gliding_serpent2

welcome! I like the sound of all of your plans for the car. Looks great as is too.

No just no. Too much history with my car. Unless you are talking silly, in which case any one of Ferrari 250 GTO, Shelby Daytona, D-type, 917...

No prob. He had fastest lap, and fastest average laps in his Tii, and it was his first time there.

Shots taken back in 1972-1974 by my dad. My mom took the ones of him in his (now my) riviera blue tii at Mosport. Denny Hulme. 3rd place Canadian Grand Prix 1972 Gilles Villeneuve pre F1. Atlantic Motorsport Park where I drive. Still holds lap record. Jackie Stewart. 1st place 1972 Canadian Grand Prix Jean-Pierre Beltoise. Retired with an oil leak

I will eat my shorts if we get the 4c at 2200lbs as an option. After it is slathered with 50 airbags to make it safer without wearing a seatbelt as per the standards, it is rumored to go upwards of 2600+ lbs. press cars to date have been stripped out lotus style, hense lotus weights. Likley they will pull a porsche and slap a rs on the stripper version, and sell it to you for more. I would love a 1.8 exige... But without the new exige s coming stateside, prices are still astronomical, even for a base elise. Hoping the 4c tempts a few lotus guys over, puting more lotuses on the market, and bringing prices back to reality.

The new little alfa 4c comes at 2000lbs euro spec, 2200lbs us spec w rwd and a turbo 4-banger that shoots it around at a super car like pace. 240hp. The out of production lotus exige s 240 also has identical power and weight. However, for both cars wave practicality goodbye.

I look at it this way. This is my upgrade importance hierarchy, you get more expensive as you go down the list. 1. Drivers education. Cheap upfront, expensive if you become addicted. 2. Tires: a good set helps handling (track/autocross) astronomically and can be a reasonable price. Will not directly help power, but you will carry more speed out of corners. To get the most out of them you need... 3. Suspension: sways, springs, shocks and camber plates. Lets you keep the tubber on the road. Essential for the track/autocross if you are serious. 4. Stage 1 weight reduction: you are getting serious so throw out non essential things like the spare, tools, etc, but everything can be put back in if needed. You might even put in light race seats or remove the rear seats. 4. Engine: cams, exhaust, headers, pistons, carbs, bigger rad, light flywheel, you name it. How much power do you want? How much do you want to spend? I saw a race m10 claiming over 200hp. Big buck to do this right and durability will always suffer. 5. Engine v2: turbos/engine swaps etc. custom costs a lot, but dont underestimate the costs of 4. Power is expensive either way. 6. Stage 2 weight reduction: screw this you want a race car. Rip anything out not welded down and replace as much as you can with fiberglass or plastic. Throw in a cage. 7. Realization: it would be much cheaper to buy a modern car to get the same performance. But then where is the fun in that?

The car was put in storage last week after getting a starter core swap, continuous timing chain, engine tune (running a bit rich), and new steering tie rods, and a few other things. Gave it a good run and fell in love again (it was not run much in the fall due to the timing chain and being too busy to get to it). Now it is in storage, and i am counting the days until spring. Will get a distributer rebuild however while waiting.

Not roadside per say, but I always get looks, and car guys that know always come to chat.

I will be keeping them. British yes, but coming from my dads first car gives them too much history to unload. Plus I like the look.

thanks guys! car is in storage for the winter so this will be a spring job.

Skimming the head increases compression, but too much and your valve alignment will be off... And if you ever need to reface the head down the road in a rebuild... You may not have enough wiggle room, and may need a new head. Dont do it. Bang for buck go-fast? Bmw high performance driving weekend or similar. Upgrade what is between the ears first. Get some cheap 6x14 e30 bottlecap rims (mine were 100$ for four) and x4 falken 615k's (115$ each for me). Uprated shocks and springs will allow you to get the most out of them. I run IE sways, stage 1springs, and bilstein hd shocks for great street comfort and lap times that top my 09 328.

I did a bit of light car cover research recently. I came to no conclusions, and was going to post once i decided on indoor vs outdoor needs. I think i am just leaning to an indoor dust cover.

Toyo makes the r888 proxies in 185/60/13 (6% smaller than stock rolling diameter) and 205/60/13 (~3% smaller but be weary of wheel clearance and offset, and suspension as may rub). Both are street legal compititian tires, do likley too aggressive (and $$$) for a daily car.

Enjoy. Great diy cars if you have the time/skill/tools/space for diy. If not, get your pocket book out. I like your strategy of buying a well sorted car. Spending more upfront can save you tons as long down the road if you pick the right car. Dont rush. See a handfull of cars... For sale or not for sale, to get a feel for vairious levels of repair, desrepair, and driving feel.

These were bought in 1967 by my dad for his Austin 1100. There were later transferred to his 71 2002... and then to his new (now my) 73 Tii that he traded the 2002 for. They are Lucas "pencil beam" flamethrowers, probably not worth much... would be willing to sell cheap as I am sure the colored lens makes them even less valuable... Just kidding. Anyway, can anyone confirm if they are 576's? Car just went into storage and I totally forgot to measure them. I was hoping to get covers but found surprisingly little, but figured that confirming the model would make my searches easier.

Washed the car last night with a high pressure wand. Today i hand wased and waxed it. (I.e. The car was dry in the end) On the drivers side window, the vertical fabric seal that is on the leading edge is shot, and i removed much of it this summer, with the best intentions to replace it. So when i was done shining my car, i did a little drive. Rolled my window down, but when i rolled it back up... Water droplets across the window. My thought would be that this is just water caught between the (decient) rubber, and the glass. Worst case scenario... My removed fabric seal left a passage open to the depths of my door. Thoughts. I am betting on option #1. I think i have old car paranoia with all i have been through reciently.

Reason #57 why i the wrong rebuilder was chosen. Not setting valves before running, timing chain master link clips, no pins in suspension links, missing bracket. Should i also trust that the old oil pump shims in the parts box were not needed with a new pump and chain? (You dont need to answer that one...) I am quite surprised the car still runs... Thank god someone else who knew what they were doing finished the work.

Just an update. The engine was running a bit rich. Idle has smoothed out and no smoke

The part on the front subframe Is this what i think it is?

I seem to be good at exceptions. Also had failure of both timing chain master link retaining clips.... Trying to find the common denominator here. Likely will see it when brushing my teeth.

Agreed, part of the reason for posting is to get insight into a possible cause. Treat the problem, not the symptom. Thanks for the tip on the later mount. Will discuss with Blunt.