robsanab

I took the door's outer trim (#3) off. The clips/clamps are shot and just fell apart and away.... I can't tell if I need item #7 or #10 (both called "clamps"). They are fairly large complicated stampings that fit into the trim to clamp to the door. They look more like #10 than #7, but item 10 looks like it's associated with the inner weatherstrip #4 (i don't THINK so)... YET it is correct that there were 4 per door (per RealOEM)... item 7 just shows an X for quantity. Can anyone verify? At 3.50 a piece i want to be sure. Also, per my last inquiry the only suggestion for NLA item #9 was possibly a felt from an old mustang.... i looked at my '66 and it appears not to be U-shaped... but it might work if I glue it in... for that matter any similar felt could work. any other suggestions or if I go the mustang route what to glue it with? OR is this felt even required since I do have a new item 8? thank you [/img]

those look like they might be TSW's... if so, I got some 5 spokes (similar to sear's style 11) from tire rack quite a while ago on a whim because they were cheap (70 bucks) and i needed some tires. I get compliments on them all the time and they've performed well. i think mine were 30 offset as well... i think. And they fit with my larger volvo caliper upgrade. My 195/60/14's fit easily... although now that I'm doing paint along with suspension mods... i may want to fill up the tire well a little more (eyeing the rota RBs). Oh, one thing I don't like about them (and it looks like your wheels have the same issue)... the spokes poke out beyond the lip... don't get too close to curbs. I used to pride myself at knowing exactly where my tires were while driving... i've done since lost my pride.

but if i keep it where it is, does the muffler tuck up in there? can't remember if it sits directly between the well and the tank or if it sits below the corner of the well.

my spare tire well was totally rusted out so I got a used one from a parts car. I told my body/paint guy that I wanted a little extra depth in order to put a wider than stock tire in there. He welded it in before I got a chance to tell him how much depth I desired. Didn't measure it but he said it is an inch or 2 more. Since I don't have my muffler system and gas tank there to test fit, can anyone tell me if I'll have a muffler clearance problem? I have the round Magnaflow setup from Ireland. (of course now that i think about it, between AAA, tire seal and a portable 12V air pump... likely i don't really need to carry a spare... I can make it into a tool/parts chest... anyone else use theirs for something interesting?) You know, looking at this picture I'm also wondering if he's got the well oriented correctly... is that where that tow clip (what is that for anyway?) gets positioned?? Shoot... if it is off can someone send a picture of how it's supposed to look? I'm away from home and will have to send it to him. thanks for your help [/img]

what have yall been using for item 9? realOEM and Max says ENDED. It's a U-shaped felt below the plastic strip with the thinner piece of felt (item 8... which i have... as well as item 4, the inner felt). [/img]

on a 75 there is an aluminum heat shield attached to the firewall which is molded down into the trans tunnel for the exhaust downpipe. my car is at the shop and all apart for body work/paint... was wondering if I should have them take this off to coat the body with something (prime and paint? or undercoating?). A thought: I do have some second skin damplifier that is supposed to be good to 500 degree F. I was going to use some of this on other parts or the firewall (to replace the old foam). Should I just use it as the heat shield too since it has an aluminum facing? anyone else try this or something else? Also with the engine out I can't remember how much room there was between this shield and the downpipe... can anyone tell me? Enough to put more insulation or room if I build up that area with something and replace the shield? thanks

Andrew- I'm sure you can find someone there... BUT, if you want to come down to Bellingham I've just looked into all this (i'm going through a pretty thorough restore). A couple blocks from a great BMW mechanic Ron Ager (see northwesteuropeanautoworks.com) is a Speedy Glass who does windsheilds for him (360.647.1801) When you're ready to bodywork/paint, I have mine into a guy that is highly recommended by a few car enthusiasts i know, including Ron above. And get this, he's like a third of the price of other guys in my area... call Lam of Affordable Auto Body 360.380.9915. so far i really like working with him... I'll have to let you know how she comes out later. that being said... i think some of these ideas by the others are good... you should be able to competently repair it for now good luck... and maybe we'll see you around

cool... you can also get those hockey puck LED lights and stick them where ever you want... some of them are better and brighter than others... some swivel too so you can direct the light

thanks otis... 1 and 2 help some... maybe 1 is all there is to it? 3) you misread... you don't see my smiling face or hear my voice inflection... ok, i was annoyed at the purist's comment, but I wasn't offended or mad... just counterpointing his 2 cents with why I'm motivated to do what i do. 4) you misread my question i think, or my inquiry wasn't very concise (likely)... and i do search much more than i post. I was in no way asking an opinion on what color to paint my car... i was wondernig why one example of an Inka is great and another is poor (sometimes with more orange than red maybe). Hence my mustang story... if i had that car painted i could tell someone who wanted to know maybe what the brand was and the color mix or whatever. I know the obvious, that a better painter who spends more time on the car will recieve better results. I guess what I'm still wondering is if there are different tones of Inka... I just don't know the process a painter goes through to find out what the color 'Inka' is... is one brand's Inka the same as another brands? Is it because the good ones that i'm seeing are two stage instead of single? (which is what I am hearing from you). i was thinking that someone could tell me something like... "oh the secret I found was to get brand x of inka, add a little of this and have them shoot it with a clear coat". But then that's subjective and I'm back to your suggestion 2 to get what I want analyzed... which in this case is impractical. i suppose it was silly to ask such specifics about a color from a picture, but you never know until you ask. oh and i just read your email Jim... that's a good suggestion... i'll look into that color.

Oh... I'm sorry beige lovers... strictly my opinon... just how i view the world... no reflection on you.

not my question. I don't care about selling the car... I'm building this car to be a driver... i will pass it on to my children... i don't like biege(borrrring)... i'm doing a good quality paint job the right way... the PO already painted it something different and altered other things... like my stang it is updated with newer, better, safer equipment where possible, therefore i don't care about originality... and I don't care about someone else's tastes since it's my car... etc.

hey folks... i appreciate the humor... but this is getting way off topic. and this thread is quickly getting buried... are my questions daft or something? i need some paint education. I have a '66 silver/blue mustang (painted by PO)... a 'stock' color but I get rave reviews on it and those in the know say it looks like the stock color but there's something different... it looks a bit different in various light, it 'pops' more than cars with the stock color. I'd like to know why this might be... so I can make the right choice on the '02 Rob

no! that can't be original... that looks great! what is your paint care secret? so original paint is considered a single stage? love that shot with the wiener mobile. My dad used to drive one of those when he was a young man... i remember being facinated by his story when i first saw one as a kid... maybe that is why i dig inka so much?

getting ready to paint soon and I'm wondering something about this particular color. I have seen examples of Inka, such as the one in this picture, that I love... therefore deciding on this color. But I have also seen a couple in real life that just didn't look as good. Can anyone tell if the car in this picture is true Inka or maybe a variation? I obviously don't know a lot about painting but what I have heard is that there are things that could make all the difference, like single stage vs. two stage, or just a shade difference by adding some pearl or something like that. Or maybe those other cars didn't have a clear coat? I just don't know enough about paint to tell. Does anyone have suggestions so I know what to request from my painter? I want a durable easy care paint job.... show car depth and shine is not my main goal. My painter does come recommended by folks in various car clubs around here... so I'm confident in his work.... I just want to make sure that when I tell him "Inka" it will come out as I expect.

…and tops of big bumpers? All my anodized alum trim (is it called ‘beltline’?) and bumpers are in decent shape… no huge dents, just scratched and very dull. I have searched and found all the suggestions, frustrations and conficting opinions on this and have tried some things myself and this is what I'm considering... something completely different... The powder coating guy near me said that he could garnet blast the trim and put on two coats for about $200 bucks… as you may know there are a variety of finishes including an aluminum looking high gloss that might replicate shiny new trim… as you may also know to replace all trim, including the drip rails, with new trim approaches $800 and then you have all that shiny new trim looking out of place with the other cloudy window trim and bumpers…. So, I’m thinking of getting it all powder coated. The coating guy needs to look at it but I imagine that to do the tops of the bumpers and other miscellaneous trim may only be maybe another 200 or 300? (BTW everything is off the car already for painting prep) Plus I’m not into high chrome like shine… I might do everything in a semi-gloss aluminum like the typical silver painted wheel… then everything would match nicely.... wouldn't have to bother with fingerprints, etc. That all being said, I’m just not sure if the drip rail for example would have a tendency to chip since I think that piece needs to get crimped on. Anyone with powder coating experience got thoughts? sorry i got long winded rob

lots of other good ideas and how to's here as well... http://www.my2002tii.com/aug2003/index.htm

There are lots of products... it all depends on where the rust is and how you want it to look afterward. I've used a couple products that have seemed to work so far... definitely slowed the rust anyway. It is true that it never sleeps, but I've seen that it can be slowed in some cases, sometimes stopped with a combination of these products. My intention was the same... I have a driver and I didn't want it to rust out from under me before I had the time and money to get proper paint and body work... find something I could easily treat and wouldn't look as bad as a growing rust spot. I'm familiar with rust, I also have had a few '66 mustangs. Yet I'm not a body man, I don't want to purchase the tools necessary nor spend the time to eliminate the rust entirely. different products are made for various applications... a decent resource is EastwoodCo.com. They have reasonable prices on their products and easy to order online. Check their Tech section for various articles and how-tos. They have a rust converter which is easy to use and then you can go over that with an encapsulator like their Rust Encapsulator (ZeroRust is another encapsulator that we have here in our auto paint stores that I've heard good about). Rust encapsulator seems not to be an finicky as POR15 which needs very specific prep and is just nasty stuff. Eastwood also has a product called Heavy Duty Anti-rust (wurth has something similar) that is a waxy oily coating that seals the surface from contact with air and moisture.... obviously not for use in areas that would be painted... good for bottom inside of doors, rocker panels and such. You can sometimes find equivalents to these at your local autobody paint store. Do some research and you'll find other products and brands... so far these have been easy to use and decent price wise.

something you may want to look into... I think I'm going to try this: as I write this the body shop is taking off my trim, fixing the body and prepping for paint... he is going to buff out the large scratches... I just talked with a local powder coating guy (he's ceramic coated my headers a while back with success), he said he could garnet (sp?) blast the trim and put 2 coats of either a satin or high gloss silver powder coat on them for around $200... doing extra stuff, top of bumpers and other trim won't be that much more. I think I'll try it and maybe even go with a finish that matches a typical silver painted wheel... so a little less glossy than standard. Also all the aluminum finishes will match. I figure it's worth a try... I know I won't be satisfied with dull trim against the new paint and the upper trim and drip rails new cost like $700... and that's not ALL the trim that needs attention. If I go this route I'll report to yall how it turned out.

just move the connection and splice it directly in with the power wire... your switch ought to have a setting where you can turn on the dome light with the doors shut... I'm not around mine so I can't see the configuration of the switch... just find where there is power all the time... it's there.

I'm sorry Ken, i do have an email setup... just wasn't activated... your reply will work. Sorry guys, I'm not the savvy heavy forum user...

hey Ken... i sent you an email... but then realized I evidently don't have a return email account set up... would you mind sending your reply to me at xxxxxx (I didn't want to hijack this tread with a carpet question) thanks, Rob

Bill, I have no idea... is yours out of the car and separated from the rest of the box already? I have a guy here with a parts car... I'd have to pull the box and then probably drill the rivets etc and hopefully it's in better shape than mine... he said he wouldn't want much for it but we haven't talked price... so, I'll have to get back with you. I would prefer first to get some suggestions on repairing... I've read the FAQ but my entire flange is getting pretty bad and not sure if a little JBWeld here and there will work.

looks as if the heater box cover (the part that holds the blower motor) is NLA. 1) is that true? 2) where might i find a used one? (i saw one online somewhere about 6 months ago for a reasonable price but at the time I thought mine was in good shape...can't seem to find where that was) 3) who has had good success repairing them? how? The flange area where I had previously replaced the rivets with screws is pretty broken up around the holes. Flimsy and ready to break in other places. any suggestions?

My driver's side window has some slop in it... it shifts up and down at the window guide (item #18). It looks to me as if the plastic sliding piece (item #17) is the culprit. Only as you can see it is no longer available. What is another way I can tighten this up? Or does anyone have 2 good used sliding pieces I can buy? Any suggestions? 17 SLIDING PIECE 4 51326454347 N/A ENDED [/img]

no sound clips... but from my experience sound clips aren't very accurate since to record such a thing depends on many factors. that being said... I really like mine... had mine installed and when I went to pick it up I as a little shocked at how quiet they were (i previously had the stock muffler with patched rust holes). To me they are perfect... not much louder than stock only deeper tone and when you put your foot into it it makes a wonderful sound... but is not too loud for me and doesn't have any bad resonate spots anywhere in the RPM band.