robsanab

sorry no further suggestions right now... but it sounds like you don't have an ohm/volt meter. If not I would recommend getting one... I held off getting one for a long time and finally purchased a super cheapy one... has worked terrifically for several years now and saves lots of time. good luck Rob

search around for the many opinions on exhaust... but I've got the Ireland setup which uses magnaflow center res and muffler (although mine is old and not the SS they have now... I think they are still the same size and brand as before). If you have headers and then 2" (which is all you need, even with your cam and carb combo), that should get you what you're looking for... I have Tii manifold and 2" and it's just a tad louder at idle than original and nice tone when getting on it. now I have lots of sound deadener and inside it's very quiet, but a nice sound still at higher revs.

Not sure if that's the case... I've read differently... here's what a couple sites say: “using colored LEDs to illuminate similarly colored lenses produces better visibility and overall appearance.” “For best results the LED color should be the same as the lens color. As an example: a red lens will filter out all but the red portion of the light so if the light is all red, none or very little light will be blocked by the lens. The light from a White LED contains very little light in the red portion of the visible spectrum so most of the light would be filtered out by a red lens.” http://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb-notes.htm not sure why your's seem to work so well... maybe even better with similarly colored LEDs??

an idea... there are other companies that make similar LED taillights for cars, mostly American muscle cars. I just bought some for my Mustang. The key is filling the entire area with lights. You have done a great job with that! If they are anything like my mustang's, they will be bright (some people may say too bright... I can see them being a little irritating if you are behind them for a long time, like in traffic). anyway, let me get to this idea... IF you don't want to mass produce them... MAYBE you can sell the prototype to them and they can mass produce them for hopefully a reasonable price. I got my Stang LED's for 90 bucks and they integrate the circuit so that you don't need an electronic flasher unit to get them to flash properly. This is one company: http://www.northwestmustang.com/ just a thought... because I'd be interested in them just the way you did them... I'm not confident that just putting in one of the new LED replacement bulbs would be any brighter/safer/better (as previously discussed here and on the Daniel Stern website). good job! Rob

a shop here that remanufactures starters, alternators and such (they are a Bosch distributor) also sells batteries. I trust them a lot because even though they sell to the public they are more of a distributor and reman facility. They are always helpful and straight-shooter's. Anyway, he had several battery brands including Optima... he recommended Deka to me (and so far so good). He said at the time (this was a year or two ago) that Optimas were just sold to someone else and that they used to be really good but they've had quality issues lately.

great... thanks for the review. I've been considering the hertz... your enthusiasm may have convinced me. i think i'm going to go with a custom kick panel though... but i do like those tweeters up high like you have them.

upon reinstalling the quarter window, there are a few tiny variables that can change, thereby requiring some adjustment. I even had nice new seals installed and still for some reason had to adjusted mine tighter. Adjust by the two screws that hold the window opening to the c-pillar... they move back and forth. On one side I actually had to put in a thin washer under just the front screw to place the opener at more of an angle... seals fine now. Note that I don't think they ever sealed so tightly as to prevent a high pressure stream of water from trickling in. hope that helps... maybe others have some different tips?

It's supposed to go... or shall I say originally was attached... to the sun roof panel. Especially with the sunroof out you can see where it goes. After painting, my body shop attempted a couple times to attach it to the car roof... It kept coming off. They used the 3M quick drying weatherstrip glue (sorry I don't have the number) which I'm not impressed with because I've had to go back and re-affix quite a few seals. Others have successfully put it on the car roof but i don't see how it's better because the gluing surface is just the narrow edge of the roof... whereas on the sunroof panel you have an entire flat lip to attach it to. Anyway, I ended up using a super glue... can't remember what brand... and actually attached it to the sunroof panel while it was ON. Not recommended... it was too messy... I'd take the effort to take the sunroof out next time. But there won't be a next time soon... it's holding up well.

I went with Aardvarks... I also used a good wood protector... but what i also did was to glue 1/8" closed cell foam to the back. It is sold by auto sound dampening companies... can't remember who i got it from... to dampen high frequencies and it won't soak in water. Haven't installed yet but I'm hoping it will contribute to a solid and silent door, along with all the other stuff i did.

would you consider adopting me??

another tip that i heard here (but I can't vouch for since I have yet to install mine) is to take the upper metal clips and file or bend back the little spikes... according to this person, the clips clamping force is plenty and the little spikes just make it all the more difficult to get on, but especially take OFF. can anyone confirm?

I might be interested in some heater too if it's of good quality with some sort of thermostat... I don't know. The last newish car I traveled in I was sitting there for awhile, and then I had this feeling like I just peed in my pants, felt quite uncomfortable, then kind of over heated and queasy. I opened the window and that's when they told me the seat heaters were on.... and it was a cold day... but I really didn't like the feel after awhile.

all the RB's I've seen for sale list a center bore of 57.1 mm... that's what CJ listed as well.

well said colin... I can concur... I just did my car with fatmat (mostly fatmat and some damplifier i think). If you rap on the panel before you start and then add a layer and rap, another and rap... you can hear the difference. Now there were some areas that didn't resonate much to begin with... but in the wide open areas in the middle of the panel even 3 layers made a difference. The way i ended up laying it out was that I sort of started each piece in the middle of a panel or highly resonate spot... so I have even 4 layers in some areas... once you're in there doing it, it's no big deal to add one more. I have no actual comparison between one versus two versus three layers... also I did a pretty complete resto with new seals, fixed holes in the floor, 5 speed etc. But I am very happy... dramatically quieter.

this one can go round and round... on one hand this article is very convincing from the technical point of view and the published evidence... and it does address using E-code lenses. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html on the other I've heard plenty on this forum and others with real experience saying they don't have an issue and that they're great... and Steve's opinion is usually one of careful consideration, so I trust that. one thing the article mentions that no one else has stated is about the brightness variation... it says that the HID may make the fore ground much brighter than further out... disproportionally... giving the impression that the light is brighter... but basically it kinda screws with your depth of field is what it's saying.... again, interesting technical info. But does it apply to every kit and lens available? maybe it applies to these molded lenses in newer cars and not a 7" hella e-code lens? so I can't make up my mind... seems lately I've been blinded by a lot of driver's with either HID kits or the higher wattage 100w/80 Halogens... I'd hate to contribute to that, but I do want superior lighting since I drive the 02 on rainy nights as well.

good idea... I'd like to know who's done something as far as a mechanical sheild or something too. I was just about to spray the area up behind the turn indicator with some of Eastwood's Heavy duty anti-rust (a 'waxy', self healing substance I've used with success at the bottom of my doors). I was going to try and thin it per their directions and then put it in a standard spray bottle to get into all the crevasses.

I too have had good experiences from Bavarian Auto. As far as prices, I researched like crazy with my recent restoration and they either had the best price or they price matched if I found a better advertised deal. I ended up using several vendors for various things but they probably ended up supplying the bulk of my needs (even items not listed in their catalog or website). Between running into some of their good sales and free shipping I saved hundreds of dollars... really, i added it up at one point but forgot the exact figure. Had several orders from them and the shipping was prompt and if I had a question/inquiry the guy (can't remember his name) I was dealing with promptly called me back. ALSO, I received one wrong item which really was not entirely their fault (they had the opportunity to balk) and they took it back quick and easy no problemo.

coolest thing i ever found was a 1966 dime down in the rear quarter panel (opening below the convertible top attachment) of my 66 mustang

I'm trying to find the picture of a bronze 75 with black trim... and the link i have to his website no longer works. maybe someone else has this info? what i did was to powder coat the trim around the car, the rain gutter trim, the quarter window and front window lower trim.... oh and my big bumpers. They are a low gloss silver (70% i think?)... i was hoping it would match my silver wheels but it turned out a little gray-er than I would have liked. I still think it was a good decision... it was about a quarter of the price of replacing the trim with new... and that still didn't address my horrible bumpers. You do have to realize though (especially with black) ALL the other trim pieces that are chrome... if you don't paint those they may stand out too much and clash. Although my silver doesn't clash horribly, it is pretty noticeable... but that's to me... others may not. My 'original' oriented BMW mechanic doesn't care for it... but I have gotten lot's of positive comments from the laymen on the street. My trim was very dull and nicked and gouged, but not too many dents. I carefully flattened out some of the dents and the powder coating nicely covered the blemishes... I like it. I would not recommend too glossy though... it will highlight every little flaw and may 'pop' too much... in my opinion.

interesting... are we certain that all these seals we're talking about are EPDM rubber?? if so, look what I found at 3M.com. Their technical data sheets can be found there... similar to the one DON posted for the 3M Scotch-Weld #4799... for "3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive" numbers #8001, 8002 and 8008 (different tube sizes and colors) it states... "However, if the weatherstripping is EPDM rubber then product number 8011 (3M Weatherstrip Adhesive Black) should be used." Sure enough in the #8011 data sheet they say "It is the 3M recommended product for bonding EPDM weatherstripping." check it out for all their products... there are quite specific instructions for the "Super" compared to some of the other adhesives... Directions for Use: "Thoroughly clean surfaces to be bonded. Wiping with 3M™ General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (P.N. 08984) will aid in removing oil and dirt. Apply a thin uniform coat of adhesive on each surface but do not close the bond. Allow adhesive to dry until tacky but will not transfer to your knuckle when touched (maximum dry time about 4 minutes). Assemble materials with sufficient pressure to ensure contact. Greater initial strength may be obtained by reactivation. To reactivate, coat both surfaces with adhesive and allow to dry tack free. Lightly coat surface with at thin coat of adhesive or lightly wipe with 3M™ General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (P.N. 08984*). Finish making the bond within 30 seconds. At 70 degrees F, Super Weatherstrip Adhesive will have some bond strength within 1-2 hours and have full cure within 24 hours." They lost me on the 'reactivation' part. what ARE they saying to do?? Also their data sheets are frustrating because they don't display the performance properties similarly... but from what i can tell the "super" #8001. 8002 and 8008 holds better and at a higher temp than the #8011. That is if it works in your application. I'm having the same issue as the others with my non-stick issues... and mine was installed by professionals that I assume applied it properly since that is what they always do. It our german rubber different from others??

don't mean to hijack, but just for clarification about a previous comment... regarding the new SR71X... it is indeed smaller and a bit more powerful, 1.0kw I believe I found... the big original starter (can't remember number) was more like .85kw. First, note that you aren't guaranteed to get the smaller one... I tried BVauto twice, I even sent them a picture and they supposedly went out and looked at it... AZautohaus finally had one for me. As for the S14 starter, SR440X, it is the smaller AND more costly AND higher powered one at 1.4Kw. As mentioned, ordering this one guarantees you will get the smaller/lighter/more powerful one. So, I hope Ireland's works out... seems much cheaper than the SR440X, especially since not everyone will allow the old boat anchors as a core.

I know you're specifically asking about these two tires... not to complicate matters but i was just looking into tires too.... I'm assuming you were looking at tirerack... did you notice that both the General Exclaim and the Yoko s.drive come in with higher ratings? Not sure how those ratings are established... i take a lot of 'users' with a grain of salt since there are so many factors that create opinion... but these two tires are cheaper than the BFG's as well. anyone try any of these?

before my repaint i temporarily installed some pads made out of that foil covered air bubble insulation stuff... just that did quite a bit to quiet down noise.... I was surprised. That being said I'm debating the same thing whether to install insulation pads over the pretty Inka... I probably will after the 'shine wears off'.

well it's been slow getting all the interior together... so I still don't have the door panels and rear seats, etc installed... but the little bit of driving I've done with just one seat and carpet in it I could tell it will be an improvement... I'll have to report more later. It's a lot of work with sore hands and back but already I think was worth it.