robsanab

ah yes...thank you both... I THINK that answers the questions... I think i can tackle it. I'll get a heat gun, and some gloves, good glue and be patient. Craig... i have marine blue interior... i found some auto/marine vinyl at just a regular ol' fabric store... called Joann's here in the NW. the blue is a little bluer than the super dark BMW marine blue, but I think it will look good. the fabric had the same look/texture and was at least as thick and good quality... 10 bucks a yard. I think the a-pillar on all cars is black (mine was, because of the black dash... correct me if i'm wrong)... my blue interior had blue trim everywhere else.

thanks... but I've seen that post... the headliner is done (yeah!!). It's what the finished pillars look like, both at the headliner and lower down... for example... how do the a and b-pillars get finished at the headliner AND how to finish the a-pillar at the dash? How does the parcel tray vinyl trim get finished at the c-pillar base... what gets tucked in where?? I can figure some of the details based on the creases in the original pillar trim but can't quite figure it all out... especially those areas that are very visible like at pillar-dash, pillar-headliner and such. am i being too picky??

does anyone have pictures or can you describe how to finish the a, b and c-pillar trim? Also there is a long piece of vinyl shaped like it goes between the rear window and 'package shelf'. How is it trimmed in at the base of the c-pillar. these details are really bugging me. The body shop took off most of this stuff and can't remember exactly how it goes back. I didn't realize until recently getting the headliner done that some things need to be installed BEFORE all the windows and their seals. There is not an engine in the car, so i had to tow the car to the headliner guy who informs me after installing it that he couldn't finish the pillars entirely. now it's back at the body shop and they are willing and seemingly able to finish it but they need some direction as to how it will look. I was hoping that an interior shop could fix it and trim it afters the windows and seals... but the body shops says it looks like most of this stuff tucks into not only the windlacing but the window seals as well??? always so close to finishing, but not quite. can anyone help me somehow??

someone must have gone through this. It's difficult to explain, but here goes... I posted this question a while back and therefore bought what I thought was the correct clip/clamps... here's the original question which may help: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,312147/highlight,/ I get them and they are not the same style clip... they are the same as these shown all the attached pictures. They show, not the outer door trim, but the interior door panel trim and how the felt strip rides in that third U shaped clamp piece. BUT what I need is the OUTER door trim clip. I ordered what everyone, forum and suppliers, were telling me was the correct clip. So, here is what I'm guessing is going on... is this one of those items that BMW discontinued because another similar item works? Here's the next piece of this puzzle... those that have kept up on this saga also may know that i was asking about the u-shaped felt channel for the outer door trim that is unavailable.... here's that question that shows the realOEM picture: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,311747/highlight,/ I don't know if this is the intention but I THINK that the same piece of felt (not u shaped) used for the interior can also be used on the exterior trim too... but since it is straight and not u-shaped it now needs this interior clip to hold it. Can anyone confirm this... it looks like I can make it fit, BUT the felt may protrude too far... too tight against the window??? It's difficult when the car isn't in my garage and I can't easily test fit for various reasons... I just need to get the body guy the correct parts or come up for a way for this to work.

a/c no... sunroof yes what difference does that make?

thanks but no... this is a fresh resto with all new seals... i think i want a new right to match the new left. if not I'll let you know

gottca... so that does look like it, thanks... and so your info Matt seems correct... so I'll come up with something else to use i guess... any ideas?

well, CD if that is it I assume you mean item 6... the only oval plug? AND Matt, if it is item 6 then Max shows them as available for 7.50 each... BUT it also shows a quantity of 4?? there are only two that I know of... therefore I'm not sure if these are them or not. anyone shine some light on this mystery... being halloween and all?

any one have a good alternative and/or what is the part number for that oval plug (2 of them) at the top of the trunk... mine were gray... seemed to have lost both of them. the oval hole is about 1-1/4 x 2-7/16

Ideally I would like to trade my left-driver's side square tail light gasket (lens frame to body, P/N 63 21 1 356 941... see picture) for a new right-passenger side gasket (P/N 63 21 1 356 942). story: I bought both tail light gaskets new years ago... now that I'm installing them i find I have two lefts (driver's side). Can't remember who i bought from or else they'd probably honor it. If I got two lefts, just MAYBE someone got two rights!! Does anyone have an extra gasket (passenger-P/N 63 21 1 356 942) per chance for a trade? [/img]

mike email sent thanks for the suggestions... anyone else have positives-negatives of one method over the other?

case in point... I have dubois write up and Kieth's site, which indicates that it goes on the body.... and then a couple others say it goes on the sliding panel... i vaguely remember that mine was on the sliding panel (can't remember and no telling if that was stock). I just want the one that works the best... does one way lend itself to create a better seal or won't as easily rip off or what??

does the rear sunroof seal get glued to the body OR the sunroof panel? upon searching, i find many posts and construction articles, but I find both methods used. No one addresses why they did it their way. Wondering if either way will work or if one is better than the other. thanks

great... i think I'll just take you up on that... email sending

short story, I need the 4 aluminum joints or 'cups' (P/N 51 31 5 480 122) for the aluminum 'beltline' trim that goes all around the car as soon as possible... it can be dull and used but no dings or bent way out of shape. looking for someone close by (i'm in Bellingham, WA) so that maybe I can get them in the mail by tues or wed (or sooner) of next week. new they cost a whopping 8.75 each... IF you can get some used ones in the mail really quick I'd like to pay say 15 bucks or so for the pieces plus whatever mail method... a small priority mail should be less than 5 bucks. long story.... i actually got all my trim power coated... it looks great BTW... BUT they lost these trim clips... the body shop has been waiting to put the trim on and now I finally get it back from the coaters and they lost these pieces. obviously these joint clips will have to be powder coated as well, so I'll need to get these to them ASAP so that they can get done ASAP. can anyone help?... if I don't hear back from someone soon, since this is friday i may have to buy new and wait for them to process and ships etc etc... if someone else has them used it would be quicker and much cheaper for me. let me know... thanks

I believe Dave at Aardvark racing also has a source... he now has the option of recovering his door panels cards and deals with recovering recaros all the time.

Yep, there is SO much info on here from the past about carpets it's a little overwhelming... it is somewhat helpful however. I ended up getting samples from World Upholstery and Auto Interiors (who sells ACC carpet and has a black and white). I was going with blue carpet so I can't tell you who all has the SnP colors... I did get a sample of the SnP though from auto interiors because I was curious. I ended up liking the WorldUp the best and splurged a little on their blue import loop... a little classier and quality looking... but you really have to see the differences in a sample. I haven't installed my carpet yet but it looks really nice out of the box and others have had good experience with it... my interior/carpet guy praised both these companies and said the AutoInteriors price was better than what he could buy it for.

John, is your M10 pretty stock? I've been interested in converting but I'm a little scared... my mechanic who has even done it himself warned me that it could take days (therefore $$$) to get it to run optimally... i don't want to be endlessly tweaking and tinkering. I read what others write about MS and it overwhelms me... of course most of these guys have elaborate setups with different motors with electronic ignition.... i would just want it for better driveability, cold weather starting and fuel efficiency mainly. Is it possible to 'copy' a map profile from someone else with a similar motor and be very close right off the bat? does what I'm asking make sense?

#40, 50 and 59 ARE my favs... that twin turbo shot is very cool. thanks

hey those with good mileage and weber 32/36's... how do you have them set up? long story short... a couple years ago i bought new carb and set up per CD's prescription... the car has been tuned and then re-tuned by an 02 professional... so it's running as best as it can... the carb is dialed in and adjusted per the weber instructions (and by the pro) and I still get like really BAD mileage... even driving like a granny. I was going to go back to stock jetting OR use carl nelson's recommendations.

FYI... Autohaus Arizona has them for 16.66 each

cool... that helps some i think i like the smaller center hub of the protopito a little better, and the black finish, but this gives me something to compare.... thanks! you know, now that you show that picture against the faux wood instrument cluster (which i have too), a wood wheel would blend in nicely... but I've never had a leather wheel and I think I'd prefer the feel... hmmmm? decisions, decisions.

I have a 75 and i don't see any 'teeth' around the window frame. So are you thinking that the early model seal will work in a late car? But with a late model seal in an early car, since it doesn't take into account these teeth. some of these teeth may show? Then at least it's the same size it sounds like? anyone else know of any identifying differences between these seals?

does anyone have a lecarra steering wheel? pictures? do you like the quality, feel etc? You always hear about momo and nardi... I'm just looking for other, maybe less expensive options. I have one of the nicer Grant signature series on my mustang and it's not bad but the quality and feel is not great. I'm going for the vintage-ish 3 spoke with holes look. The only wheel I'm interested in that is different from this is the momo competition with it's perforated leather. I have settled on leather and would like to go larger than 350mm if possible (I'm told going to a smaller wheel is fairly dramatic as to low speed steering effort, true for you?). I really like the 370mm prototipo that Joel on this board is selling (anyone here have this? how do you like it?), but it's pretty pricey... lecarra has a similar looking one (available in 14" and 15") for half the price, plus their hubs are a little cheaper... but I do want quality and a nice thick grip. thanks, Rob

How do you tell the difference between the pre-73 (51 31 7 440 104) and the 74 up (51 31 1 817 764) windshield seal? I just did an inventory of all my parts so far (about ready to go on the car!) and I noticed BOTH these BMW numbers on the bag of this seal. My body/paint guy will be installing the windshield and I want him to have the right part obviously. thanks, Rob