Cyclone101

It's the tyres, squealing is mostly down to compound. I had Yokohama A539s that squealed like a pig in a tumble dryer, even at slow speeds long before I reach their limits, on the other hand, my Pirelli P7s won't even chirp when in a full drift. Same car, same tyre size.

My car has been running cold for a while now, and since it had many problems keeping me from driving it I never bothered fixing it. The needle is just above the blue and about two years ago I changed the thermostat to a new 80'C one, but I suspect it was a dud as it would sometimes get stuck closed and my car would overheat, so I swapped back the old one. Today I bought another 80'C thermostat and before installing it I tested it (without a thermometer), and it seemed to work fine, after installing it, the car still indicates just above the blue. I am now suspecting either the temp sender or the gauge cluster. Is there any way to test those components before buying new parts? Could there be other reasons the car runs cold? Could a bad ground cause it to read low? Any help would be appreciated. Regards Jacques

No, unfortunately not. I guess I should have clarified that. I only uploaded the article from Petrolicious. Regards Jacques

I enjoy the simplicity of older cars but really love how a BMW 2002 drives. They are nimble but still give you that old school feel. I find myself taking the long way home or finding any excuse to just get out for a spin. LINK: http://www.petrolicious.com/this-bmw-2002-is-greater-than-the-sum-of-its-parts?utm_content=buffer226e5&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer Owner: Josh Wilson Year, Make, and Model: 1972 BMW 2002 Location: Savannah, Missouri Photographer: Courtney Cutchen This car was actually featured here on Petrolicious last fall but since then the interior has been redone, wheels swapped, and it sits a little lower. Some other touches have been added to change up the look. The goal was to keep the car simple and period correct, but also to add some touches that don't make it come off as another semi-restoration. Under the hood, the 2002 remains mostly stock except for a 32/38 Weber carburetor and E21 radiator. CaTuned has been involved with all of the clutch and brake lines and the will be involved with coilovers over the winter. The interior features a European dash, "silver dollar" gauges, Momo Futura wheel, AMCO wood knob, custom built console, saddle brown door panels, Recaro seats and hand painted visors. The body has a patina'd trunk, all red euro tails, headlight grills, bumper guards removed, Enkei Apache V's with slightly cut springs. Right after these pictures were shot, I started bodywork to prepare for a full respray, and in addition to the coilovers, I'm planning on shaving the Bimmer and repainting the engine bay. Originally I had an E21, and my dad was also looking for one but happened to stumble on this 2002. At the time, the owner didn't have a title for the car but my dad asked for a call if he found or got it. After about three months, from out of the blue, the owner called and my dad picked it up before it went back on sale. Once it was home, he had it for a few months, after which I bought another 2002, which was much rougher. My father told me that he'd sell me this one if I got rid of the "money pit" and then the rest was history. I enjoy the simplicity of older cars but really love how a BMW 2002 drives. They are nimble but still give you that old school feel. I find myself taking the long way home or finding any excuse to just get out for a spin. This car is most fun on blacktop highways, and in rural Missouri we have plenty of them. Around fifty-five mph is very comfortable in the car and hitting the turns in the country side just brings a smile to my face. With all the influences throughout my life, car-wise, I've tried very hard to avoid from what everyone else does (BBS wheels and Turbo aero kits). The Enkeis come from my JDM experiences and I stayed with a smaller wheel because it was more period-correct. From my domestic influences, I have pulled custom hand painted visors, the AMCO knob which was big with '60s GTO guys, and Moon gauges in the console. And even though everyone seems to swap them, I'm dead set on keeping the m10 as long as I own the car. Most recently, I just made a thirty-hour round-trip drive from Missouri to Helen, GA. I drove seventy-five mph the whole way and had no break downs. This little BMW is no trailer-queen and even though old cars require some upkeep they are more than able to make the same road trip any newer car can make. I'm a firm believer that cars are meant to be driven, not just sit in a garage as a conversation piece or something that only goes to shows to collect trophies. And this gets driven whether it's sunny or raining. View full article

A 195 on a 6" rim will have a softer ride but on turn-in the sidewall will also flex more thus reducing response and steering feedback. The same tyre on a 7" wheel will have a more harsh ride but much sharper responses and feedback. Both will have the same straight line braking and acceleration performance. So for comfort, go 6", if you like your car to handle better, go 7". Regards Jacques

And here I thought colorado was just a color...

They look great, but the textured surface on the inside of the lens is there to distribute the light from all angles, and I don't think that just a flat lens will be enough.

A picture of the seats that came with the car. They are in a remarkable condition considering the condition of the rest of the car. I cleaned up the one on the right last night.

Client: "Please send this package to the following location for me." Clerk: "Hey Bob, we have another friendless guy sending himself gifts... and its not even Christmas!"

Ok, here are some pictures. I will have to fab a lot of sheet metal to fix the rust, but the previous owner said he can help with that. Just loaded up.. On our way back home In the garage awaiting attention, and boy does it need it!

Just a small update, my dad bought the car but it is a sorry state. Rust and holes everywhere but everything seems to be accounted for. The car is a 73 model (vin: 3460938) but it has model 71 trim (alu grills, etc). I also went and measured the differences just for interest sake. All measurement were taken at the B-pillar for repeat-ability. Also the measurements were done with a measuring tape (in mm) and a spirit level, but assume about 5 mm of error. The vent window seems to be exactly the same if you complete the triangle from the top edge to the bottom. The windows are the same height. The big changes are to the windshield and roof profile. Regards Jacques

The compression ratio should be 9.5/1. Anything more accurate than that would require you to measure YOUR pistons and YOUR head. But I am sure someone here can measure theirs if you just want an estimate. Regards Jacques

Steve works like a machine to keep this site running, but I wouldn't call him a bot. TobyB on the other hand...

The same way you 'un-tell' your wife that you don't like your mother-in-law... You can't

My '71 RHD 2002 has 3 point arm rests both sides, and my '70 LHD 2002ti has a 2 point arm rest on the driver side.

Welcome to the brotherhood of classic car owners! It really does seem to be a great example that you have lined up! Oh boy. The problem with us 'car guys' is that we think we are right, even when we know we are wrong... (does that even make sense?) Just tell him that you did a stupid, impulsive thing and bought a 2002. Let your experience prove him wrong. That way he will still think he was right. ps. I hope he doesn't read this

I will be brutally honest. Those welds look quite amateur-ish, and at $1800 they don't do anything better than the 2002Haus unit (at $1250 iirc). In fact, the cheaper one looks like its built better.

I don't think 5 point harnesses were available back then.

Yeah right, everyone will think its a "You are our 1 000 000th visitor" scam

Either that, or he is Russian...

Thanks for all the help so far guys! Just a few questions, why is the windshield different? Has the roof profile changed in any way? Also, how stiff is the body? I know many early hatch backs suffered from flex and the hatch would rattle and creak on an uneven surface. Does that hold true for the touring? How do they handle and drive compared to sedans? That red 2000tii is very pretty, the shape is definitely growing on me!

I frequent many car forums, and can say without doubt or hesitation that this site is the most useful and with the most helpful members I have ever seen. Thanks to all who make up this great site! And special thanks to Steve, CD, Toby, AceAndrew, Eurotrash, Mike, Oldguy, Tommy, Marshall , Fred, Joel, Vince, Preyupy, Ray, BillWilliams, Blunt and Rocan. I have learnt more from you guys than I can mention.

This is how you set rear castor... But it looks like fun in a parking lot!

Not sure what you wanted to see. Those camber figures will not affect braking stability. The front caster is a little low, but those rear toe settings are a little more worrisome. But since there's no adjustment at the back, all you can do is replace the bushes and test again.