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Dake

Solex
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About Dake

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  1. I'm guessing that's "Propeller shaft or joint disc to gearbox"? I've tried an impact, heat, PB Blaster, and standing on the end of a 4 foot breaker bar, and this thing hasn't budged. And yes the lockring has been removed. It must be Loctited or something.
  2. What's the torque spec on this bad boy? Gudentite?
  3. That worked! Just not as planned. Since that was the last thing holding the cover on it all just fell off when I applied torque to the hex. I take it that when I put this back together I'll just remove the tensioner, reinstall the cover, then reinstall the tensioner. Thanks for the guidance!
  4. That helped, now it's this area. Seems like those pins want to come out with the cover.
  5. Yeah I did, still feels like it's attached though.
  6. Another quick one for you, hopefully. I'm removing my lower timing cover for the first time, to have it repaired, and I've removed everything in the attached diagram (except 5) plus the upper timing cover and the front oil pan bolts, but it won't move. It's not just the gasket holding it on, wiggling and tapping won't move it and it feels like it's attached near the bottom. Will any timing parts come off with the cover? It sure feels like I'm pulling on internal parts. Does the oil pan need to be removed?
  7. jmiller, that is amazing. That's the kind of solution I like: a free one. I'll try that out over the weekend, but at first glance my flywheel doesn't have threaded holes or holes large enough for a substantial bolt (larger than M3 or so). I would use the starter or a screwdriver if I didn't have visions of something breaking and the car getting parked for ten years.
  8. Hi all, first I'd just like to say I've Googled the heck out of this issue and cannot find a clear response. The details are in another thread but the TLDR is I accidentally drilled through the timing chain cover and now I need to remove it. I ordered a Lisle Flywheel Stop from O'Reilly (in black) and its teeth are improperly spaced. I ordered a VW flywheel stop from eBay (in gold, as suggested on an 02 forum) and I see no way it will work because the gap between the flywheel and case is nowhere near wide enough. It's wide enough for the black one, just barely, but again those teeth are not spaced right. This is an E21 transmission. Is there a tool that will get this job done? "Just put the car in top gear and pull the e-brake" Well first, I don't have an e-brake. But I did put the car in 5th and chock both rear wheels. I applied heat and PB. I was literally hanging from a 4 foot breaker bar and nothing happened. "Just use a screwdriver on one of the teeth" I'm not a fan of breaking a tooth off the flywheel, and with my luck that's what would happen. This bolt has probably been attached since before I was born. "Just machine your own tool" I wish I had the resources to do that!
  9. Dake

    Dake

  10. That's good info. I would be sticking with my 32/36 for the time being, assuming it would bolt up to this manifold. My headers are very short and definitely look custom made, so I don't imagine a lot of exhaust theory went into their construction. Who knows how efficient they are. Mike, that's a good bit of history. The seller says they are "Cannon-style". Now I know what that means, and that he implies they aren't "original" so to speak. So far it sounds like with my handmade headers and this mystery manifold I would be putting two unknowns together and hoping for the best.
  11. I have a chance to buy one of these manifolds with a Holley carb attached, and I've never seen one before. My current carb is a Weber 32/36 water choke (with the water choke disabled). The previous owner didn’t know if the engine was stock on the inside and I’ve never looked either, so I assume that it is. I don’t think the Holley would really be better or worse than my Weber, and from what I’ve read I won’t get a lot out of the manifold on a stock cam. I’m not shooting for a particular SCCA class or anything, just a fan of anything strange, rare, or different. Picture is not the exact one for sale. The only links I found about this style of manifold are these. I'm sure there are more if I knew what to call it. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/124749-holley-carb-and-manifold/ http://www.egmcartech.com/parts/BMW-2002-2-BBL-Holley-Intake-Manifold-M10-Rare-VGC_301844271971.html What do you guys know about this manifold and its origins? Would I see any notable difference in performance?
  12. The bolt which secures the alternator rail snapped on my 1972 2002. It snapped in such a way that the shaft was recessed about 1mm, so there was no grabbing it with a vice. I tried to drill the bolt out using left-handed bits and oil. It's hard to see in the pictures but I've gone through the bolt to the point where I can see into the block, and it hasn't budged. It turns out my drilling was a bit off-center which could be part of why the bolt didn't move. Though I've drilled bolts out before, I've never had it not work. I thought I would take a break at this crossroads and ask a few questions. 1. How do I remove what's left without damaging the threads? Can I? 2. What's behind this bolt? Empty space? An oil passage? Did I drill through a wall? (The thought of that makes me sick) 3. What are the effects of metal shavings having entered that space? Will the filter pick them up? Regardless of the outcome, a lesson was learned: use hardened bolts.
  13. Thanks everyone for the advice and pointers. It turned out there was a fray in my braided clutch line which was buckling under pressure, rendering the clutch unusable. That's why it would hold -some- pressure but would never feel right. I ended up buying a new clutch master and slave because the total was under $100 and now the hydraulic clutch parts are the same age. Shout out to CATuned for making me a line with custom length and fittings and delivering it in less than a week.
  14. I tried that first, but no dice. The bore was actually pretty clean to begin with. It's not the original master cylinder, it's marked Schaefer.
  15. I just removed the clutch master cylinder from my 1972 2002, but I don't have access to shop air or a good pressurizer to remove the internals. I used a hand fluid pump and put my thumb over the output hole, that got them pretty close but they're still not reachable with pliers. Is there another way?
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