KFunk

Try pulling your tach wire off, and fire it up. Happened to me, and one other guy that gave me a giant snickers bar for solving his problem. A gremlin in the tach wire shorts out the negative signal from the dizzy to the coil, so coil has no idea when to fire right, and can be intermittent. For the proper troubleshooting of this, you can put a 12v Test light on the black negative wire between the dizzy and the coil. It should flash everytime the coil Is told to fire. In my case, it was a dull constant glow until I pulled off tach wire.

Wait... what? Your conclusion is just to leave it as is? Nooooo, I said just get a new mount from a reputable seller. If you bolt it back together as is, that just puts you back to being one harsh clutch drop from having a very bad day. You got very lucky it lasted as long as it did.

I'm with dlacey. Get a 5-speed transmission mount bracket from a reputable seller that's made many of them. I think maybe IE has some good ones, and I got mine from JakeB (don't know if he still makes them). Aardvarc probably has some too. Can a slightly off guibo make it 25K+ miles being stretched that much? I bet it can, especially with that stronger 6-bolt one for the 5-speed. It just takes a real hard clutch drop at the starting line to really tear one apart, but most people don't do that.

Me neither! The only speedometers I've screwed up have been my own.

I'd go IE. I've had mine somewhere around 10 to 12 years on my DCOE 40s, no regulator. I have mine tucked underneath the trunk floor, behind the right rear wheel. Perfectly silent. A clear in-line filter before the carbs. Only real issue I've had is a rock punctured my rubber fuel line once, after which I switched to using stronger EFI rated hoses.

The Carter rotary pump that many people use does claim to have an internal pressure regulating valve: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4601hp/ (that may not be the exact one used for 02s, I just googled one as an example. But it is a popular style used on 02s). I used a carter rotary pump for a while, but found it to be very loud and took up too much trunk space. I've got an airtec pump from IE now mounted under the car, which is incredibly quiet.

Whenever one pops up that's tempting, I usually tip off other people so they can buy it before me. We all like finding great deals on cars, right? We like telling people about great deals. We like to see abandoned cars with potential adopted and brought back to life, right? Well, let someone else do the hard work! Local friends have taken the bait for me many times, and I still see and hear about their progress and pitfalls. If there's not a good friend that really wants something, I post the ad on one of the good car FB groups. There's Rivertown Gearbusters for my semi-local 02ers, Obscure Cars for Sale for most weirdo factory made cars, Unique Cars for Sale 2.0 for weirdo cars in general, and I've got my own Bring a Welder group for all the weirdo mechanical projects that aren't exactly cars or motorcycles or anything useful at all.

Never had one of those on my ‘74, which still has the original block. Transmission hasnt fallen out in past 14 years of ownership. Throw it in neighbor’s pool?

I think I used silicone grease on mine when I initially installed them, and I do recall some annoying squeaks or creaks soon afterward. That was like 2007 or 2008. I haven't noticed any squeaks or creaks in many years, though. I think it just faded away over time as they settled in, or my brain just got used to it, I dunno.

I like the Accel high perf universal wire kits. They're cheap. You can get them in various colors, cut them to whatever length you want, crimp them yourself, and they fit tight on the plugs. If you buy a kit for an 8 cylinder, you have enough to do two sets.

Perfectly soft and sticky like new? Nah. Fine for most purposes though, i’d say. I’d run them without much worry. I’ve got 30 some damn years on my riding mower tires, and 30 some years on the tires on my little street bike (an odd size and not a priority right now). They both run fine and hold air, and not exactly disintegrating as soon as you put weight on them. I just got done changing my timing belt on my landcruiser, which had 80k miles and 15 years (even though they say rubber ages and change it every 6 years). It had some superficial cracks, but the damn thing was strong and not going to fail anytime soon.

I didn't bench bleed a new one, and just used the ole push on the pedal and bled each corner by hand, and it never gave me any problems. That was like 14 years ago.

Do you mean intake vacuum leaks? It's not that hard to find exhaust leaks... and you said intake manifold... Anyways, I've seen a similar procedure for intake leaks with a DIY smoke machine. An empty paint can with some compressed air fittings, and a cap that fits over your intake tube. Heat up some oil in the paint can, push it into intake with the compressed air, see where the smoke comes out. Smoke is a little safer than soap. What I'd do first is starter fluid while the engine is running.... but thats a little unsafe, heh.

Yeah, I've tried it that way too. I can get more steady force if brake is on and shaft is held firm, though. I'm highly skilled at loosening those bolts up so I need all the help I can get, hah. The good thing about tightening them is that its pretty much impossible to break the bolts or threads by overtightening them, and if you did, you could just pop it out and put in another. So, I get shaft firmly in place and a full arm strength on both wrenches.

I'm not a fan of changing the guibo myself, because there are 8 bolts (or 6 if you have 5-speed), and only one or two can be easily accessed at a time with wrenches (not ratchets). So, I have to keep getting out from under the car to roll it back and forth so I can get to more bolts, or jack up the entire rear-end and spin the driveshaft more easily. But then you have to keep setting and releasing the parking brake so you can get a good grip on the bolts without the shaft spinning. It's mostly just annoying and uncomfortable for me.

I had mine loosen a number of times and re-tightened them, and/or swapped bolts. If the guibo looks fine its probably better not to mess with it and screw more stuff up. The guibo only starts shredding itself after you lose a couple bolts. If you don't get bolts super tight, they wiggle out, independent of guibo status. I use red loc-tite and tighten the hell out of them now. Use OEM bolts and OEM locking nuts, they're not nylocks. The OEMs are all metal and special to dig in tight. Nylocks aren't great for a second use, if you have to do that. I usually hit nylocs with a torch to melt it a little for a re-use, but figure it's not quite as good as they were new. And yeah, there's a proper pattern and direction for the bolts, I forget the details. And sure, many cars can get away with using cheapo nylocks barely tightened, and it works fine for years. That's because they may have everything well balanced and aligned perfectly. If stuff isn't quite perfect, those bolts loosen up. I used every method and tool to try to align my driveshaft, but still guibo bolts would get loose if I didn't loc-tite and tighten the holy hell out of them. I eventually remedied my problem by switching to a 5-speed with a better 6 bolt guibo. For your purposes though for the drive, I'd just loc-tite or upgrade hardware as you can, and tighten the holy hell out of each bolt, and check on them periodically.

I’ve actually (quite stupidly) drove for several weeks, or months, and maybe a track day, and at least one autocross, with no oil spray bar at all. Nope, just an open hole there. No oil lights, not even with the sensitive Vdo sensor, no issues. Eventually found the bar sitting around and realized, oops, maybe I needed that? Removed a few head bolts, put bar back on, re-torqued. So yeah, like Toby said, look for your problems elsewhere.

Nothing at all in that blue oval for me, which is why I'm asking. I found a washer that may fit there if I pry the arm and put it in there, but I'm not positive it will do anything, since it will probably just slide in and out with the cylinder. Was wondering if a spring or other thing was necessary there.

That whole outside part on mine is holding together just fine, its actually threaded together. There are little notches to enable you to whack the collar with a screwdriver, so you can loosen or tighten it. On mine, the center part is sliding freely back and forth internally. If it runs into the latch arm, cool, it stops the arm and pops the trunk. If its locked and the arm doesn't hit the latch, then the center part keeps going internally. I circled the center part here, which somehow needs held inside there.

Nah, not gonna buy anything expensive. It still works fine, I just need to hold the cylinder in place while locking or unlocking so it doesn't slide inside all the way. If it does go inny, I can just fish it out with the key. I found one washer in my trunk that I suspect was part of the mechanism that fell out, but not sure if I'm missing anything else. Doesn't seem like that would stop it by itself. It just all fell apart due to a little metal holder tab bending out of the way to let the arm fly off into the trunk, along with whatever else parts it held in there. I really just need a picture or diagram or to see someone else's car of how the cylinder should be assembled. I tried taking a picture of my assembly, but the lighting was terrible, and there's just an empty gap around the center shaft of the assembly, where there are supposed to be parts of some sort, which probably found their way into a crevice of the trunk somewhere.

Can someone tell me how the trunk lock cylinder is assembled, such that when you push the locked button, it doesn't slide all the way internally into the trunk? My lock kinda fell apart and spilled its guts into trunk. The button/cylinder was sliding in and out wherever it wanted. 2x2 wood and hammer trick wouldn't open the trunk itself, but jamming little screwdriver into keyhole somehow managed to pop it open. I found the 90 degree arm that goes between the cylinder and the trunk latch had popped out and was sitting in middle of trunk. I put it back into the end of the cylinder, and everything works for opening and closing it unlocked. But when I lock it, the arm is no longer aimed in such a way to keep it from sliding past the latch arm, and the whole cylinder/button just slides back up inside if you push on it, like an inny instead of an outty belly button. There's gotta be some more parts or a spring or something that prevent it from being an inny, but not sure where they've went.

AutohausAZ / Iwis are the ones that sold me a double-row, with the two tiny circlips (e-clips), and not the giant clip, and Iwis is the manufacturer that said that they didn't recommend trusting it for racing purposes, which of course is a thing I like to do without breaking my timing chain. So, I presume their single row has the same tiny circlips. Although, I still suspect the one recorded timing chain that flung off its tiny circlips just didn't have the clips all the way in the groove. Don't know for certain though, and so I use a continuous chain.

Dude I'm gonna need more than $50 to fix that.

If an M10 with a turbo isn't scary enough, then keep adding more turbo until sufficient. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbtgGTZflHw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sx1gD_OSl00

I've done it too... no issues. I think I even ran a track day with no oil pipe, hah.