ColinK

Note sure what you mean by "tube" if you're refering to the the injector (fuel) lines from the KF to the injectors, then see the other post. Keep the connections clean and don't over tighten. No "adjustments" made in the fuel lines. If you're refering to the alunimum runners on a '74, then in most cases i'm not sure why you would replace one. If you have a leak, replace the paper(?) gasket(s). Again, no adjustments made in/by the runners. HTH

Does the CSV always remain on? Remember that depending on the coolant temp, the CSV will continue to inject fuel even after the car has started, up to 10 seconds depending on the coolant temp. Another thing to consider: if your CSV is still mounted on the throttle body it could be that the venturi effect of the throttle body could be sucking gas out of the CSV. You'll need a new CSV. If the timer box is not working, i'd go with getting if fixed/replaced.

Does the CSV always remain on? Remember that depending on the coolant temp, the CSV will continue to inject fuel even after the car has started, up to 10 seconds depending on the coolant temp. Another thing to consider: if your CSV is still mounted on the throttle body it could be that the venturi effect of the throttle body could be sucking gas out of the CSV. You'll need a new CSV. If the timer box is not working, i'd go with getting if fixed/replaced.

The ones i purchased last year needed to be bent. Using heat gun, i gently heated and re-bent the lines. Don't try to make the bend in one go. Maybe they made changes and got the bends right....who knows.

The ones i purchased last year needed to be bent. Using heat gun, i gently heated and re-bent the lines. Don't try to make the bend in one go. Maybe they made changes and got the bends right....who knows.

1) Salt n'pepper carpets 2) Radiator (sexy one of course) 3) Make it the Bay Area Swap n' Show (V@V too far) 4) Continue to dream of a dogleg 5) More school/track time

1) Salt n'pepper carpets 2) Radiator (sexy one of course) 3) Make it the Bay Area Swap n' Show (V@V too far) 4) Continue to dream of a dogleg 5) More school/track time

i'm responsible for the snorkle....

The stock KF is built to match the stock engine cam. Here's an old post showing the KF internals. I elected to make changes with an engine re-build including a 292 Isky cam. With the 292 cam, the increased breathing progressively leans the mixture out. No noticeable change at idle but above 4000 the A/F went to 13ish IIRC. The grub screw only adjusts the overall mixture so that wasn't the solution. Rather than go with a KF re-build (new/reground KF cam), i got a referral for Wes and looked him up. The aux linkage progressively richens the mix to keep the A/F in target. I still need to get some fine tuning done. If I was to do it all over again, I'd probably keep it stock . Othewise, I'd have the KF properly re-built to match the engine cam.

Ray, is that a WB display? If so, who makes it/where did you get it?

Thanks. Yup, the front is pretty easy and straight forward. For the rears, sorry i don't have any pics. My advice is four hands or get a buddy to help you as they can be a real PITA. -clean up the old mounting brackets, remove any +30-year old gunk -clean up the old bolts (or order new ones) and clean out the old threads -big channel pliers or c-clamps -patience and don’t cross thread -beer only when complete and after the road-test. You will be amazed at the difference. Good luck!!

Here you go, sorry as it's kinda blurry. The linkage is the work of Wes Ingram and the cost was quite reasonable. My KF was good and I didn't want to incur the cost of a rebuild. The linkage is actuated by the throttle and progressively engages the warm up lever. It works and has pretty good adjustment capabilities.

Yup. Installed step header and full exhaust earlier this year. See my other post

I've not had a chance to drive it much as I've been busy with other things. In general I like the sound, throaty and subtle. I still need to get a bung welded in for my 02 sensor. The new 22/22 bars really, really made a difference. As far as measureable gains I'll need to put it on a dyno then know for sure. Couple of years ago on a mustang dyno I pulled about 119HP but on a lean mixture. I still need to do some A/F adjustment work. I should have dialed in the A/F first, gotten a clean baseline and then measured the delta with the header/exhaust. The engine is modified. Overebored with a 292 cam and aux linkage for the KF. details here.

Definately a must buy. On a related note, I've been hoping that Duke Video would release a NTSC DVD version of Lap of the Gods. I've seen this on Speed a couple of times and it's an amazing piece of history.

An overnight soak of PB blaster and then using a propane torch to "gently" heat the knuckle also helps. watch out for potential flare up.

My vote has been cast!!

haha i think thats why he is inquiring "i have a client" = jonny so, who is posting the pictures.....

Here's a picture of what I did for mine. I used my existing sides when I removed a Behr a/c unit. For the faceplate I used a sheet of 1/8 plastic with a textured face that I laminated to 3/16 plywood for strength. Oil temp, oil pressure and volts for the dials. Included a standard mount in-dash CD player/radio. Have not mounted any front speakers yet but I won't be cutting any holes in the doors, kick panels or the sides of the console. I should probably first upgrade/replace the rear speakers that are 30 years old....but that's another project. Good luck

Local stealer or from the usual board supporters (hint). Dealers will most likely need to order the part but the board supporters (2002haus, La Jolla, Max to name a few) will most likely have the part ready to ship. P/N 13521259269. Order 2 and keep one in your trunk along with your extra fuel filter, fuel hose…… I'm going from memory as I did this this last summer (in other words, 2x check your manual or McCarthy book). If you're just replacing the belt them make sure you align the same. If you belt broke, then make sure you align the crank first. Removing the radiator and fan gives more room to work. Remove the valve cover and manually turn the crank till #1 TDC aligns via the cam. Check the alignment at the crank. If the PO had removed the alt. pulley he/she may have misaligned. Remove the alt pulley and the plastic covers. Then align the hash mark on the KF pulley and replace the belt. CD has a picture and hopefully he can post. Install the belt and replace everything is reverse order. While you’re at it, replace any belts and hoses you may suspect are past their prime. Is the alt pulley or the toothed belt pulley all cruddy if the toothed belt, are your covers intact? If not order replacements. If you car has/had an A/.C the lower cover is "modifed" (cut oujt) for the A/C belt and will let more dirt in. Don't over tighten during install as they will crack. Gently clean with a brass wire brush. When you remove the alt. pulley, note the orientation. If you don’t, you could misalign the alt. pulley when you re-install. Good luck.

Rather than just topping off.... You should probably investigate the source of the leak.... leaky MC, slave, old lines, loose fittings????

Here's another pice of the header installed. Straight bolt in no fitting or persuading required. It's also much lighter than the stock tii manifold/down pipe combo. The heat shield is bent up but has seince been bent back. Yes, had to fab a piece between the header and center section. If you look at the second picture you can see the non-SS flange from the old downpipe that was fabbed and welded to the header. IE now lists an adapter on their sight so you can get from them also.

Thanks Blunt I'm running an old set of Eibachs (pushing 20 years now). Didn't need to use a BFH or any other "persuader" for clearance - like butter.

Spent the day out in North Bend with fellow FAQer Brian Capp and did some upgrades to my tii. Took a vacation day. Any day wrenching is better than working. First thing, put in IE’s 22/22 sway bar combination. Outstanding work and craftsmanship with the kit. The install took about 1 ½ hours of real work (front and rear). Front was the hollow adjustable 22 piece. Piece of cake as the assembly bolted straight in, no problems. Back bar took some work but with the two of us it was not that bad. Rocking out to Led Zeppelin and a couple of beers made the work easier. Next in was a complete exhaust. As my tii is modified I went for a jet-coated IE step header. Beautiful piece of work that bolted right in. Perfect fit. Picture below shows a dry fitting, everything was aligned for the final tightening. After that was the complete exhaust system. My old one was rotting out. Another great piece of work from IE. All stainless steel with perfect welds and a flawless finish. It also bolted right up and it was almost a shame to install knowing that would get dirty. Needed to get a flange fitting from the back of the header to the main pipes made. If you have a stock downpipe it will bolt right in. Even though it hailed in North Bend the skies cleared on the drive home. Amazing how much differently the car handles, much flatter in the corners. With the new exhaust it’s not much louder but has a throatier sound. Like Blunt, I had a shit eating grin. For my money, the bars are probably one of the best upgrades I've made in years. Cheers!!

Count me also in the second category. After almost 31 years of owning the same car I have no intent of counting $. I do have most receipts stuck in some folder for no other purpose than it's what i always done.