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    Eugene, OR

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  1. call me 818-203-0639


  2. The car I did it to doesn't have carpet. The console probably won't fit, but if you made a custom console you could probably hide the carpet modifications under the console.
  3. Turbo the M10. You can do it in stages, starting with a megasquirt conversion and the suspension/brake refresh/upgrade if you haven't already. Some of the turbo system layout could be done with the car still drivable, ie pull the exhaust off and mount the turbo/manifold and start the IC/oil line plumbing. If you want to drive the car it's only 30 min to reinstall the exhaust manifold and take the car for a spin. If you don't do clutch dumps and start out with lower boost levels, the driveline will survive until you're ready to cut out the transmission tunnel and install an M30 Getrag 260/rear end upgrade.
  4. That's a really nice shot. Where did you get that gas cap? I like how it appears to sit flush with the body. Worth mentioning on the diff, shipping from the US to Europe isn't that bad. I shipped a e30 glass moonroof to Latvia for $475 a few years ago with shipNEX.com. A differential would probably run in the <$200 range and open differentials are just about free over here.
  5. They're NLA, I bought the wrong ones for my Z and ended up going with the Rabbit Bilstein inserts back in Oct. They were back ordered then as well, but I was able to get a set of four from two distributors.
  6. I placed a few orders with ECS in the past, definitely will never purchase from them or any of their subsidiary companies again. See post 10 https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=428066
  7. Nice collage, especially the two pic two from the left(both my car). When I first bought the car I was indifferent, but it's really grown on me. The color is beautiful in daylight, but kinda ugly under fluorescent lighting. Like others said, don't change it, Agave over tobacco is a great combo on a roundie. I wouldn't paint a square tail car agave, even with a pre-'74 bumper conversion. It needs the aluminum grills, trim, and chrome taillight surrounds.
  8. I replaced my 12" with a 14". It's a generic ebay special and I had to cut the top and bottom tabs off. It barely fit and required a bit of flexing to pop in. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of it installed, but I'll take some in the next day or two and update. Red circles are where the tabs were removed. A small amount of the fan is covered, but not enough to appreciably reduce flow.
  9. This really sucks for all enthusiast forums. Every time I google something and look at a different forum(welding earlier today) it's filled with this p500 stock image bullshit. Bulk download from pb doesn't work. I tried Etsy's suggestion, didn't work for me(but it might be my computer/internet connection). Now on to the tedious process of downloading every single photo individually.
  10. Although it may seem strange, it's entirely possible. Bicycles commonly have the left crank arm fall off if the bolt compressing it to the tapered flange isn't extremely tight and checked occasionally. When pedaling the crank arm can twist or flex a tiny amount and eventually back out the bolt. They're M8 bolts and I frequently tighten them to 80ft/lb or more and re-torque after a few rides. The one I haven't figured out is why square taper cranks with a "square" interface vs a "diamond"(rotated 45 deg, same actual taper) seem to come loose more frequently.
  11. Ok, so what Toby said, stock M20 coil. In your post above it said "Otronics" and Autronics is an aftermarket ECU, just a little confusion due to the typo.
  12. Did you mean Autronics? Do you have a plug and play ECU or are you doing standalone? PnP = M20 coil. Standalone could be anything, but it depends on the ignition system you're using.
  13. I need #7 circled in the pic. I lost the selector I had shortened and somehow only have the late e21 version in my parts stash. The 2002/early e21 version has two equal length legs while the late e21 version has one long and one short. I need the early version with equal length legs.
  14. AVOID PEEL AND SEAL AT ALL COSTS!!! No matter how many people have used it, it's not worth it. It will leach, especially around the transmission tunnel. I just spent 40+ hours removing that shit from the '71. There wasn't much of a smell, but my carpet did get stuck in a number of places and it was ruined when I removed it. Don't waste your time with a cheap product, the money you'll save now will bite you in the ass later when you have to fix something else. If I could go back in time I would have not bought any of it and left the OEM stuff until I came around to spending a few hundred on better materials. I spent a lot of time this past summer reading all of those diyma posts and whatever else I could find. In the end I went with the SDS stuff, IIRC it actually was a bit less expensive than an equivalent ft^2 of dynamat extreme and weight vs damping was so close I'd consider that irrelevant. Or maybe the same damping you'd need less ft^2 of SDS...I don't recall right now. When applying it, don't cover every square inch like people(myself included) used to do. Read that diyma thread linked above and the SDS website. I haven't gotten to doing it in my 02 and likely won't for a good while. I did do the whole shebang to my daily last summer though. --My experience with the full sds product line & install, the "short" version.-- Not a direct comparison obviously, but I wanted to make my '91 volvo 245 a better "daily"/travel vehicle while keeping the interior oem-ish. I ended up going the SDS route and bought the CLD tiles, MLV(ebay), and HMF. I also bought some "EZcool" from http://www.lobucrod.com/. I used that on the sides and ceiling, CLD tiles on the everywhere, HMF on the ceiling + sides, and MLV/decoupling layer on the floor + sides. CLD tiles are for damping vibrations, MLV is for "blocking" noise, and HMF is for absorbing. The EZcool is for heat management and does next to nothing for sound dampening. I found a sheet metal shear(think giant paper cutter) was the best way to cut CLD tiles. Razor blades worked for everything else. It took a long f*cking time to install everything. Like the 02, the door panels sit on the door unlike a modern car which often has space between the metal and plastic interior panels. This made install a huge pain, lots of layout, test fit, cut away, try again... Installing the MLV was a huge pain too. Getting the carpet and seats to fit again after that small change in floor thickness was a battle. In the end, the car is quieter and more bearable in direct sun(ez cool). It would probably stay cooler if the AC worked at all. I drastically changed the stereo at the same time, so I can't use that to compare before/after volume level On the 2002 I'm more concerned with causing rust in the future due to trapping water, especially with it condensing on the sheet metal between the metal and the HMF or ezcool. I used 70ish CLD tiles, 7-8 hmf sheets, and a fair bit of ezcool which came out to 25-30lbs. The mlv was the killer at 70lbs or so. I'd expect 20-25lbs in the 2002 and I'll likely skip the MLV. Would I do it ALL again? No. It was not a big enough difference to make it worth while IMO. Maybe if I could do a side by side test with another 245 and a sound meter it would be noticeable. I would do the CLD tiles all around and maybe the HMF+ezcool on the sides/roof. My doors do make a satisfying thud when I shut them now...
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