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Cyclone101

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Everything posted by Cyclone101

  1. Flat top pistons work with all heads, unless you have a very aggressive aftermarket cam. A '76 would also most likely have an e21 or e12 head, not the early 121 head. You can use flat top pistons for a compression ratio of about 8:1, or piano top pistons (these have to be bought for a specific head) to bump the compression and power a bit. Regards Jacques
  2. No one does an 8" drop for performance. That's all stance. And their lack of technical info other than the amount of drop (damping, spring rates, camber change. Etc.) seems in keeping with the stance crowd. Also note, that there is no castor adjustment on the camber plates.
  3. I was actually crying with laughter as I read this! Babenado.... Brilliant review btw!
  4. I like it, we are getting to the type of things I love! But, without actually having done the math, I think the tii intake is 1) Much too short to have useful resonance at stock engine speeds. 2) Those intake runners will cause reflections of the pressure waves that would make it extremely difficult to predict, but not impossible I guess. Also, the resonance equations take wet and dry intake air into account, and although the fuel slows down the intake charge pulse considerably, one can still design the intake around that. I would guess that the tii gets most of its power increase from having higher compression, better intake design ( not necessarily with resonance) and a better exhaust. I think if one substituted the PHH carbs on a ti for a better design, then you would have about the same power as the tii since almost all other things are the same. One day if I get the time I will model the m10 on Dynomation and see if I cant play around with intake designs. Should be quite interesting. Regards Jacques
  5. Well, if you don't want to rebuild, then add some carbs/cams/exhaust and be done with it. There should be some improvement, but there are no guarantees in this business. Also using old rockers on a new cam can damage the cam lobe, best to resurface the rocker pad or get new ones.
  6. A CR of 9.5 to 10.5 should work well for the 1.8 with a 292. Regrinds would require oversized eccentrics. Also, replacing the rockers and shafts would be recommend with a new cam.
  7. I laughed so hard, sure, i understand that this is pollution, but "21,000 premature deaths per year" due to diesel pollution... What a joke. I would love to see their scientific proof of that. The amount of ludicrous stats that are quoted in internet articles are getting out of hand. (Just go read the link they posted) I am all for clean energy, but the media is feeding the masses with so-called statistics that I still can't find the source of. And the worst part is that people these days believe anything that sounds scientific, without any investigation. /rant My friend has a diesel pick-up that is pushed past smoke point, and I have to admit, it gets old fast.
  8. It started out as a 1500 in a little town in Germany called Rotehnburg, and like all small town engines, it dreamed of fuel injection, or maybe if it got really lucky the stardom of the S14s. It worked hard, and grew stronger year after year and decided to move to the big city. It was already pushing 1990cc by that time, and never knew that the big city would welcome m10s with such open arms. The magical words AlpinA and Schnitzer started to ring in his head, along with revolutionary DOHCs... Read more in my book, "The story of a small town M10"
  9. Yeah, the suspension is great, but the fabrication is going to be a challenge. I'm guessing you are taking about Robert from Dynotech.se, the same guy that does the roller rockers. Last time I heard he was pushing close to 900bhp.
  10. I have no personal experience, but when I researched a turbo build I located a guy with a turbo m10 in a 318i running stock compression and a stock head gasket with 0.8bar boost pressure (about 11psi) for more than a year without any problems. He admitted he torqued the head a bit tighter than normal specs. If you are careful with your timing and mapping and keep the pressure conservative it seems to hold up fine. Again, no personal experience, just what I have heard. Regards Jacques
  11. Yes, Its much easier to install the mounting bars first, then attach the bumper to it. As for alignment, I would not trust others giving you measurements as you don't know if their mounting bars are exactly the same as yours, and they do affect where the holes should be.
  12. I will admit, I feel a bit stupid. I was much too quick to blame the gasket again. As it turns out, I just drained and replaced the oil again, replaced the oil filter again to see how quickly it gets contaminated, hoping it could give me an idea of where the water is coming from. Now, 100km later and the oil is still perfect, no water at all. The water level dropped a bit but I found one of the hose clamps were loose and leaking a bit, and a screwdriver fixed that quickly. So it seems there was still water in the pump or hiding somewhere else, but its not from the gasket. Now I just need to replace the resonator as it blew a hole. Still, I am happy. Regards Jacques
  13. Most* billet/forged machined pistons are more malleable than their cast counterparts, and thus hold up to detonation a bit better, but there are so many other variables that I guess you cant take it for granted for ALL billet pistons vs cast pistons. Most detonation failures I have seen were cracked ring lands on cast pistons, mostly on turbo engines though. Regards Jacques *it depends mostly on the Si contents
  14. Hey StayFrosty, I sent you a relatively urgent PM, someone needs an 02 in Cape Town for a video shoot. Drop me a msg if you want in. Regards Jacques
  15. I have to say, to be able to keep a 996 GT3 behind you is no mean feat! Your car must be set up very well, and I guess the S14 doesn't hamper it. One of the nicest race 2002s I have ever seen, congrats! Regards Jacques
  16. First you need to figure out what kind of head you have in your engine, the '72 tii came with 121 heads, but you need to know for certain what you have before you buy pistons. The ID is cast into it at the right hand intake side. The '72 tii (in europe at least) had a compression ratio of 10:1, that is about as far as you want to go for a street car, any higher than that and you will have problems with detonation. Now, as for old/heavy piston designs... The cast pistons BMW used are pretty light and you wont see much of an improvement in engine response by going forged, but the forged pistons do take detonation better than cast ones, although, stock cast pistons can take quite a beating as well. Unless your pistons are fried, I ould not bother changing them out, but if you do need new ones here are some sources for custom pistons: Cheapest: IE know these engiones well, and has great service http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/E21-engine/m10forged-custom.html JE: Supposed to be quite good, i heard. http://www.racetep.com/jebmw.html CP: The most expensive, but probably the best forged M10 piston out there. http://store.vacmotorsports.com/cp-forged-piston-set-bmw-m10-engine-p962.aspx Good luck finding stock mahle/KS 10:1 tii pistons. Regards Jacques
  17. I just went through your shopping list again, and I am once again stumped. Those parts are worth killing for... Do you have pictures of that Quaife diff? I have never seen one in a 2002 case. Have you tracked the car with the diff, if so, how does it hold up and respond versus a plate style diff? Also, did you mold the flares off another car of did you create it yourself? They look nothing short of amazing. I am truly jealous of your build! Regards Jacques
  18. She's Alive!! First drive in months!

  19. Been there, done that. Although I prefer WeizenGold and old school blues.
  20. Where exactly is it leaking? Do you have a picture? It could be that the exhaust side rocker shaft plug is loose and pumping oil into the dizzy cover. I assume you cleaned the mating surface properly when replacing the gasket, although, without removing the head it would be difficult.
  21. I can't vouch for the quality, but if you can plumb, this 'kit' seems pretty complete. http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=290993632115 You would still need a 318i intake, and something like MS to get the injection up and running.
  22. I would start by grounding you plug wires to see if you have spark, and checking the level of fuel in the carb. If you have spark, it might be too weak under compression, but the absence should indicate a dizzy problem.
  23. Sorry, that was a typo, supposed to be 165/80-13 (stock size) . I went to double check the hight, and it seems my fender is bent down a bit, so the measurement should be 18cm. Pic for reference: Not the best, but should give an idea.
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