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I mounted this Hall Sensor 1191400100 JP Group Bremi 16513 FACET Sensor, Zündimpuls 8.2693 VEMO Sensor, Zündimpuls V10-72-1150 BOSCH Reparatursatz, Zündverteiler 1 237 011 076 Volkswagen Golf II (19) 1.0 HZ Volkswagen Golf II (19) 1.3 NZ Volkswagen Jetta II (16) 1.3 NZ Volkswagen Polo Classic (87) 1.3 Volkswagen Polo II (80) 1.0 HZ Volkswagen Polo II (80) 1.0 Sedan AAU into the old ti distibutor (blocked mechanical advance) I removed one of the hall sensor gates so it is a 4-1 setup (or is it a 3-1 setup?). It took some machining to do it nice. I did it twice with different methods I'll dig out some pics.

No. Just annual oil change. Takes 1.5 L Oh and then there is noise of straight cut gears...

What a great story, thanks for sharing! You've found some amazing places!

The car is in SoCal on the coast. Not a lot of days require A/C, so I'll leave that for the next owner. Thanks, Mark

Lol indeed. Yeah. I think I drifted into "in for a penny. in for a pound" mode. I went from aiming for a daily driver to something altogether different, but I'm still aiming to drive it daily. Yes! I think I found a painter! Thanks for asking. Ragtops and Roadsters! Prolly way more than I anticipated spending, but I visited their mechanical shop on Friday and was blessed with a tour by one of their mechanics. They had ~ 15 British, Italian, and German cars and a 1924 Packard in the shop on two floors of their very cool space. I'm hoping to visit their other location where they do the painting this week.

Same! 🙏 Thank you for the advice! All the custom shops seem to be an hour away so it's taking a while to find them. I have a short list of 3 after talking to 17 shops. I'm waiting for call backs and am going to visit 2 of them tomorrow. I could be persuaded to go with PPG, but I'm willing to pay a bit more for Glasurit. I'm determined to have it back on the road this year - unless scheduling dictates it gets painted in the fall. We shall see.

Thans @Mikesmalaga72 I appreciate the encouragement. I've had some busy weekends and seem to have torn something in my shoulder trying to wrench out the rear brake line - laying under the car with arms above head. I'm chipping away, but more slowly. Also, still trying to find an auto body since the guy I'd scheduled crapped out on me.

Keep up the fine work there!

Allright, that's what you've been up to and not telling me! 👍

Very impressive work! Kudos!

You just have to work it off with a screwdriver from below. If it is extra stubborn, you might need to use a little heat.

Well thank you sir! Z's M54 is not for this one. I'm thinking M10 Forced induction atm but we'll see

Unfortunately you aren't close to Cali. Tijuana has good folks to do paint from what I can glean from the conversations. Keep us posted.

Nice! Obviously not your first wiring job.

Nice work! Came to think...if you could machine the manifold flange to a slight angle...it wouldn't take much to clear the booster.

Good work

Thanks so much. Completed this yesterday! All good now!

the alternative is to expand the outer bolster to fill the side gap to the std rear card. its easy to do by shaping spray foam on the shell when recovering the seats. there is enough upholstery in the std pattern to cover the amount of expansion needed and the seats are asymmetric from the factory anyway.

Hi @uai! Thanks for the feedback. I'll look into setting up a shift light-- hadn't thought of that. That fan relay looks really interesting, and sounds like a good idea. I'll be running the LSU 4.2 sensor. From my understanding a camshaft sensor is optional.. am I misinformed? If so I'd be interested to see what your setup looks like. The Classic diagram doesn't indicate that it requires constant 12v power, but it looks like the black does. Using a data logger sounds like a good idea too-- I'll get one ordered. Do you have a link to your build? Thanks! -Spencer

It’s almost more of a public service than a product.😉

interesting. thank you

You bet, glad to help! The post died out b/c the building/design was done. Here is my link in the classifieds, or just PM me.. Happy to answer any questions too to help troubleshoot yours, etc. ~Jason P

Jeez this looks like it was fun.

Thank you! I am not a stickler for OG engine stuff- all of my cars have a story and I’ve found it soothing to lean into that a bit, so the replacement engine wasn’t of concern. I get why it would be for others, though. I borescoped the cylinders when I got the car home and the bores are mint. I also used said bore scope to look behind the intake manifold to make out the numbers “121” on the head casting. Will be getting it running soon!

That is very neat- wild to think all three of them are still around. I have extracted the car, and found all of the bits to make the car functionally complete (mainly thanks to my buddy ole pal Ben). I haven’t touched it yet due to lack of time. It’s at my house, patiently awaiting its turn.

Great road trip Evan, like you say, life's to short not to. What's up with the 02? Apart from the missing slat on your grill - can't believe you've not sorted that out yet after I gave you a replacement last year 🙂 Going to be fixed for the Provence Tour? Fingers crossed. You can have a long chat with Mia about the places you visited, she lived in Norway for a couple of years as a teenager. Nick

I've had really good luck using a harbor freight 8" "portable ventilator" with the 16ft duct sucking air from above where I'm welding. For example, if welding in the trans tunnel place the duct hose on the shifter hole from the inside of the car with the fan close to the door. I always wear a Miller LPR-100 mask under the weld hood when welding on the car or running a grinder, it makes a huge difference. Replacement filters are only $10 and they last quite a while. They have a carbon pre filter option too. As for dealing with the heat, the thinnest long sleeve shirt and pants I can find, drinking lots of ice water(or just crushed ice) to drop your core temp, and a portable 18v fan like the Ryobi/Dewalt/Milwaukee/etc... depending on your battery system. Those fans are relatively small and can be repositioned much easier than something corded.

Again, I can't recommend it these days as they're now in the same price bracket as far better engines. I'd take a K20/24 or F20 engine all day long instead of this. A transverse RHD engine in a LHD car is a dumb amount of work. The 3S-GE upper oil pan clears the stock subframe, besides the obvious work to mount the engine. I made lots and lots of templates before laser cutting all the pieces. The mounts just squeak by the steering box in the bay, and the transmission bellhousing needs a groove put into it to clear the pitman arm. The center steering link needs to be dropped about 2.5-3" lower than stock. Trans crossmember is easy enough to mock up. I used a combination of "C" channel and 1/4" flat stock, welded in with some AKG e36 bushings I already had. The shifter hole must be opened up quite a bit. If you position everything correctly, the long console will still cover everything up. While the shift lever relocation kit may seem minor, you need to realize that it also sits MUCH higher. The linkage is built into the top of the trans, instead of hanging off the back of the shorter 4 speeds the 2002 came with. Depending on how tight you want to fit everything, the tunnel may need some widening, it's a snug fit... but it works. An automatic 2002 would be a much easier to work with fyi.

This is the 5th gen 3S-GE (aka BEAMS) out of the Japanese market Toyota Altezza. (Lexus IS300 in other markets, with a different engine configuration.) Plan is just to keep it N/A with the ITBs for a while, though ideally I would love to supercharge this. The transmission is the same as the Altezza came with stock, a J160 6 speed manual. It used to be a very affordable engine with enough power for a small ~2000 pound car. Their cost has skyrocketed since 2020 and now there's much better choices like the popular Honda F20, or K series engines.

Adjusting differentials is not for amateurs. I would take it to a diff shop and just ask them to check the specs. They are expensive to rebuild so at that point you can decide which way to go.

Rh1. Get them E21 shafts - both (and you’ll have spares). Diff prolly has m10 threads so u need cvjs to match. If you can put 02 cvj on E21 axle then lenght should be ok. I couldn’t - was too tight and i bailed and used shims between diff flange and inner cvj to get lenght right. Rh2. Just make hard lines at the first go? Rh3. Sounds too thight. Might be short lived. Rh4. Open, clean, inspect. Don’t just kill it. Might be good after little service.

0322 is an early tii! Congrats on saving this one.

I made bespoke engine attachment for engine stand. Conventional tranny face fixature does not fly as timing stuff is there. So hot side is only viable option. Some tinkering is needed cuz e/mount points are angled. Test fit and paint.

I have 4,44:1 but it is dedicated race car with semi slicks. On track you really notice the dip in torque. With stock Honda gearbox it's difficult to keep revs above 6k through the track but a race dogbox sure would help. That would fit the rules too unlike all kinds of chargers, but fitting to budget is another issue. S2000 is a rare beast around here so I'm not that sure about finding that tuner.

I think I'm calling the rear wells done, not out of full satisfaction, but out of this is good enough! If something catches my eye later, I suppose I can address prior to paint prep. It appears that I have a fair amount of undercarriage clean up and paint that probably needs to be addressed prior to re installing the springs/shocks. I did a couple of areas to test, mainly to see if I got the right kind of black paint for appearance and toughness. A pic shown for reference. After I few days of curing, I will test to see how well it is on there to gauge whether it will stay through normal paces.! It does appear to be the right finish though. I will likely have a much better idea after spraying the springs. I gave the wells another coat, and judging from the looks, it needed it. I exercised more caution in measuring the 1:1 mix of the Epoxy and getting the sprayer pressure and air flow closer to right. Even after doing that, I did not get the rockers right. So yeah, they will need another coat, in the next day or two. I can rest easier now that the metal is sealed.

OE unit is too compilcated i think. Not sure but i’m afraid it needs to see other car modules in flexray environment in order to function properly. Investication ongoing… Currently leaning towards aftermarket and Haltec looks promising but then gdi injectors needs to go & holes plugged -> port injection.

Non fun tasks pulled me away from my labor of love earlier in the week and finally I was able to return to where I had left off. Since I was not quite sold out yet, I gave the inside shock cavity one more pass with the wire brush. I'm kind a glad that I did, as it does look to have gotten more rust out. Suddenly, I am not able to get decent lighting to get a clear pic of the inside. It takes zooming in for better appreciation, though not terrific, but I believe it may be an improvement from the previous finish. I think I better leave it alone where it stands and move on to the other side. But, before moving on, I have to say that it happened yet again! I got distracted by the wheel arch rust holes staring at me, that have been on the to-do list for some time. Technically it is still part or at least related to the wheel well, so hopefully it's not too far off base from the wheel wells. I hate getting too far off topic. Admittedly, I remained intrigued by the work on the passenger side rocker rust pit experiment, and I felt a strong urge to try it on these rust holes just to see what would happen, but particularly on the arch! So yeah, curiosity nabbed me again. Before and after pics shown for appreciation of the degree of damage. I believe it is actually worse than it appears. I discovered yet again, as I did the first time how challenging this is for a beginner! In the back of my mind, I thought I probably got better at this since the previous hours spent on the rust pits. But no, it did not feel any easier, and if anything, it seemed harder to get the solder to stick and maintain a solid layer of solder, that is to control the sheet metal temperature. In short, these pics represent three to five hours of effort. I think there will be at least two more rounds of filing and solder application. I will be sure to get pics after the next round. Same as before, worst case scenario if I goof up, plan B would be to cut out the bad area and weld a new sheet metal. I will try to be optimistic in anticipation of the next round!

Total baby steps here, in trying to figure proper cuts and what sheet metal needs to go in. After a bit more cleaning and some cutting to get as much a straight line as possible or near a square shape, some progress! It's a bit challenging, due primarily to the wheel arch being so close. I used the Dremel with cutting disks and also the drill with medium cutting disk. The grinder was too bulky due to the size of the disk and large head. Looking at the pictures, I also realized there is more rust inside the hole that needs to be removed. I feel like the area around the hole has good metal surface, such that it will allow for good welds. We shall see! Anyhow, after staring it for a while and looking at the other side for reference, it appears like there may be two layers of sheet metal there. I'm guessing it is between the two layers that it rusted out? As the pictures show, I also found rust between the two layers on top and I had to pry it apart as much as possible to allow access for grinding off and removing the powdery rust and for later treating it.

LOL, I wish I had a F20C. I'm about to go Haltech standalone because of issues with my pedal.

I too am doing an s2000 swap, and am working in wiring now (I've done an f20c swap in a Datsun 510, and have a little experience). Hit me up if you're interested in removing all of the wiring you have in the passenger footwell.

Suggest you pay very close attention to the spot welds on the tops where the nose sits on the inner fenders. Afficianados will be looking at that closely to detect a replacement nose. I would try to replicate the appearance of a factory install exactly - number and locations of spot welds, etc. Also, when I did this years ago we had trouble painting the inside of the nose. Think about how to make the best finish in there you can. Scuff all that nice black factory primer very thoroughly to make sure your new paint adheres and then possibly paint it now before you install it so you have the ability to twist and turn the nose for access. You might even use a brush to get into some of the tight spots. and if its a tii, remove the snorkel now. Good luck with it. David

Yes I am in the process of removing those big brackets right now. Thank you for the info!

Are you going to use the diving board styled US-bumpers? If not, now would be the time to remove those heavy brackets welded on the frame rails. Before welding the front permanently mount it with rivets or screws and test fit all the metal around it. So much easier to make adjustment if needed.

Purchase a bicycle inner tube from Walmart. Cut it so the valve stem section remains. Clamp it to the raw heater core. Dunk the core into a bin or tub of water. Pressurize the tube - it doesn’t take much air for testing. No bubbles- you’re good to go. Tip courtesy of Rob Siegel (Hack Mechanic). Worked fine for my 69?

I'm in process of either refurbing my current harness, and/or building one from scratch. (or both!). I had a hard time finding OE connectors, so I decided to either re-pin some of the factory connectors to hazard/blinker/wiper relays using these (amazon link below) as well as slightly smaller versions that are easier to find. It isn't cheap, but I also found a place that sells small quantities of striped wire in tons of different base/stripe colors. I also decided that in some cases like the headlights and maybe even the 8 pin blinker and wiper connectors I might just cut the connectors off and repin with weathertech or deustch connectors. 18 gauge GXL automotive wire solid striped colors high temp oem | Harley Stripe Automotive Wire - 540 Colors Available - Custom Len 4RCUSTOMSWIRE.COM Red/white Brown/orange Yellow/black Green/red Orange/violet LTgreen/white Tan/black Red/yellow Brown/violet Yellow/white Green/blue Orange/white LTgreen/black Tan/green Red/blue Brown/red Yellow/green Green/orange Orange/black LTgreen/violet Tan/re Amazon.com WWW.AMAZON.COM

Do NOT toss the booster. You can have it sent out for rebuild. Great progress!

That's lots of work done? Hood has such a nice patina that almost shame to paint it ?

Nice write up, but down the storm drain????

I love what you've done so far. From one Canadian to another, "trés bon!". If you're ever in Toronto, bring your welder and give me a hand. (ha)