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About Dake

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  1. The wiper motor on my '69 has been acting up. Sometimes it will cancel, other times it won't. I removed it to find that the wiring has been damaged where it enters the cylinder. I prefer repairing over replacing, so I'd like to fix it. I'm not even sure what to call the cylinder let alone how to service it. I removed the two screws from the cover and it seems to be attached internally. Before I break something, I thought I'd ask the experts. How does the cover come off? Perhaps more importantly, do you think this is worth fixing?
  2. That's really helpful, thank you. Sounds like the same process I'm using to align my setup. I have on good authority that the PO of my car threw it together overnight for a race the next morning, so I wouldn't be surprised if my car's transmission bracket (which is drilled into the floor) is either mounted in the wrong place or the transmission mount hole is wrong, or both. I've decided to order an IE poly slotted passenger engine mount. I will then modify my transmission mount as necessary.
  3. Well certainly to an extent, and you make a solid point by saying that the angle between the CSB and the transmission will change on a regular basis just from driving around. It's the home position it returns to that's of the biggest concern. The original sources I linked reason that the u-joint should bear the brunt of the home position misalignment by any means necessary. And of course, unless I got lucky (which I rarely do), my badly misaligned guibo took me to multiple states over a 5-year period without a problem.
  4. I don't mean to imply that you're supporting the idea of installing it wrong. Just that it could probably go awhile with a slight misalignment. Emphasis on slight. FWIW, I don't clutch drop my car. A quarter second faster than slow is still slow 💨 If everything I've said so far is true, then I can only conclude that my misaligned guibo lasted over 20,000 miles. I don't want to leave it this way. It's a fact that the ideal driveline should be as close to arrow-straight as possible, but since the PO cut off the 4-speed mounting tabs I only see two ways to fix this: Slot the transmission mount hole and shove the transmission toward the driver footwell. Not only might this vibrate out of place, it puts constant tension on the transmission mount and passenger engine mount Slot the transmission bracket AND either slot the existing passenger mount (not much room for that, not to mention IE rubber mounts are not slotted either) purchase a slotted urethane passenger mount and plan on getting more dental work If nobody has any other ideas, I'm going to do the latter and live with the mystery of how I made it 20k on a guibo with 4mm of inflection.
  5. Don't get me wrong, I tend to be an extremely particular person, some might even say anal. I want this to be as correct as possible. But if I can get this fairly millimetrically accurate I'm probably going to call it good. That's driven by an increasing suspicion that it wasn't right to begin with. I'd be thrilled to realize I'm missing something easy here. This is the first 02 I've rebuilt, after all. But the transmission mount and driver's engine mount are fixed exactly where they were before. That forces the passenger mount into one position regardless of whether or not it's adjustable. Unless tension is applied to the other two. So my thought is that either my transmission bracket is wrong and has always been wrong, in which case I drove tens of thousands of miles on a misaligned guibo and had no problems, or I made some mistake or am missing something obvious.
  6. @KFunk and @jimk, I would tend to agree. I'm going to get as close as possible and call it good. Onto the topic of my engine. It is definitely angled facing roughly 10 degrees toward the front left corner of the car. Thing is, I noticed my passenger engine mount does not have slotted mounting holes. Earlier comments had me expecting slots and I've seen photos like this which appears to show slots. Can I make slots? Should I get a different mount with slots? Also my car has not been crashed. Photo of my engine mount attached. Unbolted and with ears removed.
  7. I did not. It seemed to be in good shape and didn't make any obvious noises. Would you have?
  8. @Drosselhebel thanks for the tips, I'll try loosening the engine mounts. Funny I never came across that tidbit til now and probably overlooked it during reassembly. The transmission tunnel has been generously persuaded by a BFH to make room for the slave cylinder. @Son of Marty as well, I will try it @dlacey thanks for confirming my geometry was correct. As for the bracket being wrong, that's certainly possible, but it was all in place when I got the car, and there's no way I would have gotten 25,000+ miles out of the old guibo (which was already 10 years old before I started driving on it) if the driveline alignment had been severely wrong the whole time.
  9. I know there are many, many, many guibo alignment topics but I haven't seen one with problems quite like mine. My '69 02 was converted to 5 speed by a previous owner. PO made a custom transmission mounting bracket. I drove the car for 25,000+ miles before an unrelated issue took it off the road. I pulled the engine and noticed the guibo was starting to develop some cracks, so I bought a new one. I loosened the rear diff and everything lines up fine lengthwise. Problem is, no matter what I do my guibo will not go flat against the driveshaft flange. The CSB mounting holes are notched. Pushing the CSB as far as possible to the passenger's side helps, but it's not enough. Here are the gaps I'm left with when I do that. The red Y is the driveshaft flange. Facing the engine (see image attached). Visually, the entire engine and transmission are tweaked with the output flange of the transmission cocked toward the passenger's rear side. To see if anything would solve the problem, I put a jack under the transmission and removed the mounting bracket. I found that if one person pushes the transmission up against the driver's side footwell, it's almost enough to even out these gaps. I could drill a new hole in the transmission bracket there but it's still not enough, and that can't be right because the engine mounts would be put under constant tension. Not to mention the transmission would knock against the tunnel. Going by the wisdom found here and here and here and here, I am just not really sure what I am missing. Based on this the guibo itself could be imperfect, but mine lays flat on a table. And I am assuming that the engine mounts can't really be moved in this equation. They are either installed correctly or they aren't - the bolts either go through the holes or they don't. All sources say that all necessary adjustments should happen at the CSB. Sorry to ramble on about this, I'm really at a loss here and my local help options are nil.
  10. @RH002AJ thanks for the detailed graphic. does the cap simply pry off? if so, I'll do that fix. For now, I bent the needle slightly, right where it meets the cap, using a long flathead screwdriver. And that works for now. Thanks to everyone who helped out.
  11. @halboyles - I saw your post from March about the needles! I have an older tachometer with a broken needle. I'll message you about getting a new one! @Conserv - Yup, the date printed on the back of the speedo roughly matches my car's build date. Pretty neat. @'76mintgrün'02 and @mike see images attached. Didn't know it was metal. It snaps right back into place. Maybe heating it and using a flathead to bend it closer to the base would create the correct angle.
  12. I just found this speedometer in a box of parts. I believe it's the original speedometer for my '69 02 and I'd love to reinstall it in the car. Problem is the needle is bent such that it gets caught up on the silver trim somewhere around 50 MPH. A slight nudge and it returns to 0. It almost looks like someone tightened the silver cap too tight and pinched the needle, bending it in the process. I believe the needles on the newer gauges can't be easily disassembled. What about this one? Thought I'd ask before prying and bending things 😀
  13. I'm guessing that's "Propeller shaft or joint disc to gearbox"? I've tried an impact, heat, PB Blaster, and standing on the end of a 4 foot breaker bar, and this thing hasn't budged. And yes the lockring has been removed. It must be Loctited or something.
  14. What's the torque spec on this bad boy? Gudentite?

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