gliding_serpent2

Ha. My new limited slip diff goes in the front axle correct? Funny typo... I will change it.

So lesson learned. I had my tii's distributer rebuilt this winter. I marked the position for removal. Thing is... Now i have a shiny rebuilt distributer without a mark or and good photo to document ideal position. Thoughts on how to approach this? I am new to this aspect of the engine... So have patience. I will have help from those who know better than i, but i was looking for guidance for a starting point. I will take a crash course of my haynes and restoration guide tonight... I sm just looking to see if there is a visual alignment starting point.

I love it. Just ordered 3... Message sent about me being in canada.

Google "tire bible page 4" It will have all the tire calculators you will ever need. I use it all the time

I find forum search engines to generally be crap (one on a mazda form i went to was usless... Even using the correct key words), but this one generally works well as long as you know the correct key words.

Longer exhaust pipe...

Good luck. When i was sourcing parts for my rebuild i ran into the "oops we dont have that... It is on indefinate backorder" countless times with pistons and an oil pump. Finally got a new oil pump from bavauto for a steal (others new the rarity are charged accordingly) and got pistons from IE.

You get what you pay for...

I cant comment on either, but this is a tribute to frustrations i have with tires. At a certain point i figure that 200aa a tires or whatever they may be must all be pretty similar but with tradeoffs for dry vs wet performance, grip vs durability, precision vs comfort etc. sometimes i want to throw my hands up, and just roll the dice and pick one. The car and driver "monsters of grip" blinded back to back objective and subjective comparisons are the best to date, but the last is from 2012, so is not super current. Still, read around and get multiple opinions as i am sure you are. Good news for my tii is that high performance summer tires in 13 or 14 have only a few choices, which makes my decisions easy.

I guess my issue is the 2002 turbo photo.

I searched before posting, so though I would resurrect. Link is below. Need I say more... sigh. http://www.roadandtrack.com/51coolest/51-coolest-cars-of-the-last-50-years-1970s#slide-10

Diy is only cheaper if you have the time, space, tools, desire, understanding family, 3 x more money than you budgeted, 4 x more time than you expected, and experience. If you lack the last point, increase time and cost more. If you choose to get someone else to do it, make sure tgey have lots of experience. Their quoted price will be right because they know. I got killed because there is no local expertise. I hind sight i bet i would have saved money shipping my car from canada to the us for the work.

To paraphrase what has been said... Don't bite off more than you can chew. Everything sounds easy on the internet. Most people exaggerate. Lots of rust... I bet you would save a lot of time and money selling your car, and paying more for a sorted rust free car.

This is basically what my car had pre rebuild. I keep it in storage just in case.

I personally cleaned it, roughed it up a bit, taped off the chrome, and used silver rust paint. Dupicolor, nothing fancy

Tii vs e30 m3 = both

Here is some FYI info on ratios that may helped me get an idea of the effect of tire size and diff ratios, on speed and rpm. I did these calculations to help me manage expectations at the track and to compare my current setup options, and help me plan future options. After my first driving course with my Tii on our local tight track I was able to get an estimated 90-95mph on the back straight in fourth using the "street cruising setup" below. Classic stock: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th) 3.64:1 open diff Michelin XAS 165/80/13 tires (22.4567 inches diameter, stock size) 6000rm 110.1mph Street "cruising" Setup: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th) 3.64:1 open diff Falken 615K 195/60/14 tires (22.28 inches diameter, 0.77% smaller) 6000rm 109.3mph Track setup: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th) e21 3.91:1 LSD Falken 615K 195/60/14 tires (22.28 inches diameter, 0.77% smaller) 6000rm 101.8mph Autocross/Track setup: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th) e21 3.91:1 diff Toyo R888 205/60/13 tires (21.78 inches diameter, 3% smaller) I do not have these tires. 6000rm 99.47mph Autocross setup: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th) e21 3.91:1 diff Toyo R888 185/60/13 tires (20.87 inches diameter, 7% smaller) 6000rm 95.2mph useful links... http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html http://math.about.com/library/blcirclecalculator.htm http://www.csgnetwork.com/speedcalc.html

Here is some FYI info on ratios that helped me get an idea of the effect of tire size and diff ratios, on speed and rpm. I did these calculations to help me manage expectations at the track and to compare my current setup options, and help me plan future options. Classic stock: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th)http://www.bmw2002faq.com/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=new_post&f=8 3.64:1 open diff Michelin XAS 165/80/13 tires (22.4567 inches diameter, stock size) 6000rm 110.1mph Street "cruising" Setup: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th) 3.64:1 open diff Falken 615K 195/60/14 tires (22.28 inches diameter, 0.77% smaller) 6000rm 109.3mph Track setup: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th) e21 3.91:1 LSD Falken 615K 195/60/14 tires (22.28 inches diameter, 0.77% smaller) 6000rm 101.8mph Autocross/Track setup: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th) e21 3.91:1 diff Toyo R888 205/60/13 tires (21.78 inches diameter, 3% smaller) I do not have these tires. 6000rm 99.47mph Autocross setup: 1:1 transmission ratio (4 speed in 4th) e21 3.91:1 diff Toyo R888 185/60/13 tires (20.87 inches diameter, 7% smaller) 6000rm 95.2mph useful links... http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html http://math.about.com/library/blcirclecalculator.htm http://www.csgnetwork.com/speedcalc.html

Great review.

great show

So about 20nm. My torque wrench did not go that low so i just fudged it as close as i could.

Ireland engineering because they are 2002 guys and to date i have been very happy with their stuff.

Anyone know the torque specs or the alternate name for these bolts so i can figure torque specs out in the tech article? 20nm?

Andrew mentions blue lock tight in his article, but would you guys advise anything else?

Same here. In my e90 328 i was going for a country drive and an audi starts tailing me very close (i am not a slow driver, but i was really putting at that point). I steadely picked up the pace going into a series of s curves. Each curve i just got on the power harder without braking. He quickly fell off the pace. Same happened when i passed a line of 6 cars on a two way back road. I hammered by and a civic si behind the lead car followed me. He was right on my tail on the straight roads. I lowered my speed to 120kph not wanting to race or be stupid (limit was 80). As we entered a twisty part of the road i just held my speed without breaking. He tried to keep up at first, but as turns kept coming and things got tighter i just held it and he was nowhere to be seen. When the road straightened again i slowed up to let him catch me. He kept his distance. In my tii i never get crowded because no one catches me. I drive fast on two lane back roads. I give people room and pass them when clear and legal. When getting tires mounted at a local shop the owner asked about my tii saying "you must have quite the engine in that thing because i saw you just fly by me last week". He was surprised to learn it was stock