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  1. I bought a Walloth & Nesch Rad & have the same issue. I did not read enough threads to realize I'd have an issue with AC, so I have yet to install it. What was involved to modify to use the original hose & put the tabs on for the shroud ? I have plenty of original radiators for core's. Is it possible for shop to use anything off of the original radiators to do the mods ?
  2. Hi faqers, long time no post. I'm sorting out parts to sell & had a parts car that was rusty, I didn't get the title, and decided to part it out. It had tii boxed trailing arms. It has regular 2002 brakes, not tii. I hadn't noticed til today as I'm shuffling parts on the back porch, it has nuts on the half shaft bolts, and not only that, it has a different shape on the CV joint end. So I'm curious about both the flanges not being threaded and being thinner, where it has nuts on the back side, and the shape of the CV joints. Are these just 72 or 71 year differences ? All my other cars were 73 to 76. Thanks !
  3. My first 2002 only had a one to two gallons of gas when I got plowed into by a 70's Monte Carlo with it's big bumpers & long hood. Gas tank got shortened a bit as you can see. It did not leak, did not explode. www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/69147-my-first-love-73-2002-in-its-final-resting-spot-in-1980/ Car was only 7 years old then. His speed was estimated at 60 to 65. I was stopped with my foot on brake. Monte Carlo driver had been drinking.
  4. How to remove lock cylinder without drilling the roll pin out. Tools required: 1/8“ drift punch or pin punch Hammer Flat blade screwdriver OK, I posted long ago about this, I heard of how to do this from a BMW independent mechanic long ago, after I had already drilled out one or two. I have done it once or twice before, but decided to take my time & document it this time with pics. It is much quicker, easier to do, then using a drill, IMO. Other reasons: less mess, no chance of drilling into the lock and ruining it. The lock is not damaged either, it was designed for this to be done this way. Maybe someone with the blue books can verify if it is mentioned there. All I did: 1. Insert key, turn it to fahrt. 2. Line up 1/8“ punch, tap the hammer 1 to 3 times, you want the pin to go in barely 1/8" took me 3 light taps, & I emphasize “light” and only 1/8", no more. The pic that shows the punch through the hole is only to show the 1/8" size fits. Don't go that far with the punch to remove your lock. 3. Take flat blade screwdriver & pry lightly but firmly and pull lightly on key or other side/edge of cylinder, it should come out, with only little resistance in first 1/4“. Note the pic of the lock cylinder once removed, the pin is just flush with the cylinder. I still need to address the issue of the pin, it ends up inside the lock mech. If you are installing a new lock cylinder, this is not an issue. If you want to reuse this lock cylinder, you need to either drill the lock pin out, which should be much easier now that it can be done on a bench, using a drill press and a vice to hold the lock, or at least a vice to hold the lock & a hand drill. There are other ways to remove it, but that is the most obvious. Also the last pic shows where you can find your Key Code sticker if you need to order a factory key. I blacked out my last 2 digits, because I am cool :-)
  5. I'm parting out a car with a 2 year old door seal in very good condition I want to save. I used the 3M black door seal glue on installation. Any tips on how to remove the seal without tearing it ? The glue tends to rip parts of the seal, and it's hard to get a tool under the seal to cut the glue without cutting or tearing the seal.
  6. " Everything looked good from the outside, but the wire was toast on the inside. I removed about two inches from the end of the wire and spliced/soldered in a new piece and a new ring connector. Problem solved. HTH John" This ^^^^^ It also applies to the 3 wires that plug into the back of the alt & also plug into the regulator. Visually may look OK, but can have corrosion or stranded wires breaking under the insulation right behind the terminal. Also make sure the 3 female terminals inside the plug that plug into the back of the alternator are tight. You can wiggle one out & replace just one, if need be. New terminals are the .250 inch variety sold at local hardware stores. The alternator puts out zero without a solid working connection to the regulator.
  7. I sold the 6 foot long one but still have the 5 foot.
  8. So then early or late hoses are compatible with each other ?
  9. Thin flat blade screwdriver (or two) to pry under the thin sheetmetal sleeve that covers the front part. Then push it forward or backward to slide it off to reveal the pins. Then push one of the pins out. May need a small drift punch or small L shaped allen wrench to tap a pin out or one may almost fall out. One is vertical, the other is horizontal. Remove the frontmost pin to remove the whole thing. At the back end, a small allen head screw has to be removed or loosened, then you push the bigger size pivot pin at the back out to either side, one side may have more space. If you have this early style shift rod, consider getting the later style at some point, if you want to eliminate some shifter slop. You'll need a new shift lever too. But if you are trying to improve shifter slop, buy a new shift rod joint and pin at the front when you convert to the newer shift rod, used ones always have wear. If you keep the old setup, replace those 2 plastic top hat looking washer bits at the back if they are worn or loose.
  10. Thanks to all who replied. I forgot I do have a cheapo dial indicator from H freight. I have a few M10's on the back porch, couple have the head pulled, so I may try to do the measurement myself.
  11. I have a set to sell, 12/74 mfr date on car mine were removed from. These are the 2 rubber hoses with fittings to attach to radiator & transmission. One is about 5 foot long, other is about 6 foot long. RealOEM shows for a 76 car: 17221115878 return pipe 9/75 to 7/76. 17221115879 oil pipe 9/75 to 7/76. for a 74 car: 17221114388 hose 5/69 to 10/75 17221114389 hose 5/69 to 10/75 What is the difference, can these late hoses be used on an early car ? Thanks
  12. I have a set from an auto I converted couple years ago. They are still very flexable & in good shape. Call me at four oh five 942 fifty seven sixty six about 12 to 5 CST. I'll take pics tonite & can email pics tomorrow.
  13. OK, I have a regrind cam with unknown specs, is there anyway for me to measure duration & lift at home ? All I have is cheap digital calipers. Could a machine shop do this ? All I can remember & this was from 20 years ago, I was told it was a copy of BMW 300 degree sport cam or 1800 tisa cam, I can't remember what they said. Are these 2 cams different ? He said something about taking a little off the backside, and I think that had to do with making a better idle. They were somewhat vague about it, not sure why. It was a local shop that copied a cam they took to them. It did have a slight lope at idle, pulled like stink over 4K rpm, still had decent low end. I think it’s in the 290 to 300 range, not sure & have a metric mechanic cam I bought used on this forum a while back, and another cam that came with a project car. Would be nice to figure out differences in specs between them. Also, the duration spec on american cams is measured differently than the BMW spec. duration at .050 or something for V8 pushrod engines ? vs what for BMW ?
  14. 20 or so years ago when I was younger & dumber, I had a 292 cam & 32/36, compression was lower with flat tops, but the block had been decked once & the head had been skimmed twice. I was trying to tune the carb mixture & tweak the timing to get the max power out of it over 4K & not really having a clue of how to do it. Ended up burning a hole in an exhaust valve. Only good part was the local BMW independent who sold me the cam & installed it in the head, replaced the burned valve at no charge, and said, "you ran it to lean" So my only advice, invest in a wideband 02 setup, then invest in some jets so you have a better chance of tuning it, without running so lean that you burn a valve. Then later on if you get Dual 40's or a 38/38, you will be able to tweek the carb tuning again with the wideband 02.
  15. Yea, try it & let us know. Someone on here posted about a ford or chevy truck heater valve from a 70's or 80's model long ago. I always thought I'd take a stock 2002 heater valve to the parts store & hope I could get someone to find something similar. Making a small bracket to bolt a non standard valve in place would be only work involved, as long as the hose's fit. May also have to drill the hole in the lever to locate the cable in a different spot to make the valve fully close & open.
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