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  1. Look for 3M plastic tape in 1-1/2” width (basically the same as electrical tape). Normal 3/4” electrical tape isn’t wide enough. My tape has lasted over 30 years.
  2. From my memory 40DDHs were made by Solex. FWIW I have an old pair of Weber 40DCOE 88/89 that the Haynes Weber Carburettors book listed as original to a BMW 2000 Alpina (1990cc). The book also lists 40DCOE 84/85 for a BMW 1600 Alpina (1573cc) and 40DCOE 86/87 for a BMW 1800 (`1766cc). Doesn't exactly correspond to BMW model designations tho.
  3. Well gang, my right wiper arm finally wore out with a stripped spindle (1971 BMW 2002). Does any have a used one in good shape or know of a source for a new one (# They are NLA but W&N has them with a total cost of around $280. Or is there a fix--something that's hopefully cheaper than $280? I thought these were available just a couple of years ago. Also have a problem with the wiper arm stopping in mid cycle on the windshield. Is this just a procedure of disconnecting the linkage with the motor pivot and adjusting linkage to the correct position? Thanx for any input, I thought I was done with my restoration but evidently not.
  4. Everyone seems to have problems with door gaskets. I was never satisfied with the fit of the newer design OEM gaskets that BMW came out with about 5 years ago--my doors just wouldn't close without a lot of force. And I had to keep re-gluing them. Recently, I figured that trimming off the inner lip of the gasket that accommodates the pinch-weld allows for a much snugger fit and more surface area for gluing--see pic. The trim is done to the gasket only where it abuts the door (front and back). The pinch-weld must be installed before gluing the weatherstrip on. Obviously this makes separate removal of the pinch-weld impossible, but the only procedure requiring that is headliner replacement. Now the weatherstrip fits tight against the door jam and my doors close a lot easier. The design of this weatherstrip was overdone IMO.
  5. I'm finishing up some final adjustments on my '71 restoration which included the adjustment of the hood latch. I searched the FAQ and numerous other sources but didn't find anything really helpful on the subject. But after thinking thru the procedure, the process is really not that difficult. It's basically three steps: First, adjust the latch torsion bar arms so they are perpendicular (or a little raised) to the apron. This cable adjustment is done with release lever released (not closed as the blue book instructs). Once adjusted, be sure the cable end is tight to the roller--it will catch on the apron if it is not. I have also observed that most hoods have way too much tension when finally adjusted, so arms up a little from parallel is OK. Second, position the angle brackets on the hood (fore to aft) to clear the the arm roller by 2 or 3mm. The bottom edge of the bracket is the Iittle triangular shape in the upper center in the pic--a white background was taped the under the hood for better detail. You need to lower the hood until it's almost closed to see this positioning. Maintain this fore/aft position. Third, adjust only the up/down position of angle brackets for proper latching. This procedure in done interactively while maintaining the correct hood height--simply adjust the up/down position of the plastic block on the angle bracket. I found it easier to keep the angle bracket position parallel to the hood for easier reference. You may need to tweek the keeper brackets (on the apron) a little, but that's it. Good luck.
  6. Bumparoo. Not having good luck finding vent knob spring--doesn't anyone have one?!? Earlier contacts have fizzled out. Will try commercial outlets next.
  7. Just for comparison I thought I would try a URO rear sunroof seal (54-12-9-734-130). It looks like it might be a tad easier to install since it is a little narrower and would fit more flush with the top of the roof. But it is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch too short to allow a full taper around the two side corners--it measures 36-3/4 inches long. Anyone else have the same problem or have other comments on using the URO seal. We all know about URO windshield seals.
  8. Thought about the problem and decided to take bar out and lengthen holes in block for a longer screw. Can use about 3/8" longer bolt which should work.
  9. I set a self-imposed deadline of the end of July to complete my 1971 2002 restoration. The only problem remaining is the adjustment of the torsion bar for the hood. The stopper (J-shaped plate) kept slipping and I inadvertently stripped the threads in the holder block. The holders (part that positions the torsion bar and mounts into the side of the hood) on my car do not match any diagram on Realoem. It is a two-piece assembly with a square aluminum block that has a slot and two threaded holes. What is the chance that anyone has one (or two) of these blocks available? Other option would be to have a machine shop make one out of steel. I am really amazed how much torque the bar generates for operation. Another question is the assembly of the nuts/washers/bolt that mount lever to the tab on the fender. MIne had only two wavy washers/nut with the bolt, but Realoem shows several flat washers. Anyone have some insight into this? Will try to post some pics later. Also have a parts wanted advert for the spring that mounts behind the door panel for the vent control knob. Thanx everyone!
  10. Almost finished with my restoration, but I seem to be missing one spring that goes behind the inner door panel for the vent knob. Part number for reference, altho dealer says this isn't a valid number. It's about 1" in diameter and 1-1/2" long. Can someone help me out? I live in Seattle.
  11. I have also been messing around with my trunk alignment. A gap of about 3/8" or less is a good measure while centering. I aimed for as little gap as possible (1/4" is about the smallest). The critical alignment point is contact of the lid when raised (at the corner of the C pillar about where your red arrows point in the B pic). Then align the top edge of the lid so it is level with the quarter panel and parallel to the trunk opening along the sides. Besides the trunk gasket it is helpful (and necessary) to have the bumper stops installed on each corner of the trunk lid. Do a dry fit and you will see where the critical alignment points are. I didn't use any fasteners for the gasket and it held fine, just don't over do it (with 3M adhesive). Good luck
  12. Flat socket head screws hold hinge to base (unscrew these two), and slot head actually is a post that fastened to the seat back (there should be a circlip next to the large washer to remove. Do NOT break the post off). These fasteners can be a real pain when the weld for the nuts on the interior of the seat pan break loose.
  13. Flex between the fender and the front corner would probably create a crack along the paint seam over time if it was only bolted. Probably why the factory went for a more secure seam of welding/brazing.
  14. IIRC you must insert the inner panel in aluminum track first before installing outer panel.
  15. Wait, wait--you can't elongate holes because of captive nut. Assume bracket is same part number for a '71. Looks like finding used ones are only option as I don't think you'll get much of a response from BMW Classic for fixing problem.
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