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robsanab

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  1. robsanab
    So far so good with the Braille B3121… for 6 months now. Also with a host of new current draws, such as stereo and electric fan that will sometimes stay on a few minutes after shutoff… it will float back and hold at 12.8 volts (fyi… AL41x @ 65A)
  2. robsanab
    Powder coating works great… I’m very happy I did mine. I get lots of compliments. They don’t really stand out as different unless there are other 02’s around to compare. To consider: mine were in much worse shape than yours. Also, I have bits of other trim painted the same since I had the car stripped of all trim for paint and new seals in 2008. My bright trim was also bad and dinged… hard to find and very expensive at the time as well… so I had it and roof rail coated too. That MAY be why it doesn’t seem to stand out as much (And now even my engine matches… Just finished my EFI project and coated the intake and valve cover!). All that plus I just hate polishing ‘chrome’ or high gloss finishes on anything… prefer lower gloss for ease of maintenance as well as prefer the look. This picture is a decent representation… shows direct and shadowed lighting, and the contrast between the Rota wheel (royal silver) and the stock pieces not painted… close enough not to clash. I can’t remember the color name/number, gloss level (70-80%?) nor the brand (Cardinal ?) but it’s very aluminum or light grey color. Go see it in real life or get a swatch. I’m sure you can find something closer to original look… a vast array of colors and finishes.
  3. robsanab
    thanks all... the wheels are about 7-8 years old, so not from corrosion when they were painted. I found some very similar looking spider veins on another forum (thanks Tsingtao…. ). I guess corrosion got underneath the clear coat, could have been just water. These other experiences also mentioned that they ‘stored’ them as well. This was the first time I had a shop do it… although i have always put them in bags I remember this time, since it was nasty weather, they were put in wet and didn’t have a chance to dry out... although I made a point of not sealing them up and stacking them for a good few weeks later… still I think moisture got under some imperceptible scratches. One spot included some road rash on the rim, so that seems pretty clear cut… the others areas seem pretty clean and smooth however. Lord knows I don’t wash these things with kid gloves as you’re apparantely supposed to. But I've never had an issue with any other wheel on other cars… I treat them all the same. That’s why I prefer all powdercoating, shiny stuff is too much trouble (from someone who dislikes washing that is). Don’t really mind patina… now I got it on my wheels!
  4. robsanab
    Have any ideas what could have caused this? odd spider pattern... the one large patch is the only one where the clear coat has a rough worn spot... the other spots feel smooth. Backstory... they were in perfect condition when I had a tire shop remove them to put on my winter set. They have been in their bags in the garage... I took them out to have them swap out and found this on two of the four. One interesting note (?) I think they were both on the fronts. I don't know whether to make a fuss and blame the shop or if it could have been due something I did wrong in storage... maybe the bags they provided had some solvent on them or ? thanks for you ideas
  5. robsanab
    Been using Valeo 600's (15") for quite a few years... seem to last a long time, I use them often (although car is garaged so not constantly in the elements). nice matte black finish, robust... made in Germany I believe. http://www.valeoserviceusa.com/products/wiper-systems/600-series
  6. robsanab
    I actually MAY be home for this one, for a change! how long does this cruise usually take?
  7. robsanab
    Several years ago now, I replaced my door cards and vinyl with some of the wooden ones from Aardvark… I put some sort of wood penetrating stain on the back and then also used some very dense closed cell foam (like the secondskin audio’s 1/8” Overkill) in lieu of plastic sheeting. So far so good… with added benefit of sound deadening… even though I sound deadened the entire car quite a bit (and it sounds like a tomb) I believe the door treatment contributes a lot to the quietness. The stuff compresses a bit and with just the right trimming won't adversely affect getting the door clips in.
  8. robsanab
    Ireland Eng has got them... they show just sets so will need to call to get individually... http://www.iemotorsport.com/
  9. robsanab
    I used some round closed cell foam (don't remember diameter) that compressed perfectly in that recess and seals well between body and trim... looks good too... can get it black or grey... grey blends in well, not at all noticeable. Has worked well keeping mud out and cleans easily with water spray.
  10. robsanab
    Oh I see... last time I had the dash pod out to fix my speedo I didn't notice it comes apart to that degree... yes, I can see how that makes a template easier... THANK you!
  11. robsanab
    Me too... better yet, do you have a template? I've been wanting to get some of that adhesive backed veneer and do that myself... I'm not sure how best to actually make one and then cleanly cut it out... suggestions?
  12. robsanab
    Have had my Crane XR-700 w/ their FireBall coil (PS20 I think) for at least 10 years now... not tons of miles, but a daily driver in all conditions... never a problem.
  13. robsanab
    a couple things... first check out sounddeadenershowdown.com (SDS) and his philosophy... things have changed a bit since I wallpapered my car with the asphalt mat/vibration dampener 5 years ago. It worked well and my car is so pleasantly quiet on a long trip. But he is big into using just enough mat to dampen the vibration in the panels that resonate and then layout down some closed cell foam AND THEN using a mass loaded vinyl which does the primary job of blocking sound. specifically to your question on using it on your roof... I did, also put some thick closed cell foam with quality high temp glue... BUT I don't live in high heat. Not all products are the same... I used second skin damplifier which at the time won all the tests for holding up best under high heat... SDS claims his will stick and not turn to too much goo at 500 degrees or something like that. The guy at SDS is great to work with and will give you his recommendation... for the roof I think he recommends just using some 3M insulate product but I could be wrong, check his site for details. You mention fatmat... if you already have that particular product ask him what he thinks... he's familiar with many products since he's tested a lot of them... seems like a straight shooter and won't over sell you.
  14. robsanab
    still excellent and I think your guide is still referenced a lot (and appreciated!)... only what I think he is getting at is what I found out several months ago, Accel isn't making this model with these particular posts any longer... I shopped hi and lo (a lot of stores were advertizing them but didn't actually have any) until I found Miller's Mule... he somehow had managed to find and horde a bunch of them. Note he also has another one that is black but looks exactly like the Accel... didn't ask him the difference, just got the Accel.
  15. robsanab
    Some manufacturers have electronics built in to prevent the under and over charging idiosyncrasies of these… does this battery have that? I don’t see it mentioned on the website. Maybe that’s why this is a comparatively cheap Li for it's fairly high capacity. AGM’s seem to have this similar intolerance to under/over charging only without such violent results. Most of the problems I’ve seen in the forums about these look like misapplications to me… too small capacity for the car. Yes please, post updates periodically. I’ll be looking at this for my EFI conversion to avoid running battery to trunk/seat. Right now I have my eyes set on the Braille B2618 AGM battery (8.1”x3.5”x6.3”, 18lbs, 475CCA, 27AH, RC=35min, $210) which looks like it may allow me to fit the EFI air filter above the battery, as you can see it too is only 3.5” wide. Maybe this Mirai would give me another option minus several more pounds to boot. OT - I have also been researching a battery replacement for my mustang that is getting some mods this month. Since I’m in the market for a battery NOW I have decided on the Braille B3121 (6.6”x5.2”x6.8”, 21lbs, 550CCA, 31AH, RC=75min, $180).
  16. robsanab
    Well for me, I used OEM seals and Pinkerton glass (on a freshly painted car) installed by a professional... I had a bad leak.... wet left foot. I had another shop neatly install sealer between both glass/seal and seal/body to fix it. Seals now even with hard driving rain on the freeway.
  17. robsanab
    ooo yes the sport S's. Those look better installed than on the website for some reason. hmmmm, I may have to reconsider these over the monte carlos. I like the lower back too. But does the seatback lever only flip the seat back forward? Or does it offer infinite recline adjustment AND flip forward? This assumption and the extra price was why I was thinking I'd go with the monte carlo.... but now I'm liking these.
  18. robsanab
    Woody in portland has them in his 02 as well... see his pict here... http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,340603/highlight,/sid,d08ee94e4848ebfd67624fbfefdc661f/ Just talked to Stefan about finally ordering them for my 66 mustang... he is expecting his shipment of monte carlo frames to come in the first week or so of March. He is great to work with... really goes out of his way to make sure you're happy. He has the perfect match for the rosette pattern used in the stock stang seats. Also, since my application is a convertible I don't want the seat back too high... once he gets them in we are going to compare measurements to determine if he will shorten the back any... AND he is going to install seat heaters with switches in the seat!! Point being he's great to work with. I come down to Seattle some... if you're not in the need for them soon maybe we could hook up sometime and you can sit in them... I suspect my car won't be on the road until May (he said he's several weeks out plus I have other upgrades going on).
  19. robsanab
    I am trying to decide between these two… I’m not sure if I am going to go with a gauge or just the controller… both products are now offered with either option. There is a lot of opinion about both of these (and others) on many different forums… much of it goes over my head. It seems as if the Innovate had some issues several years back but they seemed to have been fixed… these past few years the Innovate products have been highly regarded. 1) Is it nice to have a gauge or not really needed? (I don’t have a turbo or anything and I won’t be racing) 2) What has been the most reliable for you folks? I will have be working with an experienced Megasquirt tuner who is willing to work with either one. They say the AEM evidently is requires no calibration, where as the Innovate does. I don’t know if one method is better than the other. As long as it’s reliable and accurate either is fine with me I think. Opinons?
  20. robsanab
    I'll try that... I can see how maybe the rattle I talked about might come from the headrest. But there's got to be more to it... I mean it's creaks when I shift my weight back into the seat or even down into the seat. It's coming from the lower and hinged area of the seat... I just don't know what parts tend to create the noise, if they're just worn or loose. I'll try lubing up what i can see and get to.... maybe I can isolate it.
  21. robsanab
    I have recaro SE’s that creak way too annoyingly now. Has anyone had this issue and is there something to be done about it? It’s difficult to identify the noise when you are sitting in it. The SE’s are the cheaper seats, I wonder if certain things just wear out in them sooner. They are several years old but not a lot of usage since it’s one of two vehicles I drive… I weigh well under 200lbs… so there is nothing that contributes to abnormal wear. The belt below is in good shape. It does seem a little different from the other recaro belts/webbing I’ve seen pictured. It’s one big plastic belt with a bit of fiction to it… there is a bit of noise when the seat cushion is loaded but the majority of the ‘creak’ seems to come from a stressed joint or something. Don’t know how these seats are constructed to imagine what might be rubbing on what. Then in the passenger seat there is an additional rattle at times… maybe from the seat back, because if I recline the seat forward and put my hand on the back it stops… nothing feels loose though. I thought about maybe rubbing some silicon grease between the belt and the cushion to lessen that noise, but like I said there is something else going on too.
  22. robsanab
    great, thanks... I'll do that!
  23. robsanab
    thanks, I figured it out... I had the motor out during the 5sp conversion just a few years ago so I was pretty sure the mounts were OK... my mechanic did the bulk of the work and he is good at noticing such needs. And yes, the PO did the required beefing up of that engine support. Anyway, upon looking at all that closer I noticed a bolt hanging by a thread... it was one of the the driver's side motor mount bracket to engine bolts... and the other mighty loose. Tightened up and all's fine! i love simple. Still the fan sits only about an 1/8 inch from the shroud... and no movement in the shroud mounting to give it more room (ain't taken off the shroud). Also I'll have to check a diagram but there weren't any lockwashers on those two block bolts, should there be?? 17mm about 3/4" long.
  24. robsanab
    I've been hearing a shuttering sound only on hard right turns for a while… has progressively gotten worse to where now just a slight slow turn going into my driveway does it pretty loud. I just figured out it's the fan hitting the shroud! With the engine running I can pull the engine towards the driver's side and there it is. Thing is the engine doesn't shake excessively and it's not a lot of movement to get it to hit. Looking at the fan in relationship to the shroud it is not centered… should it be? Is it possible for the engine to have moved too far to the driver's side? Is the fix still simply new motor mounts? Seems obvious maybe but thought I'd ask before I try buying parts. thanks
  25. robsanab
    Oh I’m willing to accept any reality, it’s just that I don’t know what reality is, hence the question. And you answered it… obviously if your filter is about sitting on the tray then my idea may not work (at least with whatever configuration of intake you have). I just know there is lots of ingenuity out there and figured someone may have come up with a combination of parts that may have created the space needed to keep the battery there. Thanks for your offer… I have the tons of rear seat applications bookmarked, so I’ll likely settle for something like that. Hell or maybe do my own thing and put it in the unused spare wheel well.
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