robsanab

oh sorry, I didn't notice the poll thingy... just read the title.... besides those aren't really 'car movies'... they are RACE car movies... that narrows it down. in that case... I go for Winning with Paul Newman ;-)

GUMBALL RALLY.... not cannonball or whatever it was called with burt renolds and whoever. gumball rally... ABOUT the real cannonball amateur coast to coast 'race'. Filmed in the mid 70's maybe. of course I was (still am) freaky about AC cobras as a teenager... it's got a cobra, ferrari, xke, american muscle, even an el camino... and groovy chicks too. I won't tell you who wins

let's stay on task now... I'm asking about the crossmember. (as an aside- "BS" may be a little harsh... you'd have to admit that alignment vertically and horizontally is pretty critical... they probably just don't want to be responsible for those rare occasions when a car is off due to rear end suspension issues or whatever. Whether they want to sell a shortened driveshaft or not is their prerogative... and obviously their opinion since I think only one other crossmember supplier has the same concern. It is a mass marketed kit made to fit 35 year old cars in various conditions... and most of us do-it-yourselfers just want a strictly bolt-in kit... many may not notice (or know what to look for) if the driveline is too tight and that it can be made up in other ways. I don't know! Hell, why am I defending them? I don't care... i was just thinking about getting their crossmember is all)

wondering if anyone has used this one in particular? I'm familiar with the other options. But I noticed the TEP mount picture and it is different from the others... looks like it bolts up to the existing mounts as well as tabs in the new location. But does it work? any issues with it? Their price is only a few bucks higher than the others. http://www.racetep.com/5speed.html Seems to solve all the issues various people have issues with... like the longevity of a cantilever design and the integrity and look of just bolting new tabs to the floor. getting ready to buy... finally!!

yep one of those. I am not a purist and will likely always have this car... then one of my daughters can have it and put a hydrogen or electric conversion kit in it. seriously, i am no purist... it's fun, reliable, cool looking transportation and keeps one more new car from being built (two if you count my older car that is also modded and I will keep forever... 66 mustang vert) ... and I want Inka! I'm ready to brighten up my life. It will be done as 'right' as possible without it being a rotisserie project. the engine and tranny will be out and all the moldings, trim and seals taken off... it will be fairly thorough... all rusted body work needed will the replaced with metal, etc.

Super PLUS?

thanks for the suggestions... I don't have my car with me and so I found a good color sample from Dave's Aardvark site. It reminded me of how very dark the navy blue is... I think it just may actually look really good. Also, looking for a car picture with this color combination I found these instead (if you're interested)... From a fashion website (note: "sporty"): Navy and Orange When you think of navy, you think classic, demure, and traditional. And when you think of orange, you think dramatic, funky, and sporty. We love wearing the two together for a classically sporty look. Your best bet: Pair navy trousers with a simple orange sweater shell or long-sleeved silk tee; top with a navy blazer for a modern take on a suit. On your feet, go for navy or black oxfords, or, if you're feeling really funky, orange-accented trainers. a survey of cover designer's: Red - orange - blue Based on numerous split tests and feedback from my customers, the absolute combination was formed from red, orange and blue - or, to be more specific: dark blue. The blue color adds the touch of confidence - needed by each of us before we make the buying decision - to the red-orange combination. and finally, as you mentioned golf73, the definition of complimentary colors: "The use of complementary colors is an important aspect of aesthetically pleasing art and graphic design. This also extends to other fields such as contrasting colors in logos and retail display. When placed next to each other, complements make each other appear brighter. On an artistic color wheel, complementary colors are placed opposite one another. Although these artistic complements may not be precise complements under the scientific definition, most artistic color wheels are laid out roughly like the HSV color wheel discussed above." On the HSV color wheel the opposite of orange is blue. So there you have it... sorry for asking the question. Actually no, if it weren't for all the emphatically negative comments on the combination I would not have become so sure about how they will indeed work together! it's just what I want... sporty and funky, yet classic and confident. All the reason's why I drive her! I'm finding it's those subtle contrasts of similar colors, like steve's recent issue, that make for the most hideous color clashes. Rob

some sweet cars... thanks you wouldn't happen to have noticed what kind of mirrors that 02 had, did you? I don't see to many non-stock ones I like, but I think I like those.

I'm going inka on my 75 and i have a worn blue interior (planning to replace carpet and get new cards and vinyl touch up paint for the doors) with new black recaros. I don't care for all black and the fabric on the recaros (SE style) is horrible (soft, velor-like fabric that water stains, picks up everything in it's fibers and holds them, won't even vacuum out easily), so I will likely recover them at some point. Does the navy blue go well with the inka? was that a factory possible combo? I'd like to avoid all black and look like a halloween costume.

I've been thinking about interior combos myself.... It's hard to tell accurately just what shades those colors are in the pictures... but I clearly see the problem. my thoughts... I think the main problem are the seats and the mats... I don't really care for all black interior... the saddle is cool, but since it does have black in the panel and dash it with make the saddle 'pop' more if you have more contrast... consider black seats, front and rear and a solid mat.... some vendors have quite a variety of shades that might complement the carpet... or maybe just those black as well.

I've been thinking about interior combos myself.... It's hard to tell accurately just what shades those colors are in the pictures... but I clearly see the problem. my thoughts... I think the main problem are the seats and the mats... I don't really care for all black interior... the saddle is cool, but since it does have black in the panel and dash it with make the saddle 'pop' more if you have more contrast... consider black seats, front and rear and a solid mat.... some vendors have quite a variety of shades that might complement the carpet... or maybe just those black as well.

blunt, i'd like them... I'll email you. rob

thanks. I went ahead and got them... 7905 on the box, but the plugs were stamped WR8DC. Who knows, maybe they will start stamping them 7905 in the future? Would seem stupid to me. These are made in Brazil not Germany or India... they didn't fall apart upon installation, so we'll see.

the parts guy said he ordered what I asked and they told him 7905 is the new part number... they are super plus. I can't put my full faith in this guy... is this fact? I tried the bosch website and it is pretty much worthless... and a few others, but I can't seem to get a definitive answer. thanks Rob

just searched for this the other day... here's what I found (hope this works... if not search with 'windshield'). http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,300781/highlight,windshield http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,304987/highlight,windshield I haven't found anyone that sells a kit... there are so many various seals... I'm just going to put a list together (with BMW part numbers if possible) and call Blunt or 2002haus for order. Also autohousaz.com has OE stuff for really cheap... it's just not one stop shopping because they don't show everything on their website... but once I get my list I'll try calling them and see if they have the other items as well.

and yet another reason why I love my big bumpers... you never know when something like that will happen!

and yet another reason why I love my big bumpers... you never know when something like that will happen!

give em a call I called earlier this week and he was surprized to hear it wasn't on their website anymore... he said he thought they had all the parts but the hang up is the wiring harness... then he said he didn't know too much about that particular project and that he'd have Jeff call me back... he never called... I'll call them again later, because I've been waiting to find out the details and price. Why don't you call them too... so they know people are interested

who's the latest good guy in Austin... my 18 year old daughter is away from home and needs someone who can check out her Toyota from head to toe and give her an honest assessment. she's in south Austin thanks for your help

i did Quickrete (home depot? or lowes?) and it's been great for two or three years now. Just like painting... all in the prep. my surface was fairly new concrete (about 2 years old) with some typical spills and whatnot by then... just followed instructions and really made sure it was rinsed and dried well.

I'm one of those who actually like the big bumpers... I also like the euros. I may collapse at least the front one which does look a little too out there. Since I drive mine everywhere i like parallel parking without worry of someone denting my chrome ones or my grille. I can park into some very tight spots. The euros, although I prefer the looks, just don't do what bumpers are supposed to do. So, I don't hate the big ones enough to make the change myself. I'm not looking to lighten my car. I like the utility of them. I don't think they are butt ugly as other's do. Hell, i get people stopping me and loving my car ALL the time... with the big bumps, fading paint and the rust.

it's not a right and wrong thing... if you have read all the posts you will notice there are many variables. One person's experience may be different due to various factors as well as environment. That is why CD(I sold it!) has always stressed ALL the other things that need to be looked at as well. THAT BEING SAID... I took in all those considerations... even after having perfectly tuned and adjusted the engine myself and then taking it to a well versed professional BMW mechanic that has owned and raced 2002 for 20years... I am certain ALL the variables have been addressed. I even started with a new carb jetted per the prescription to work with. I also had an old leaky stock jetted carb to compare it to. MY results: It runs very good... not THAT much better than my old carb, but A LOT worse gas mileage. AND IT IS NOT because I'm having so much more fun with it as CD has implied. I'm a very methodical, engineer kind of guy. I know how to evaluate things. So, what I am thinking of doing is trying the Nelson method (thanks for that, i remember reading it long ago but forgot about it) or take this new carb back to stock jetting and play with it from there (thing is I didn't want to play anymore, that's why I went with the CD jetting).... or I may even go with FI for cold starts and other reasons.

I mainly like classic styling and fun driving...

yes! your idea will work. I had a seasoned Bimmer mechanic do mine using new stock cables... somehow he lengthened the threads with some fitting. I'm sorry, i am out of town so can't look at the car to tell you exactly what he did. BUT, you are on the right track. You don't have to cut anything or buy any special cable. It will be a while, but If I can figure out just what he did... I'll post it for everyone's benefit.

the ones from partstrain.com (aka, usautoparts.com) for 40+ bucks. just installed them... two things I'm not sure about... they are kind of hard to describe and I don't think pictures would help... so bare with me... 1) The seat belt end that attaches at the same point along with the retractable device: Originally this end bracket was longer and pivoted freely from behind the retractable device, so as to adjust to the proper position when the seat belt is buckled (so that the belt fabric is not twisted). The new belt's end bracket is much shorter and the mounting hole is smaller so I can't use the original bolt with the shoulder on it, so as to make it pivot properly. For now I put some extra washers between the device and the seat belt end so as not to pinch the seat belt fabric and then positioned the seat belt end so that the belt is in the proper position when buckled and therefore not twisted. 2) The seat belt buckle: The attachment end is made to mount flush one way... but that positions the buckle to where the buckle button is on the INSIDE not on the outside as it should be. It works but doesn't seem right. When installed the other way, you can tell that the end is not flat up against the mounting point on the tunnel. Make sense? So, those that have installed these... what was your experience? what did yall do about these issues? I think mine is installed safely and they work slick, but I'm not totally pleased with either of these issues... would like to fix them if you have suggestions. thanks a bunch in advance Rob