Cyclone101

Alpina had the A1, that used a stock bottom end with Weber dcoe 40s that made 115bhp. There are some gains to be made, but 130bhp sounds optimistic without adding compression. Dynamic compression ratio means more than static, and adding an aggressive cam can lower it, thus hurting your performance. I would say, if you don't want to touch the bottom end, then carbs (yes 38s are fine) and a less restrictive exhaust is your best bet. Cams might help up top, but will most likely hurt you low end. For best results, 9.5 or 10/1 will be the best for a street car. It does make a big difference when used in combination with other mods.

Here is a picture of the differences, apparently the linkage binds. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=78257 Here is a link to LarsAlpina's post. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/index.php?/topic/151308-Best-Dual-Sidedraft-Carb-Setup?#entry973079 Btw, what are you going to do with the solex carbs? I need PHH carbs for my ti restoration. Regards Jacques

iirrc, the bracket that bolts to the carbs, is too low for the webers. LarsAlpina makes remanufactured brackets for weber carbs, I think thats all you need.

I just noticed, after I torqued the head, that the rocker shaft plug is missing on the exhaust side front. Now I need the shop to turn a new one, as BMW can only get them in 21days. Hate it when things like this happen, I just want to drive the car. Meh

Thanks Toby, that is what I needed.

Yes, i did. But nothing was M10 specific and I know that stretch-bolts have different torque specs, and didn't know what else could affect this, so I thought I would ask the M10 experts. Regards Jacques

Hey guys, I just got my head back from the machinist, and it looks great. I also acquired a an elring HG set but it came without any instructions. I searched but cant seem to find any elring-specific information. How would you recommend I torque the head, and does it differ from other manufacturers instructions? Regards Jacques

Mmm, you just gave me an idea...

Hey chinos, welcome to the forum! If you have something for sale, I would recommend that you put it up in the classifieds section, I am sure more people will see it there. Regards

It is made by Leo Models (www.leomodels.it). They have it on an online shop here http://www.giallogiallo.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61&product_id=73 I bought it at a local model shop.

I just bought this beauty. It helps me stay motivated with my 2002ti project.

Pictures or it didn't happen

Other problems include user error, and the ghost in the machine. Be a little more specific

I know the people on this board is very knowledgeable, but I think that you over estimate us. Next time, give more background information. You mentioned problems but didn't indicate what they were. And like eurotrash mentioned (albeit sarcastically), who is Nancy? I hope you found your answer anyway. Regards Jacques

I just read "needed jack" and thought a HF aluminium racing jack should work well...

The usual suspects would be able to supply freeze/welsh plugs. www.bluntech.com http://www.wallothnesch.com But if I were you I would go to a local parts store, remember the plugs would be the same as those found on the M10 in a E30 318i. Edit: I don't know if it is true, but my grandfather told me that those plugs are cooled (put in a freezer) before you insert them into the block. Maybe that is where the term freeze plugs came from?

Btw, I found that machine work is really cheap here! A reputable shop near me charged me about $120 to pressure test, clean, lap valves, insert valve guides and skim the head, if I supply the parts. I am really impressed!

On closer inspection, it seems that cyl 3 has a little ridge, by little I mean like 0.1mm, but I decided that I am going to rebuild the head and leave the bottom end till it fails. I also think cyl 2 and 3 look steam cleaned, but I can't find any missing pieces from the head gasket that could have caused the damage. Here are the close up pictures of the pistons, I am trying to post with the new tapatalk, so I don't know if the picture quality will remain. If not I will repost. #1 #2 #3 #4

I would definitely shop around first, it seems excessive to me just for replacing a head gasket. Would expect new valves, guides, stem seals etc. at that price. Also make sure it is pressure tested to make sure there are no cracks hiding somewhere. Regards Jacques

BTW, how do you recommend I clean up the head? One guy said I should find a place who uses walnut blasting, but that sounds aggressive. Any ideas?

So, the past few months my 2002 started to use water. I was busy repairing my daily from damage caused my colourblind motorists (red means stop right?) , so I had to use my '71 even though I would have preferred not to. Anyway, I did a comp test and cylinder 3 was reading very low so I knew the HG was on its last breath. Long story shorter (yup, just a bit...), I had some time tonight and decided to open up the engine and inspect the damage. I started by removing the radiator, coolant neck thing and intake manifold. Then turned the engine to TDC, removed the dizzy and thought I would remove the exhaust manifold. And boy, was I wrong! Remember, this is a RHD car and space around the manifold is, well, non existent. Removing the original heat shield was a major pain, and no socket or ring spanner(wrench I guess for our American readers) can access the bolts, but after about an hour I removed 7 of the 8 bolts, but the bottom bolt on cyl. 4 would not budge. So after much swearing and bleeding knuckles I decided I would rather remove the headers with the head. I should have done that from the beginning, but hey, everything looks easier with 20/20 hindsight Well, 3 hours later, and the head has been removed. Maybe some gurus can share some more insight into the condition of the head and engine. Cyl 1 Cyl 2 Cyl 3, there's some damage on the piston an the head on this one, but couldn't find what caused it. Cyl 4 I want to clean it up, not sure how though, and replace the stem seals while I am at it. The bores don't have ridges, and the pistons look decent from my limited experience with open engines. Anything I am missing? Regards Jacques

There is no such thing. <br /><br />It is most likely a 2002 with a S14 (e30 m3 engine) swap. It is poplular and if done correctly an amazing car to drive. <br /><br />The other less likely possibility is that it could be a 2002 turbo.<br /><br />A vin number and a few photos would help a lot. <br /><br />Regards <br />Jacques

I can't seem to find the old container, but it was definitely a non-hypoid oil, just can't remember the weight. <br /><br />I changed the fluid about 3years ago.