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gliding_serpent2

Solex
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Everything posted by gliding_serpent2

  1. Hi folks. I now have the yakima mount set up on my 02. I need to decide on a wind faring width. I think the m1 measurement (between two supports at the bar) was 39inches. So yakima suggests a 46inch faring. Is that about right? What do others run for width?
  2. I assume you are using 48inch bars. 40inch faring? any chrome bar options for the yakima?
  3. I have a roundie tii. I was looking at yakima t1a guttermounts, round rails, and a wind fearing. are there trunk mount options?
  4. I know this is raising the dead.... but is this still for sale?
  5. As i ride bikes more, and drive less, i need an excuse to drive my tii. What are good rack options? Yakima came up on a few older threads. I am also 100% sure i had a thread on this topic a few months ago... but i will be damned if i can find it (looked through my activity). Wonder if it was removed?
  6. Hard to argue the benefits of a minivan to transport bikes. I thought it was soul sucking... until we got one. It is soul sucking... but so easy, and superior for the task. The only thing lacking is hipster cred. And combining two interest (classic cars and biking) is pretty sweet.
  7. Nice. My 911 might get the call now and then also.
  8. Tell me more about that wind faring! Those are not just on trend vintage stickers... they are vintage bike stickers. Very cool!!!!
  9. Do you folks clear-bra the attachment points? I have some 3m. I also have a thule for my old mazda speed3. Maybe that fits...
  10. Man, long time no post. Tii’s seem to have gone up in price... saw one go for 45k on bring a trailer. Anyway, in my absence i finished a 911 restoration, started racing, flipped my race car 4.5 times (after the best of times!), and got into biking. And then i found this very cool Silca shirt. I guess they used the 2002 for their support vehicles for their racing teams. Anyway, i figured it might be time to stop turning my nose up at all the “on trend” bike racks (is it still on trend?) and actually get a rack... to use for actually carrying bikes. How awesome of a biking adventure would that be???? Any advice for a jaded man like me? (Aside from “shove it”)
  11. The problem with the "dibs" part is that some people immediatly post dibs... and then delay, haggle, etc in private, or just do not follow up. So a true on the spot buyer can get passed up. 5 can get missed. And it is then just a hassle for the seller. or one person shows interest, pulls out... and then the seller has to contact the next person... wait for them to reply with time zones, life delays... and with a little bad luck you waste a week. First come first serve is the only rule i know. (That of highest bidder if i chose to sell on ebay). It is my job to declare that as a seller. So for me a part goes to whomever contacts me first with my asking price and cash (paypal) in hand. Pm or post. I look at the time. A post alone means nothing to me (i am not chasig down a buyer), So you better be pming me with questions and or contact info to arrange payment. But if you let me know you are interested by pm or post, i will contact you if the first person falls through. But i think it is key for the seller to outline the rules of engagement... it is amazing how many people, and good people, will get nasty/difficult over car parts. First come, first serve... and as a buyer i never assume a post of intention or "next in line" means anything. I always pm with a phone number if i am serous in buying. In the end a seller can sell to who ever they wish. The only true no-no in my mind is taking one persons money (or agreeing to a deal), and then selling to a higher bidder (or in the buyers case, pulling out last minute or trying to renegotiate).
  12. But open carry is fine in many places. Makes you wonder.
  13. As the Tii took a back set to another car project, it has been used, but maybe left a little bit neglected. This year has been a good one however. It took 1st place for best sports car at a local car show. This weekend i decided to load in the family and take them into the city for the weekend. This morning I took it for a bmw club am drive. It was a fun weekend. I remember this car as a very young child (my dad was the original owner), and hopefully my kids will have similar memories. It still holds its own on the highway, and in the bends. Great weekend!
  14. I keep forgetting to do that. The result of minimal time and my focus on my 911 project.
  15. The slow saga continues. the fuel tank has some rust, and the fuel pickup was gummed up in rust, but it in great shape when cleaned up. There was some dirty nastiness at the base of the tank, so it was flushed. Chemical cleaning and sealing is next. The fuel line from the tank to the pump looked clear... But 43 years old. So that was replaced. the fuel pump no longer sputters and spits. I wont call it silent, but it is steady and sounds fine to my ears. There is no change to my afr's or overall running... But it is good this was done. Timing still spot on. Knock on wood, car is no longer stalling in idle when hot. Pump is getting 1000mls in 25 seconds via the return fuel line, so fuel seems fine.
  16. agreed... cracked it again this evening and came up with a few gems noted above.
  17. My plan of attack 1. pretty sure the fuel pickup fro the tank +/- the line to the electric pump is gummed up... causing a loud fuel pump given a new pump did not solve the noise. 2. Clean out the tank while at it. 3. the test fuel flow on fuel return line with 30 seconds ignition (target 850-1000cc). No wot or high rpm issues, so I think it will be ok. 4. test afr's with vac line from warmup regulator clamped to be sue this is not an issue as far as leaks 5. Recheck timing at 2500rpm 6. Check valves
  18. Kapt, your thread is excellent. Your link to the hack mechanics thread is one that set me on this trail: this sounds like my car: "Played with this a bit more. Now have the AFM reading about 13.5 at WOT for a variety of conditions. But now that I have it dialed in better at WOT, I can watch it at partial throttle conditions, and what I'm seeing is that, at steady throttle (say, 65 on the highway), it's reading between 13 and 14, but the moment I crack the throttle, even a little, like to keep up with traffic, it still swings lean, like 15 to 16, whereas if I punch it (WOT), it goes to about 13.5. Then it does a similar thing on backing off the throttle -- it swings rich, like 10.5 to 11, until you lift all the way off the throttle, where it swings very lean, like 16, which has been explained as the cylinders continuing to suck in air. This is unchanged whether I have the small vacuum hose on the throttle body hooked up to the breather hose from the valve cover, or whether I have the small vacuum hose plugged. In a prior post, Jimk in Denver wrote: "With the use of an A/F gauge, a vacuum leak will appear under idle or low load conditons. If the A/F is ok on WOT and also low loads, the problem is not fuel. If ok on WOT but not ok under low load, continue looking for leaks. If not ok on WOT but ok under light load, fuel adjustments are needed. An A/F gauge will also show lean condition if there is misfiring due to electrical causes (i.e., O2 in the exhaust)." Am I correct in assuming that, even though I have it dialed in better at WOT, this still smells like a vacuum leak?" And this is what got me thinking I could do better: (curse you bill williams) "I took the yellow car out and tried to keep one bad eye on the road and one bad eye on the AFR gauge. At start up and at idle during warm-up, the meter read about 13.2 after a run, the idle reading dropped to about 13.0 I ran the car, on the throttle, cruising and off the throttle. While on the throttle and cruising, the gauge read, with some small variation, around 13.2 to 13.8. Off throttle and it would pop between 14s and low 15s I had the car around 140 kph (87 - 90 mph) and it still was averaging around 13.2 while getting to that speed and cruising briefly at that speed. And to be expected, there were the occasional blips of higher and lower reading but just blips"
  19. Another question, what does an fuel pickup unit issue usually present as? This is next in line given fuel pump issues? (what I presume to be an issue, Or maybe a loud, occasionally sputtering fuel pump is normal??) edit: page 140 of the restoration guide mentions that a loud pump is often due to a partly clogged fuel supply line to the pump. So i need to check the mesh from the fuel pickup unit... And the hose to the pump. Also, In 30 seconds of running the pump only, when measuring from the disconnected fuel return line, i should also get 850-1000cc of fuel.
  20. I should also add the the warmup regularor does open to the full position, and it does not respond to a spray of carb cleaner when sprayed in various locations. I wonder how useful that technique is for smaller leaks. I will try the carb cleaner again in the am when the regulator is cold. Just to verify that the technique actually makes a detectable change in idle.
  21. Well, fuel pump replaced, and fuel filer changed... And we still have the same noise issue with the pump. If anything... The new pump might be louder. Here it is on before starting the engine. Maybe this is normal? Seems louder to me. Sadly i have no real baseline to compare to. I do have the expansion chamber. Thoughts? Pull the hose off the top of the pump and measure fuel delivery rate? in the meantime, I reasdjusted my idle speed up slightly so the car would not stall out on idle when warm.
  22. Some data from other posts:. I need to take note of checking timing again " .......all that, above, plus (i'm blue in the face) -correct valve adjustment --good even compression readings ---FUEL PRESSURE TEST READINGS ----igniton timing set at 2500 rpm -----NEW gas in the tank ------clean , not gas deluted motor oil everyone will contribute to your running problems" "Before you take apart the regulator -- take the regulator off and check to see if the coolant passages are clear. Put the regulator in boiling water and see if it does rise to 10mm. But, before you do that -- so some more checks: 1. When the engine is warm does the eccentric screw bottom out? If it does not, it would indicate there is continuing fuel enrichment. Loosen the nut over the cone on the regulator to make sure the screw bottoms out when hot. This takes the fuel enrichment out. Do you still have the issue? 2. Again, when engine is warm, clamp off air hose that connects the warmup regulator to the bottom of the throttle body. This takes the warm up circuit out of play. Any change? I think the regulator can be taken apart, but start with the above." i need to find that hose to the warmup regulator, and plug it off when things are warm. That will tell me if the regulator is part of the issue.
  23. Can someone comment on the brake booster leak concept. I am having a hard time thinking it is playing a big role. Shouldn't one expect pumping the brakes to lean out the mixture? Aren't booster intake leaks often loud?
  24. Thank you for the thoughtful reply. My issue is that things get leanest at 90%throttle... Then the are fine at wot. Light throttle very rich to lean at near full throttle, back to the middle with WOT. The spread currently is about 4 points on the afr gauge. It used to be 12-16, now it is more 10-14. I would prefer to adjust it again to 11-15. It isninteresting if this kind of spread is normal. I know most don't have wide band gauges. But i seem to be running off of old expectations that you can get things more precise. Also, given that minimal pedal travel can richen my mixture out 2 or more points, and then lean it way out as you get close to wot, it just makes me think that the verticle butterfly shaft (name?) may be out of round and the pump lever and throttle butterfly are just not synched. And when warm, my car hates to idle... If you are not light on the gas, it will stall. Does not seem overly rich... Which is off. Cold idle is fine. Fuel pump is next, even if it is not part of the issue, it is loud... So time to go. I think the key is to just keep at it.
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