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ColinK

Turbo
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Everything posted by ColinK

  1. 49. 1. '72 tii (still have) 2. '85 Accord - sold 3. '86 Accord- sold 4. '87 Prelude- sold 5. '88 Accord - sold 6. '90 Accord (I was working for American Honda then) 7. '88 Pathfinder - stolen 8. '88 535i - wrecked. 9. '88 535is - still have, daily driver
  2. when i re-built my rear suspension ~4 years ago, the one dots were NLA. The two and three dots were still in stock. Maybe this changed over the last years.
  3. Do you mean the carpet around the inside of the cabin, the kick panel? Thats how i did it. here's the P/N (Thanks to Curt Ingraham): 51-21-1-6-450-054. I didn't tack weld it but tapped a M6 or a M8 bolt through it. Tight fit to get it in there but as Rodney Dangerfield once said, "it's been so long since I had sex that I get excited when I pull into a tight parking spot"......ta da.....
  4. The motor is a replacement (metric motor), so I am unsure as to what exactly was ever done to the pump. I am thinking it is untouched. I have to check the WOT passes again, but I seem to remember it changing slightly as it went to redline (slightly richer). Yes, based on the plug readings and now the wide-band, it sounds as if it will take me awhile to figure this one out. Agree with Peter. I installed a 292 and had a aux linkage installed on my '72. it's not perfect and I've been planning on installing a WB sensor for final tweaks. I'm not familar with a '74 tii but once you change the cam on tii w/ changing the cone (cam) within the KF, you do risk you A/F ratio being off at some point. You've changed one variable (breathing) and the "dont' touch" screw is not progressive for fuel. The "best" solution would probably be to get your KF re-built to account for the cam. A second solution will be to install an aux linkage and a third solution might be to tune according to your driving style and make some compromises. Good luck on finding you balance. Let us know where you end up.
  5. i'll be back in to on 8/31. Even 9/1 works for me. i'd love to get out for a drive. Let me know as i could probably get a couple of others to join drop me at line at c.kikawa at comcast dot net.
  6. check out Finkbuilt, he did one a couple of years (?) ago?? Good luck
  7. have you checked the fuel pump? When my fuel pump went out it, it the output of the pump decreased significantly but the pump continued to run. The car would run fine for a while, then it would bog down and almost die (due to insufficient gas) and then pick back up. It was an intermintent thing. I can remember the specifics for the PSI/BAR that the pump is supposed to deliver. In the meantime I had gone through the entire fuel system, cleaned the fuel pick up, each of the inline mesh filters and drained/refilled the gas tank. Have you eliminated an ingition issue??
  8. Try all basics before you start with the more complicated items such as the KF. The suddeness of the issue makes me think that it's the fuel filter. When was the last time you changed it??
  9. Great pictures Steve, love the blue and black plates, looks like some long time owners (or those "re-using" old plates).
  10. when i intalled my headers i came up from the bottom and didn't need to unbolt the engine mount. however, after 35 plus years, it wouldn't surprise me if each car is now "slightly" different.
  11. I know the feeling, I'll be working on 32 years this December. congrats Mike!!
  12. Don't give up!! Keep up the faith!! Pour some oil down the pressure sender to prime it.
  13. reply to c.kikawa at comcastdotnet.
  14. My experience has been a learning curve over several years on running a 292 with ~10:1s and a shaved head. I have an aux linkage installed and yes, the range is wider but not perfect. At lower RPMs I’m richer than should be and tuned for the higher end to avoid pinging. I can’t afford a pump re-calibration right now (saving for other things). Yup, mileage is nowhere it used to be….but it sure is fun above 3.5k… Would I do it all over?? Hmmm. Probably not as the stock setup is great fun and the $$$ to benefits is debatable.
  15. My girlfriend calls Phoenix my "Mistress" since I spend all my weekends wrenching. I'm in the same boat as you guys. The weekends are what keeps me going during the week. My wife refers to mine as "my girl friend" for the past 32+ years.
  16. before you go the KF rebuild route, did you: -drain the gas tank and refill with fresh gas? -check and clean the in-tank screen? -check and clean the two screens in the fuel lines (one before the fuel pump and one before the KF)? -replace the fuel lines (use BMW fuel lines only) -replace the gas filter on the radiator mount with the correct part? check your linkages also. Good luck.
  17. Looks Fantastic Bill! Just read the P2 Project Blog. Well done and looks great. Keep up the beautiful work
  18. Bill, It looks like you bypassed the expansion cylinder. Any issues with that???
  19. Just to be clear, if the leak was coolant/water, replacing the o-rings would not have any impact - it will fix a fuel leak. The only place where coolant comes into the KF unit is via the warm up sensor, #9 in the diagram posted by CD. Coolant in the area you descirbed would have migrated from the warm up sensor.
  20. For ignition timing on a tii, use the ball in the tranny housing method - just like all '02s (or use your ear). For a tii, there is a notch in the waterpump pump pulley that is used to align the crank with the KF pump. Match the notch in the pulley (and make sure you #1 cycliner is TDC - pull the valve cover) with the hash mark on on the lower plastic pulley cover. This needs to align with the marks on the toothed KF wheel and a mark inside the housing (remove the upper plastic pulley cover). There is a nut. It may be hidden by the water pump pulley (i can't remmeber if the pulley completely covers up the nut). There are four bolts that hold the water pump pulley in place. If you remove the pulley, make sure you remember the orientation (i seem to remember that you need to remove the pulley and lower plastic pulley cover in order to repalce the toothed KF belt). There is a small notch in the pulley. This is used to align the KF pump with the crank (see above). Buy yourself the McCartny book. Good luck
  21. the aux linkage is designed to compensate for using a different cam. Adjustng the verbotten screw richens the mix across the board. Short of going with a full KF reuild to match a different cam, the aux linkage is a good alternative. this might be the thread you're looking for
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