCOE Spanish 40 stacks come properly sleeved, like IE shows with the 45s? Or are they still sleeveless? Website still shows them as the incorrect condition: I know they're out of stock right now, but I was told they were going to be restocked soon.

Make sure they don't paint the hood latch bar.

Resurrecting this. I'm looking at running the dual JC20 setup (50mm height) but I'm curious as to what velocity stacks to order? Should I order the smallest that ITG make? These are going on a new set of Weber 40's

Amazing work guys. The welds on my torsion bar just started to fail, seems like the right choice to replace the whole hood....and trunk. Roof too.

Not to thread hijack, but I was wondering the same thing, except with 2 JC20's as opposed to the sausage. at 2 9/16" it looks like it would definitely hit the booster, but not by much

In honor of my new Dual DCOE setup... New plates!