robsanab

sorry, I can't answer your question about the recess... I'm away from my car for another week or so... BUT I do have OEM seals and spent a LOT of time adjusting the doors/windows... even after the more experienced body shop guys spent considerable time on them. My wing still does the same as yours... and I too adjusted the window up a tad to get it to seal. I'm going to mess with it more at some point... I'm wondering if the doors themselves can be adjusted differently, because I really feel I've done all I can with the window frame adjustment. The good news for me is that even though I'm not totally happy with it, they do seal enough so that I don't get wind noise... water is sealed out too unless it's fairly high pressure. BUT it's right on the edge, sometime I have to close the door and then roll my window down slightly and then back up to get the very top to make a seal. I still have to close the doors more firmly than I'd like (I think I'm going to have to replace my mirror's insert nuts because I think they are coming loose from all the firm door closings). Also, my passenger side is a bit better than the drivers. I wish someone had the trick to adjusting these things... I really think there must be a process out there somewhere to do it correctly. P.S. thank you for posting that picture of how it's supposed to look like... now I know something is still not quite right and what to shoot for... good luck and keep us posted of any revelations (I'll do the same)

I did the AL41X upgrade years ago per the FAQ... I believe it was a direct fit. Didn't change a thing. As long as yours is a non-tii, should be the same I would think.

I wonder... it says on the GTS website that colors are "available upon request"... maybe they aren't more money... give them a call. See the "our seats in action" sidebar... shows all kinds of colors

what about these... http://www.classiccarseats.com/monte-carlo-seats.php I've been wanting for someone else to try these and report back ;-) I've been considering these for my 66 mustang since the the monte carlo with perforated leather or leatherette is a similar look to original and will more or else match the rear seat. They are a bit shorter in appearance too... more like the original 02 seat. I would think they might look cool in a bimmer. More pricey than the corbeau... better quality? don't know. I had my eyes on the Corbeaus a few years ago but went with the Recaro SE (not sure if they're still available... but they are the cheaper of the recaros), only I hate the fabric... picks up everything and gets interwoven within the fibers... makes it difficult to clean... they always look dirty. Comfy though. Talked with the BF Torino guy ages ago and he was helpful... said he's sold them to both mustang and 2002 drivers... hey, and there's an 02 in the picture as well.

thanks, nice informative article, I enjoyed it... I concede on most of his judgments (since I haven't driven one), however... and I'm trying to be unbiased about this... I don't see how it wins on looks. Maybe I'd have to take a close up look at one in real life. I looked through a batch of pictures of the Triumph, and I am a lover of the TR's, but there is some awkwardness in it that isn't present in the 2002. I do like it, it reminds me of an elegant Datsun 510... but even then, I like the 510 better due to it's simplicity. The interior, I don't see it either... 02 has better lines... it just flows better... even looks more comfortable. Hell, what's that bar going across the Dolomite at the knees... looks painful to me... even my girlfriend could wack her shin on it as she crosses her pretty legs, which she can do in my '02.

yep, definitely great lines. and the wheels look sweet! now that you've had your Falkens for a while (i believe that's what you said you were getting), how do you like them? which model are they? and are you glad you went with the 205's rather than 195? or are they a little 'heavy' feeling?

another idea... as I said I've been researching resonance issues for my mustang. You can try whatever muffler you want and if the resonance or sound is too loud you can next try a Car Chemistry insert... there is some restriction but they essentially create two paths for the exhaust to flow thereby eliminating some resonance.... read on if interested... See them here: http://www.carchemistry.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=11 here is a forum where a couple folks liked them: http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=739889 and here is just a very interesting article on exhaust systems by our Briton car buds: http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Muffler-Selection.htm

let us know your results... I think that 12644 is the one I have on my car... but as I said, with the resonator upstream of it as well. Dynomax has some of the same stuff I believe but in aluminized steel instead of stainless... might save you some money since it's an experiment. If you could possibly fit a larger (not likely) or longer case under there (I'm not with my car so I can't tell right now), I would think that would be the best bet. Oh and i also noticed magnaflow also has their XL series if you want to try that... I think a different method of baffling... don't know much about the differences. good luck... let us know what happens.

i imagine quite loud. Yes the larger the muffler the lower tone and quieter it will be. I have that the old IE set up which is the round 4" x 18" magnaflow where the original resonator was and a 6" x 18"(i think?) muffler. To me perfect... about the same at idle as the stock system but low and louder when rev'ed. but there is more to an exhaust system than a muffler to dampen the sound... some systems require a resonator to prevent too much resonance or drone, which whether loud or relatively quiet can be undesirable. I'm going through that right now with my mustang... there is a resonance at certain RPMs and I'm not sure a quieter mellower muff will do the trick because it's resonance in the system... I may have to use something called a wave pipe or some exhaust baffle insert.

this has been discussed before so check my figures and P/N's by searching one of these P/N's, but... the M3 S14 starter is an SR440X... it is something like 1.4KW power wise and yes, small. new SR71X's are also small (same size/weight as SR440X? don't know, but I suspect negligible). It replaces the old SR?? (aka "boat anchors")... I got one from AZ autohaus as well... they are something like 1.0KW. Which is still an improvement from 0.8kw of the larger heavier original. This one will cost much less than the SR440X.

my thought... which the stereo installer confirmed was possible, is to make a custom enclosure for the rear deck (just like some have done for kick panels)... which might improve bass response, maybe prevent cutting the rear deck metal as much or at all, etc. I was also thinking of mounting some thin fans in there to help clear fog, since my window defrost doesn't work... could be made very stealthy. Just never seen this done in an '02... that's why I'm curious about the '535 option' mentioned.

sislane - i THINK he's asking more about mounting speakers in the rear deck... he did acknowledge that he's seen some posts, likely some of which you linked... like the one showing Bill W's install which he mentioned. Many of the previous speaker posts just deal with kick panel and door mounting. If they exist, I too would like to see other examples on ways to fabricate something on the rear deck as opposed to the typical method of simply drilling for 6x9's (or 5x7) and mounting directly to the rear deck. tbrduc - you mention "the rear of 535's"... I've been keeping up with such posts and haven't seen what you are referring to. What are you talking about? I will probably just have my car audio shop fab something, but it would be nice to have a go by. Thanks

do the thump test... since everything is out, tap on various areas of every exposed panel... as you'll find out the panels that are formed or near bends (such as the tunnel) you get a rather solid thump.... as you go to the middle of a section it will resonate more. Put as much stuff in those areas to make the panel resonance sound different... more solid... until you sense it won't sound much different with yet another layer. I tried to overlap the mat in areas with most resonace, so I have three to four layers in some areas and only 1 or 2 in the others. After taking out original foam mats, I had the body shop fix rust and holes... I put down ZeroRust paint (similar to Eastwood Rust Encapsulator) on firewall, floors, doors, rear panel and rear floor... covered all with Damplfier mat to varying layers (based on the thump method) and then one to two layers of ensolite under the new carpet. Also put ensolite (closed cell foam) behind my new wooden door cards from Aardvark. With all that and new seals as well, I had absolutely dramatic results.

I used Eastwood's Heavy Duty Anti-Rust... evidently similar to Waxoil... was easy to use, stays in place well after it dries... seems to penetrate the seams well... just clean up the weep holes until it dries. It's thin enough to where I even put it in a spray bottle and got it behind that gusset along the bottom of the door. Elsewhere on the open areas of the door I used Eastwood's rust encapsulator paint and then stuck sound deadener mat (although there was no rust other than what was previously in the corners of the door... this was done all after body work and paint)

sorry drop the one (thinking Farenheit) more like 70 75 and 80C

it's stamped on the thermostat body in degreesC... can't remember the three options... 165, 170, 180? something like that.

See… now here’s an argument for killing a kitten or two… I posted a leaky windshield question this month as did someone else… and now this one. For some reason different members appeared in each of them… and they all had good information… sometimes different information. Like this, Dave, I’ve never noticed this flowable silicon stuff… that’s cool for many auto as well as household applications… thanks! I’ll still probably have my new windshield and new seal re-replaced eventually. I get a leak only when in a driving rain on the freeway… so I suspect they either didn’t use the required sealant (as CD pointed out in other posts) or didn’t use enough in the right places. Anyway… just sayin here’s the other posts if interested… http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,334551/highlight,windshield/ http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,334299/highlight,windshield/

I wouldn't be of much support considering I'm in Bellingham and travel half the year... BUT I do come through Seattle to visit the big city and friends every so often ... I would gladly join an event if it works out time wise. Sorry I can't be much more definitive. Let us know what develops... good luck! Rob

it's common for them not to work. I have power to my terminals, so it is a break in the lines somewhere. the conductive paint kits I've seen are for little fixes here and there... haven't checked mine with a meter but I have a feeling i have lots of breaks. I would really like to fix mine too... not for frost so much... but just the fogging that develops inside (i've tried anti-fog and I really don't like it much... smells and only works for a very short period). I do have an idea though! I haven't tried yet... but, when I add a stereo system I'll have speakers put in the rear deck (already been drilled for 6x9's) I was going to have the installation shop build a nice looking slightly elevated, angled tray to hold the speakers and then maybe mount 2 or 3 small fans (like computer fans or the like?) in the tray as well (I've already run some wires when I installed the carpet). I've seen the custom fiberglass enclosures they make for kick panels and such and they do a really nice job. I THINK that could do the trick... I don't think it has to be heated air really... if so, I've seen some fairly small aux heaters with fans that might work. Anyone have any thoughts about that idea?

true this has been discussed, but always with confusion... this particular FAQ condenses some of those discussions but it's still rather confusing with a dose of conjecture... it does have some good info once you get a handle on it.... definitely read it. that being said, I have a 75 with the resistor wire and originally had a black coil with a resistor block as well. When I converted to the Crane XR700 I used the Crane fireball coil without any resistor block and it has worked wonderfully for over 4 years.... so that's another option for you.

2 Inka large 1 atlantik blue large

this was the first major rain I'd driven in since the seal and window was replaced (oem seal and pinkerton windshield). I was driving along on the freeway when I felt water dripping on my left foot. I did have an occasional leak there before the restoration from my horribly dried out windshield seal. It would typically stop once the seal had swelled a bit from being wet. All the seals on the car are now new... the car was repainted with all seals off... so i know the lip around the windshield was rust free and in good shape. The only thing I can think of is maybe the radio antenna mount???? That seal is not new and I'm not so sure how well it's attached (i think the top screw is stripped... i have to look at it closer). But I can't imagine that letting in so much water. After driving 20 minutes it was a rather steady drip coming off of some future speaker wire I have coiled up there... hence making it hard to determine just where it was coming from... it didn't soak into the new carpet but I did soak a few thick paper towels once I noticed it and pulled over to investigate. If any of you experienced leaks from the antenna mount... how did you fix it? Any other nooks and crannies to look in to?? (didn't notice any water coming from the hood cable opening, so that's clear)

yep, that's the one I used too per that previous discussion. I don't care for it... for all the reasons just mentioned but also fitment. As you'll read a couple folks made it work pretty well. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and I tried several positions, spacers etc. It now works without hitting the door or opening too far, but I don't like what I had to do to get it to work. Maybe if you have the ability to cut and weld, then no problem... it's worth the cheap part. Bottom line: I plan to go ahead and spend the money on the supposedly improved ones at some point

and too... you have to think about other people's safety... even if it didn't just fall off due to stress or vibration fatigue... what about in a bad wreck? it might turn into a missile rather than a crumpled mess pushed up into the trunk... I'd rather not decapitate anyone. I had my body shop drain them and they are now shortened with the tubes welded together... of course it doesn't sound like that is an option for you since yours sound badly corroded.

nice boobs... i mean tubes